GT40 Australia Chassis #64
- Thread starter albanygt40
- Start date
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Go for personal preference, but remember, after its built, its 4x as hard to do. You could do a search for "DRB" and see what a lot of the cars have on them. Then you could pick and choose. If you like the steet, then a lot of extras will be just that. On the track, you may need them. Each of us have our bias. You might get the email addresses of some of the DRB posters(click on their name), send a PM, or get the addresses from Peter that are in your area(if there are any), and get in contact with them by phone or email. Being in or around a GT40 will start the ideas flowing. A lot of my "changes" came after I got mine. Fortunately I was going to disassemble mine anyway. Made the build that much easier.
Bill
Go for personal preference, but remember, after its built, its 4x as hard to do. You could do a search for "DRB" and see what a lot of the cars have on them. Then you could pick and choose. If you like the steet, then a lot of extras will be just that. On the track, you may need them. Each of us have our bias. You might get the email addresses of some of the DRB posters(click on their name), send a PM, or get the addresses from Peter that are in your area(if there are any), and get in contact with them by phone or email. Being in or around a GT40 will start the ideas flowing. A lot of my "changes" came after I got mine. Fortunately I was going to disassemble mine anyway. Made the build that much easier.
Bill
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
It's only personal opinion (so take it for what it may be worth = 0), but get the roll bar installed now - at least the rear hoop part. cost is not significant now and it's a bitch to add in later when the car is finished. Even if you don't intend to track the car (even for "fun" only days) it add stiffness to the chassis.
everything else is to your preference - so enjoy picking from the menu!
It's only personal opinion (so take it for what it may be worth = 0), but get the roll bar installed now - at least the rear hoop part. cost is not significant now and it's a bitch to add in later when the car is finished. Even if you don't intend to track the car (even for "fun" only days) it add stiffness to the chassis.
everything else is to your preference - so enjoy picking from the menu!
Pete McCluskey.
Lifetime Supporter
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Dave S, I agree with Dave H, a roll bar is a must and if you are intending a lot of track time consider a roll cage.
Good luck on your build. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
Dave S, I agree with Dave H, a roll bar is a must and if you are intending a lot of track time consider a roll cage.
Good luck on your build. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Yeah I was thinking 1/2 cage, But wondering about full cage. Looks
a little hard to get into with the full cage. Does any one know if the
cage Pete builds is CAMS approved? I intend to use the car for cruising
but I do enjoy the odd Hillclimb and supersprint.I have wondered about
entering in the Marque series class at Wanneroo raceway for a few
lo-budget races aswell. But not sure if the car qualifies for any CAMS classes.
I was more thinking about floor height. Does anyone on the list race their`
DRB GT40? Counting sleeps till car arrives and if anyone was wondering
I would like to paint the car in the Gulf scheme. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
Yeah I was thinking 1/2 cage, But wondering about full cage. Looks
a little hard to get into with the full cage. Does any one know if the
cage Pete builds is CAMS approved? I intend to use the car for cruising
but I do enjoy the odd Hillclimb and supersprint.I have wondered about
entering in the Marque series class at Wanneroo raceway for a few
lo-budget races aswell. But not sure if the car qualifies for any CAMS classes.
I was more thinking about floor height. Does anyone on the list race their`
DRB GT40? Counting sleeps till car arrives and if anyone was wondering
I would like to paint the car in the Gulf scheme. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Dave
I have one of two cars fitted with Pets's full roll cage. The other is with John_Tiemann in USA. He has posted here in the past.
http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/dosearch...&fromprof=1
My understanding is that the cage itself cannot be certified by CAMS, until the car is finished, then the cage is certified as part of the complete car.
I wanted CAMS certification for mine, but Pete has been able to supply a detailed installation booklet showing the design of the cage, copies of the certifications for the steel used etc, etc, which would be used in evidence when CAMS came to certify the car.
As I understand it, if Pete is building you a turnkey he should be able to get the certification after the car is finished, around the same time as rego.
It is not too difficult to get into as far as I can tell at the moment.
All the best
Lee
Dave
I have one of two cars fitted with Pets's full roll cage. The other is with John_Tiemann in USA. He has posted here in the past.
http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/dosearch...&fromprof=1
My understanding is that the cage itself cannot be certified by CAMS, until the car is finished, then the cage is certified as part of the complete car.
I wanted CAMS certification for mine, but Pete has been able to supply a detailed installation booklet showing the design of the cage, copies of the certifications for the steel used etc, etc, which would be used in evidence when CAMS came to certify the car.
As I understand it, if Pete is building you a turnkey he should be able to get the certification after the car is finished, around the same time as rego.
It is not too difficult to get into as far as I can tell at the moment.
