clutch problem

I wonder if any of you guys can help with my clutch problem.
i have a renault 21t gearbox and AP racing clutch mated to a mustang type flywheel. I have only driven about 100 miles. With the engine running I cannot select reverse, makes a horrible grinding noise, this may be due to not enough clutch disengagement. Also all forward gears are not easy either. I have noticed that the initial few inches of the clutch pedal travel does not offer any resistance and this was not present before. With the engine off I noticed a squeeking noise upon depression of the clutch pedal, this noise has always been present.

Another observation I made is that with the engine running the clutch pedal feels notchy but becomes smooth when the engine is off.

Could it a throw out bearing problem?. I just don't know as I am a novice. Your help would be appreciated.
 
Syed,
It's a bit difficult to diagnose without being able to see what happens when you depress the clutch pedal.
OK, it sounds very much as if the clutch is dragging - the synchromesh is allowing you to force the forward gears in, while the lack of synchro on reverse causes the noises. But why are you losing travel?
Does the clutch rod move as soon as you depress the pedal? If so, it's likely to be the disengagement mechanism - requiring removal of the gearbox to investigate further.
If the clutch rod doesn't move immediately, it's more likely a hydraulic-related problem.
I could provide a list of people who might help with the heavy lifting if you'd care to e-mail me.
 
Hi Tony.Thanks for your reply. There is some play in the clutch pedal which does not cause any movement in the slave cylinder rod. However the pedal does not feel as hard as it used to, especially in the initial travel. I have checked the travel of the slave rod,which appears to be normal. Could it be a binding disc?.

I will try adjusting the clutch pedal rod to reduce the free play tomorrow.
 
When you are engaging the clutch, do you get some chatter? If the free play and travel are correct, the throwout bearing to sleeve area is lubed with grease and the sleeve doesnt have any ridges from wear, chances are good that the pressure plate spring is broken. This is all assuming the first 100 miles of driving you say you have done were problem free. If you have had this problem since day 1 and the freeplay is correct, you are having slave travel issues for sure.
 
I had a similar problem and got it resolved by doing a better job of bleeding the slave cylinder. It required removing the slave cylinder from the transaxle housing and rotating it so that the bleed fitting was at the top so that the air in the system could be completely bled out of it. I was surprised how much more air was released and it solved my problem. Good luck.
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Hi Syed,

We experienced a similar thing with a ZF application. All the usual inspection, diagnostics, bleeding (the clutch circiut) head scratching and head banging couldn't figure it out. Expert opinion blamed the parts or combination of parts, skilled experienced and highly respected technicians assembled the drivetrain, took it all apart and put it all back together with the same problem, clutch dragging coming back after only a short distance. I think we got over 1000klm before the second throwout bearing gave up.

The REAL PROBLEM was not discovered until the drivetrain was out for engine rebuild. Upon reassembly of the engine to the transaxle the cause of all my grief was revealed. This could be your answer... unbelievably simple - check the runnout on the input shaft of the transxale to the crankshaft. If you're not concentric with .002" you're going to have the problems you just described. How difficult that is to measure on your parts I do not know, perhaps some of our Brit pals can enlighten on checking the runnout in your application. Good luck my friend.

Cheers
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
It sounds like the problem Ian O'Reilley had!

I seem to remember it was the forks on the throw out bearing being "p1ssed" and the pressure on the bearing being on one side causing the whole lot to heat up and melt the bearing covers.

It was covered in a recent Fortyfication mag if someone would like to throw more light on it. (It was replaced at LM Classic and then again at Spa! by the GT40 Enthusiast club members!

cheers
Ian
 
Syed
This sounds like a on-going problem I have had with my car since I brought it,
First problem was that it had a habit of knocking out spigot bearings, this was cured by
fitting a roller bearing, I think the main shaft was not concentric with the Crank.
Then I had the misfortune to have clutch failure at the 2004 Classic with the thrust
bearing running to hot causing the neoprene to melt and seize the bearing.
Roy Snook to the rescue and a temporary Renault bearing was fitted to get me home.
Obtained a new modified thrust bearing from Chris Cole and fitted it just before our
trip To Spa last year and had the same symptoms as you are getting clutch squeaking
when depressed and just not feeling correct.
After about 200miles pedal became very heavy with the gears hard to select, out came
the box in SPA (thank you boys once again) and it was discovered that the thrust
bearing was not completely disengaging, and the clutch fork not striking the bearing
square, a little bit of grinding cutting and welding has now cured the problem once and
for all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banana.gif
Roll on the 2006 Classic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Thanks guys. Lot of info. to chew over. I have power bled the clutch to make sure that there is on air in the system. I think there is enough movement of the slave pin. I have started the process of removing the gearbox. Hope to have it out tomorow.
 
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