A damn good flogging! Maybe too good.

I hadn't driven #82 in a few weeks and because Florida blessed us with a nice cool evening I thought we won't get more evenings like this for a while so lets go for a drive. And go I did. After letting #82 warm to proper operating temps I enjoyed a nice drive. Living out in the country as I do affords me the opportunity to really let me stretch the cars legs. So sitting in top and being about two miles from home I dropped down two gears and pushed the fun pedal and got to about 120-125mph and left her there for about a mile maybe a wee bit more. I then dropped down two gears and took a quick right and then a sweeping left hander and thought that was bloody good fun. OOPS. The temp gauage was beginning to creep past my comfort zone and the cars too so I manually switched on the fans (which normally come on once the temp reaches a certain temp but didn't this time) and I could smell fuel.....thankfully I was only about a 1/2 mile from the house and so I pulled into the garage. I left the fans on and quickly opened up the rear hatch. I observed water coming from the overflow tank at the rear of the car and while walking around to the front of the car I noted a liquid coming from behind the passenger side front wheel. It was fuel. The rear puddle was water.
Is this a thermostat issue with the water and a tank vent problem for the fuel? Only the passenger side tank overflowed. The driver side was fine. This is the 2nd time I've had a problem with the pass. side tank.
Any ideas why this would happen? I'm not sure what the thermostat is rated at. I did not observe any water leaking from any other source other than that mentioned. I'm sure no serious damage was done to the engine or car but it did leave me more than a bit concerned.

Sounds like the braking for the "quick" right hander caused the passenger side vent to overflow. Is the vent outlet on the front of the tank? Add roll over check valves to the vent lines. They will let the air out but not the fuel.

Read up on air bleeds on the rear of the intake manifold and on both sides of the radiator. These work. I have seen black and white pictures of an orginal car parked on the grid somewhere back in the day with the self bleed system on it.

Puking out water usually comes from high revs causing the air to be pulled our of the water by the water pump empeller (cavitation). The self bleed systems cure this by allowing the traped air in the high points of the system to return to the header tank.

There are a lot of issues with rear engine cars and front mounted radiators. In the end you will just need to solve all of the air in the water problems one at a time. I ended up not running a thermostat and using a alum plate with a 5/8 hole in it instead. This helped some. I think that the thremostat causes a turbulant spot in the system and again pulls air out of the water. The other thing that will trap air is the heater. Make sure you bleed it when you bleed the rest of the system. I took mine out. I don't need one in California anyway.

The intake on the nose of the car must be sealed. All the air going in must be forced through the radiator. Make whatever modifications to the inlet to do this. If your car just dumps the exaust air into the nose area then duct the exit of the radiator so that the exaust air flows cleanly out of the nostrils.

All this stuff together will make the car heat proof.

I have gotten my stock GTD radiator to cool my car well enough that I can run 30 min track sessions on a 105F day and keep the water temp under 210F.

Many thanks Howard for your detailed and very informative advise. I'll certainly give those a try. Happy motoring and continued good luck in your SLC build.