All the best
Lee
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Dave,
When I was in the "bare" stage, I decided I wanted the full cage for the car on several fronts. One is the "look". Nothing looks "badder" than a car with a full cage. It sort of makes a statement without having to explain it. It says I can get on the track if I want to. Two is for "safety of the car". If you have not had a chance to see one of the cars during construction, you won't appreciate the weakness of the roof line at the "A" or is it the "B" pillar. Just above the windscreen out toward the door. Unless they have gone to reinforcing that area of the cars since mine was built, this area is pretty flexible. It is the area most people will, reach for support, while entering or exiting the car. My cage comes right up to that area, and I plan to put a sign there saying "GRAB HERE". At one time I thought about puting a handle on the roll bar, but it would stick ot too far. "Third was the safety of the occupants, namely me. If there is a roll over, you don't have the crumple or crush zones of modern cars. You will be lucky to have two or 3 inches at most before fiberglass meets bone.
Now, those things being said, I have to say that I don't particularly like the roll cage that GT40 Australia is incorporating. It may be due to some sort of regulation or ruling by some governing body, but it looks uncomfortable to get in and out of, and that would tarnish my feelings about getting in the car and driving it. I am a little older than most so I am not as flexable as those my junior. It looks just to race oriented, and not really meant for the street. They probably gain a little head room with the curving of the front cross piece and may very well be why the front support pieces have to be where they are.
What I did was to adapt my cage to the confines of the cabin. In ordre to do that I had to do some timming of the dash and build some support pieces.
As you can see, the cage has to drop down a slight bit due to the curature of the roof line at the rear and front corners. In order for the dash to fit, it has to be trimmed and fitted around the roll bar. Here is an inside shot after painting and you can see there is no obstruction of the door way.
Here is the fitting of the dash. It is cut so that it can be slid in front ways and securely mounted.
If you look closely at the pic you will see a support bracket under the outside piece. It is held in place by a bolt which is countersunk into the dash itself and secured on the bottom. Since I plan to have the dash covered, it will be hidden.
The loose piece will be secured to the framework just outside the area of the roll bar. T
The leather on it and the main piece should just meet up to form a nice seam. This is how it looks from the inside.
Bill
Dave,
When I was in the "bare" stage, I decided I wanted the full cage for the car on several fronts. One is the "look". Nothing looks "badder" than a car with a full cage. It sort of makes a statement without having to explain it. It says I can get on the track if I want to. Two is for "safety of the car". If you have not had a chance to see one of the cars during construction, you won't appreciate the weakness of the roof line at the "A" or is it the "B" pillar. Just above the windscreen out toward the door. Unless they have gone to reinforcing that area of the cars since mine was built, this area is pretty flexible. It is the area most people will, reach for support, while entering or exiting the car. My cage comes right up to that area, and I plan to put a sign there saying "GRAB HERE". At one time I thought about puting a handle on the roll bar, but it would stick ot too far. "Third was the safety of the occupants, namely me. If there is a roll over, you don't have the crumple or crush zones of modern cars. You will be lucky to have two or 3 inches at most before fiberglass meets bone.
Now, those things being said, I have to say that I don't particularly like the roll cage that GT40 Australia is incorporating. It may be due to some sort of regulation or ruling by some governing body, but it looks uncomfortable to get in and out of, and that would tarnish my feelings about getting in the car and driving it. I am a little older than most so I am not as flexable as those my junior. It looks just to race oriented, and not really meant for the street. They probably gain a little head room with the curving of the front cross piece and may very well be why the front support pieces have to be where they are.
What I did was to adapt my cage to the confines of the cabin. In ordre to do that I had to do some timming of the dash and build some support pieces.
As you can see, the cage has to drop down a slight bit due to the curature of the roof line at the rear and front corners. In order for the dash to fit, it has to be trimmed and fitted around the roll bar. Here is an inside shot after painting and you can see there is no obstruction of the door way.
Here is the fitting of the dash. It is cut so that it can be slid in front ways and securely mounted.
If you look closely at the pic you will see a support bracket under the outside piece. It is held in place by a bolt which is countersunk into the dash itself and secured on the bottom. Since I plan to have the dash covered, it will be hidden.
The loose piece will be secured to the framework just outside the area of the roll bar. T
The leather on it and the main piece should just meet up to form a nice seam. This is how it looks from the inside.
Bill
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Dave,
You should be able. Mine was out only because I didn't pay attention while grinding where the old steering support(RHD) was. I wound up imbedding steel into the glass(sparks). So I removed it. The difficult part will be getting the dash back in. I am actually glad the screen is out as it lets you reach into the areas that are difficult at best with it in. I thought at one time about doing the cage outside of the car and then putting it in the car. With the spider in place, it would have been like a weird jig saw puzzle and probably impossible to do. There are companys that will build the cage out of the car and have a system that actually bolts in place to stubs that are welded in place. One company in ALA. that I was considering for the bundle of snakes has that system and it is aproved by all the sanctioning bodies. Then you can put it in and take it out.I believe theirs was also powder coated. I assume your cage will be painted. Did mine at the time of painting to match the car color. If it is put in permanantly with the windscreen in, those parts close to the windscreen will be difficult to paint, and that is the part people will see as they walk up to the car. Make sure to use lots of multi wire connectors so that removing the dash is a simple task. If someone other than Peter puts the cage in, be sure they are experienced. You don't need someone doing their first.
