Factory powdercoated chassis

RCR is now able to offer powdercoating of the chassis prior to shipping .
 

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Randy V

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I presume that the chassis will be etched prior to PCing...

I've been giving this a lot of thought since you first mentioned it to me.
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
As said many times before, Sad to cover up something so nice! Fran I'm just surprised that no one asked for one polished :p:

Sandy
 

Randy V

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As said many times before, Sad to cover up something so nice! Fran I'm just surprised that no one asked for one polished :p:

Sandy

Sandy - They have Powder Coat that is a dead wringer for aluminum and even one that is as close to chrome as anything I've ever seen... :)
 

Randy V

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So Ron - Does that mean you're not going to paint the alloy block in your spider?? :)
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
The Alum coats are nice, but I'm not a huge fan of powder coating personally, nothing wrong with it, just not something I wouldn't do. Anodized would be my first choice...after polishing that is :) Not many places can do a tub that big, and trying to deal with tanks and all that, big mess I thought. Don't think I could afford it if I did find a shop that could do it. It looks plenty good as is IMHO.

Sandy
 

Ron Earp

Admin
So Ron - Does that mean you're not going to paint the alloy block in your spider?? :)

Touche, I wish I could afford any ally block!

I'll still take weight where I can get it. My 260Z got a 110 lb weight break in 2007 (was at wrong weight) but I don't know where in the hell I'm going to find 110 lbs on that car. I'm trying hard though, and with about 1/2 hour at the parts store with a scale have managed to lose 9 lbs in a battery, and 3 lbs in a starter.

And I need to get 10lbs out of my fat ass.

R
 

Randy V

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I hear you on the "Putting the car on a diet" thing.. I worked a whole winter on my old American Sedan Camaro and managed to find a total of 35# ((sigh)) It was still 80# overweight and I only weighed 200# at the time (I'm 6'3").. I wish I could afford an alloy block too! :)

On Anodizing - I've been told that anodizing changes the hardness value of the alloy. Sandy - you could polish it with an automotive buffer and a product we use on airplanes called Met-All (You can get it from Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. )
metallpolish.jpg


You might notice that this stuff is probably the best metal polish since Simichrome. Matter of fact you might notice that it's exactly like Simichrome except that a pint tub of it costs half of what a 4oz tube of Simichrome costs.. :)

Use something like ZoopSeal to seal the metal after polishing..

For me - I'm still considering PCing the chassis.
 
Mine will either be polished or painted black. The shop working on my car now did the polish on my kirkham and they didi a great job! Maybe we need a polished one around here!:D
 

Rob

Lifetime Supporter
I stopped by Fran's yesterday and checked out the chassis pictured above.

I too am torn as whether or not the sexy ali should be covered, but this will make the decision for the next chassis that much more difficult. The bare ali is just so damn sexy..... but I must admit, it did look good though.
 
I will be doing a chassis in aluminum colour PC next week...this will give the appearance of the aluminum but be monotone in colour .....looks and protection.
 
Our company is developing a thin coat anti-corrosion system that is designed to protect both aluminum and steel. We are gearing up for automotive OEM and repair to restore (improve on exisiting OEM) corrosion protection. One of the products is great for accessing nooks and hard to reach areas, such as the area on an RCR40 that the lower rear control rod passes through. I would think another perfect fit for this would be the coolant tube tunnel. If interested, I'll let you guys know more as things progress.
 
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