cooling pipe "bead"

I've cut one of my cooling pipes as it was over length. I now need to put a bead on the end to stop the hose blowing off. Any ideas?
Am in the UK, pipe is approx 1.75-2 inch stainless.

Simon
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
Similar to Bud ^

I took the next size up stainless tube then cut and trimmed a .120" wide "collar" to fit the water tube. Welded one at each clamp location. Works great.
 
I've run without beads too, no problems, except once. A few dimples around the tube (from the inside) work as well.
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
I've run for years on several tubes that had no bead what so ever (for the same reason), and the hoses never blew off.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Me too and the stress that one day one would blow off always bothered me. Then, just recently, it happened:furious: While bleeding the system the water got hot and KAPOW, lower hose blew off copper line at engine bulkhead. Just so happen that the bulkhead cover was off and I was in the drivers seat. fortunately the hot spray missed me. That's when I beaded all lines.

Could have been worse, ie over heat in traffic on a hot summer day!!
 
Here is a photo of mine and a bead formed in 1.5" .063 Aluminum tubing:
 

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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
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Lifetime Supporter
Or - you could just drill 4 to 8 #30 (1/8") holes around the circumference of the tube about 1/4" from the end and install pop rivets.. Works well - no leaks since the hose is clamped beyond the rivets.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Or - you could just drill 4 to 8 #30 (1/8") holes around the circumference of the tube about 1/4" from the end and install pop rivets.. Works well - no leaks since the hose is clamped beyond the rivets.

Randy: any problem with using aluminum rivets on a stainless pipe? Issues with dissimilar metals? I was contemplating adding the rivets as you describe, but was concerned about the dissimilar metals, corrosion, and a bit of metal coming off and flowing through the system

On a separte note, I have used double clamps in all critical locations for a bit of added security, a techique used on marine through hulls where a failure could literally sink the boat.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
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Randy: any problem with using aluminum rivets on a stainless pipe? Issues with dissimilar metals? I was contemplating adding the rivets as you describe, but was concerned about the dissimilar metals, corrosion, and a bit of metal coming off and flowing through the system

On a separte note, I have used double clamps in all critical locations for a bit of added security, a techique used on marine through hulls where a failure could literally sink the boat.

Hi Chuck - I've not had any troubles with the dissimilar metal - but then it may be because I always use some quantity of Anti-Freeze with the anti-corrosion additives.. If in doubt, you could always just use Stainless Steel rivets..


Double-Clamping :: Yes when using conventional worm gear hose clamps, this is a great idea..
 
Gentlemen,
I like that roller. Too rich for me though. You got me thinking with the money I spent on the lathe the dies would be easy to make from round stock. I am going to be using aluminium for my tubes and they are only 1". I think I will make something up like a tubing cutter mount the dies and bead the tube. I have lots of scrap steel.
Dave
 
A copy of a PM i sent you a while back. I've used the tool ,and it works perfectly well.

"Hi Simon,

Hope you are well.

I don't know if you are still looking for a beading tool, but a friend of mine gave me a tip. Head to B and Q and in the plumbing section there is a tool by oyster that puts a dimple in the pipe. If you want, I'll send you a piccy of them.

All the best,

Graham "
 
We were talking at work and one of the stockcar boy's said he flares the end of the pipes with an exhaust exspander then makes sure there are no sharp edges or will hammer and dolly a return on the pipe as to eliminate any sharp edges . Ray said he has had good luck with putting a bead made of epoxy on the tubes. If your welding these anyway why not weld the old part back on in the right location ????
 
Hi

THis is a nice little beading tool strong enough for 1,7 mm Alu pipies. It is fairly cheap as long you just have to buy it for one tube size.

ISA-Racing Online Shop - Sickenwerkzeug für Wandstärke 0,9 bis 1,7 mm E1000-Tool

E1000-Tool.jpg


We build a similar tool (Out of tooling steel and a 8mm ball bearing ball)a little more heavy duty for my 38mm dia 1,5 mm wall stainless steel pipes. We clamped the pipes in the lathe and with the lowest gear and a lot of grease it worked very well to create a 2mm high bead all around.

TOM
 
Simon:
I once saw a tool an old plumber had in his box..a home made affair with a small section of what looked like a ball bearing race welded to one jaw, and a small piece of round rod welded to the other jaw. I tried it out and it took some pressure to work, but did the job.
It could be used on tubes without removing them from wherever they were mounted in most cases.
A most ingenious solution and cheap too.
Cheers
Phil
 

Peter Delaney

GT40s Supporter
Like Wally suggested, I had my local exhaust shop put a small flare (about 1mm increased dia) on all the s/s pipes. It took about 2 mins per flare & cost next to nothing.

I found out about this the hard way - during the initial test on a dyno, a bottom hose let go (pre flares). I had no idea how long it took to mop up 18 litres of coolant until I had to do it !!

Hence the flares (and double clamps as noted by CESLAW).

Cheap, easy & effective !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
 
Agree with the small flare idea - works well. If you don't want to go to a whole lot of trouble making a proper flaring too, a ball peen hammer, a big hammer, and a trailer hitch ball (suitably sized, of course) works quite well....

ps. might want to practice technique on a scrap piece first.....
 
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