Radiused Holes

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Leon

• Mar 12, 2009

• #1

Hi Guys ....Not shore where to post this, so I will try here first. Does anybody out there know how to get those radius edges on holes on alloy sheet. I guess the the big shops have a machine that punch's them out but i'm talking the the home builder. Short of cutting the hole and then beating the edge over with a hammer and doly which would be very time consuming not to mension how hard it would be not to distort the panel. if anybody has a tool or something that is easly made I would love to see it.

Cheers leon.

 

Fran Hall RCR

GT40s Sponsor

• Mar 12, 2009

• #2

Like these..??
Punch & Flares

 

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Frank Catt

• Mar 12, 2009

• #3

Thanks Fran, been looking for those myself, Frank

 

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EGLITOM

• Mar 12, 2009

• #4

Check here also

punch and flare
Irvan-Smith : Hole Punch/Flare - 6Pc Set [IS1-PNF-6PC] - $525.00

just flare ( predrilled hole)
Irvan-Smith : Hole Flare Set - 9Pc [IS1-HF-9PC] - $250.00

TOM

 

SteveB

• Mar 12, 2009

• #5

Frost Auto Restoration do a range of the punch/rad tools

Hole Flare (1in.)*(F105) - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques=

Steve

 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin

Staff member

Admin

Lifetime Supporter

• Mar 12, 2009

• #6

I've got the Mittler Bros set and one of the Punch-Bead units (works like a champ)... Love that place and could spend my last red cent shopping there..

 

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Leon

• Mar 12, 2009

• #7

Hey Fran, thats just the ticket, and thanks to you other guys as well for such a quick responce. Now that I see how it works, I remember back to my panelbeating days we had one for cutting car antena holes in the mudguards, that was over 30yrs ago so not supprised I had forgotten. Cheers Leon

 

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Phil

• Mar 12, 2009

• #8

Leon:
I use a similar set, but depending on the panel you might acheive the flare with a tapered spud. Center the hole on a thicker block witha larger hole in it, for example 3/4" hole in the panel centered on a 1" hole in the block. Tap the taper in slowly and you can acheive a pretty good result.
This works well with smaller holes up to about 1 1/2".
We used to use this method when welding stainless tubes to sheets in heat exchangers, the change of direction in the hole prevents the sheet from warping, and also strengthens the sheet much like beading does.
Hope this helps
Phil

 

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kiwi ka

• Mar 13, 2009

• #9

Leon
Now for the cheap KIWI alternative, you can buy standard chassis punches at any engineering shop to the size you want then simply turn up a similar tool to put in the lip using the same methode. Just drill the pilot hole, bolt the two parts together and press it out flared or plain.

 

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Leon

• Mar 13, 2009

• #10

Thanks Phill, I had thought about something along those lines, the proper punch sets that Fran showed are the bees knees but with the $NZ at 2 to 1 they are quite expensive and I don't have that many holes to do.

Hi Russel, long time no hear, how is that car going!! I will be in Auckland for a few hours again on my way home on the 27th but I'm coming back up for Easter weekend. Are you going to be around and if you are I would love to catch up and view the beast in the flesh, If you still have my email just drop me a line or come back through the forum. and I like the Kiwi budget hole Idea. Cheers mate.

 

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Cliff Beer

• Mar 13, 2009

• #11

If you have a decent lathe you can make the whole range of flaring dies in an afternoon for about $10.....

 

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Leon

• Mar 13, 2009

• #12

Yes Cliff, I have a Lathe and have thought thats what I will do. I would also like to make up some sought of hand (Lever) operated press punch that would make it quicker and easier. I will look more closely at it when I'm home.