Electric water pump

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I haven't used one myself, but a couple of friends tried them and they didn't hold up well on the street. Another buddy has one on his 1/4 mile drag car and hasn't had any problems. I plan on running the Craig Davies EWP myself.

Brian
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
I use meziere water pump in 3 of my cars, no problems yet, been 7 years on one of them. They cost more but seems they are worth it, I use the 55 GPM on my 427W.
 

Julian

Lifetime Supporter
IMO 35gpm is marginal on a mid engine car asuming you remote mount. The 55gpm is far more appropriate and I'm in the process of mounting a Meziere 55 gpm to my '40 with the objective of having a flat firewall. My installation will be set up to run with no t-stat and a pwm controller to match pump speed to engine temp.

I researched mechanical pumps and their stated gpm at certain rpm and many are up at 100 gpm at high rpm. An electric pump is rpm independent and although you may benefit at low rpm from higher flow, you can suffer at extended high speed runs, so 55gpm is a lot safer.
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
I have mine hooked to a time off relay, its stays on for 2 minutes after the engine is turned off to take the heat soak out of the engine. The fans on the radiator are active during that time also.
 

Randy V

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55 GPM - Made in USA - Bought from Jegs - Don't remember the brand name unfortunately.
I don't know how well it will work out but I have high hopes..

IMG_1740.jpg


Excuse the "mock up " hoses... :)

IMG_1270-1.jpg
 

Dave Lindemann

Lifetime Supporter
55 GPM - Made in USA - Bought from Jegs - Don't remember the brand name unfortunately.
I don't know how well it will work out but I have high hopes..

IMG_1740.jpg


Excuse the "mock up " hoses... :)

IMG_1270-1.jpg

Randy -

No worries. Just be sure to change them out before you start her up! Nice job on the tubing fabrication. An electric pump seems like a smart way to go - less drain on HP (I know the electric power to run it isn't "free") and the ability to run the pump after shutting down the engine are big positives.

Dave L
 
Randy, Do you have the water pump up by the radiator? Is there a pump on the engine or is this all you use? I would like to see the inlet and out let system on your engine. Very inviative, I like it.
 

Julian

Lifetime Supporter
Apologies to Randy for just jumping in here; the engine side is normally an engine specific blanking plate with AN inlet/outlet, all sold by Meziere.

To save on plumbing when I retrofitted my system I modified a stock mechanical water pump by ripping the impeller and guts out of it and welding over the end to creat a plenum with all the stock hose fittings.

This also solved a lot of other issues that could have occured where my A/C compressor and alternator brackets were all hung off the water pump bolts.
 
Dave L, the block mounted pump is much too long. Remote pump can be placed anywhere. Good job on the fabrication..
I went full circle, and will use a modified LS2 waterpump (inlet/outlet mod's).
 

Randy V

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Staff member
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Apologies to Randy for just jumping in here; the engine side is normally an engine specific blanking plate with AN inlet/outlet, all sold by Meziere.

To save on plumbing when I retrofitted my system I modified a stock mechanical water pump by ripping the impeller and guts out of it and welding over the end to creat a plenum with all the stock hose fittings.

This also solved a lot of other issues that could have occured where my A/C compressor and alternator brackets were all hung off the water pump bolts.

No apologies necessary here... :thumbsup:

--correction to earlier post of mine - this pump is 50 GPH not 55 GPH--

This is how I configured mine - Gutting a stock water pump housing - capped off the end and turned it into a Water Manifold. Also I designed a new and more beefy AC Compressor mount (covered in another thread) that raised the compressor by about an inch so the lower hose would not foul against it..

edit - (Fixing pics here)

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I have had very good success w/Mezier electric pumps, the original set up was 35 g/hr and worked fine with a 450 hp 347, now I am running a 55 g/hr remote pump.
They are designed for street use and seem very reliable.
Dave
 
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Simon,
Here are the outlets for my 351 W.

P2070070.jpg


Basicly just bungs welded to plates. The outlet piece can be purchased from some of the speed shops as they have the holes drilled for the the sensors and heater outlets if you need them. I found that the pump if mounted on the engine, still protruded into the cabin. So I went to the front.

P2070071.jpg


I have a Moroso and it is advertised at 19 GPM. I have not had the car on the road yet but with long run times on the stand with some higher sustained revs, it held the temps town. Time will tell on it when I get the alternator cured.

Bill
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Bill, I would like to take block temperature readings with different volume pumps. I would bet that a lower volume pump extracts as much heat as a higher volume. After all its the time the heat is absorbed into the coolant and extracted that counts isn't it? The slower the water flows the more the heat is extracted? To a point. Mike Trusty and I have discussed this to some length, both of us take the chicken way out and buy the biggest you can get. I think the key to keeping your engine cool is the bypass thermostat which Randy has pictures of, by the way thats some nice aluminum welding Randy, how did you keep that bypass thermostat from blowing up? I use the bypass thermostat in all my cars, Mike convinced me to use this type system in my Countach almost 20 years ago and after it worked so well its been put into every car I own. My GT40 has never gotten hot, even in 100 degree weather driving at speed (110-120mph) for 30 minutes. I think the bypass is the way to go.
 
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