Bill
Dave,
You should be able. Mine was out only because I didn't pay attention while grinding where the old steering support(RHD) was. I wound up imbedding steel into the glass(sparks). So I removed it. The difficult part will be getting the dash back in. I am actually glad the screen is out as it lets you reach into the areas that are difficult at best with it in. I thought at one time about doing the cage outside of the car and then putting it in the car. With the spider in place, it would have been like a weird jig saw puzzle and probably impossible to do. There are companys that will build the cage out of the car and have a system that actually bolts in place to stubs that are welded in place. One company in ALA. that I was considering for the bundle of snakes has that system and it is aproved by all the sanctioning bodies. Then you can put it in and take it out.I believe theirs was also powder coated. I assume your cage will be painted. Did mine at the time of painting to match the car color. If it is put in permanantly with the windscreen in, those parts close to the windscreen will be difficult to paint, and that is the part people will see as they walk up to the car. Make sure to use lots of multi wire connectors so that removing the dash is a simple task. If someone other than Peter puts the cage in, be sure they are experienced. You don't need someone doing their first.
Bill
Re: Chassis #64 due in July
Hi Dave
No worries, you mentioned about doing hillclimbs and CAMS certification. Bill's cage will be easier to get in and out with, but is VERY unlikely (read impossible) to meet CAMS requirements from what I have been told. If you want a cage for your protection on the street, that is one thing. If you want one which will be OK for Motorsport, that is something else. Do you need a CAMS cage for Hillclimbs etc? How did Chris Hatfield race his car? Have a word with Peter and/or Chris about it.
This is one item I would definitely get fitted at chassis stage. If you leave it till later you will have to remove the spider, which is not easy on the DRB and it seems a bit pointless having to weld brackets and cut various things and repaint them when it could all have been done right in the first place. If you don't want FIA/ CAMS spec, then ask Peter to build the cage but to leave out the rear front upright or the door bar or both, but don't forget they are there for a reason. Peter also does a 3 piece dashboard instead of the normal one piece which makes life much easier later as well, rather than modifying or creating your own dash. If you want a CAMS cage start talking to CAMS directly NOW. Don't leave it till later. Get on the phone now, today (OK Monday then). Also talk to Peter.
Don't forget I am in UK, Bill is in US. We have different regulations and different requirements.
All good fun.
Hi Dave
No worries, you mentioned about doing hillclimbs and CAMS certification. Bill's cage will be easier to get in and out with, but is VERY unlikely (read impossible) to meet CAMS requirements from what I have been told. If you want a cage for your protection on the street, that is one thing. If you want one which will be OK for Motorsport, that is something else. Do you need a CAMS cage for Hillclimbs etc? How did Chris Hatfield race his car? Have a word with Peter and/or Chris about it.
This is one item I would definitely get fitted at chassis stage. If you leave it till later you will have to remove the spider, which is not easy on the DRB and it seems a bit pointless having to weld brackets and cut various things and repaint them when it could all have been done right in the first place. If you don't want FIA/ CAMS spec, then ask Peter to build the cage but to leave out the rear front upright or the door bar or both, but don't forget they are there for a reason. Peter also does a 3 piece dashboard instead of the normal one piece which makes life much easier later as well, rather than modifying or creating your own dash. If you want a CAMS cage start talking to CAMS directly NOW. Don't leave it till later. Get on the phone now, today (OK Monday then). Also talk to Peter.
Don't forget I am in UK, Bill is in US. We have different regulations and different requirements.
All good fun.
Hi Lee
I ordered the basic base level kit.
One of the reasons I bought the DRB was the
option of just buying the basics with the option of
adding as much as I wanted. I suppose you choose
your own deluxe version of PR's kit. The hardest part
will be trying to get the car to look anywhere near the
Factory cars. Pete and Bruce's cars are awesome
and they give me confidence that I'm getting a quality kit.
I have decided not to use the car for competition
at the moment so opted for no cage. I've decided
to use an AU Falcon for competition and hill climb
events. If I crash all I have to do is find another
Taxi to get parts from.
I ordered the basic base level kit.
One of the reasons I bought the DRB was the
option of just buying the basics with the option of
adding as much as I wanted. I suppose you choose
your own deluxe version of PR's kit. The hardest part
will be trying to get the car to look anywhere near the
Factory cars. Pete and Bruce's cars are awesome
and they give me confidence that I'm getting a quality kit.
I have decided not to use the car for competition
at the moment so opted for no cage. I've decided
to use an AU Falcon for competition and hill climb
events. If I crash all I have to do is find another
Taxi to get parts from.
Last edited:
Pete McCluskey.
Lifetime Supporter
Congratulations Dave, exciting times ahead. Make sure you have a supply of
cold tinnies for all the "instant experts" who will gather when your new baby arrives.
Have heaps of fun.
cold tinnies for all the "instant experts" who will gather when your new baby arrives.
Have heaps of fun.
