Rear Clip Support Struts-Cables
- Thread starter muttsjet
- Start date
I have a cable kit that uses steel cables that "self-wind" into a 3" coil when the lid is closed. This kit only works with a Mk I as the Mk II deck fouls on the rear cradle before it goes "over-center".
The Mk II can use the gas strut kit Dennis Olthoff had made as can the Mk I. My cable kit does not assit the deck lid in opening, it only prevents the Mk I lid from going over center and falling off/crashing to the ground, other assorted bad outcomes.
The advantage to my cable kit as opposed to the original type cables is they are self storing and cannot become fouled in the halfshafts, etc.
The Mk II can use the gas strut kit Dennis Olthoff had made as can the Mk I. My cable kit does not assit the deck lid in opening, it only prevents the Mk I lid from going over center and falling off/crashing to the ground, other assorted bad outcomes.
The advantage to my cable kit as opposed to the original type cables is they are self storing and cannot become fouled in the halfshafts, etc.
Dimi Terleckyj
Lifetime Supporter
Hi
I fitted gas struts to my rear clip which not only holds the rear clip in the required open position but also helps to take the weight when opening it up and does not allow the wind and such to let the clip fall closed on it's own causing damage.
Dimi
I fitted gas struts to my rear clip which not only holds the rear clip in the required open position but also helps to take the weight when opening it up and does not allow the wind and such to let the clip fall closed on it's own causing damage.
Dimi
Mark,
I too use the gas struts. I got mine off Ebay. The seller let me pick the length and the weight to be lifted by the strut. I chose a weight that was less than the weight of the clip and am able to raise the clip with one hand. You will find that the attachment points is the hardest part. You have to decide where you want the clip to stop, which should be less than vertical so there is no stress on the strut mounting points.
Bill
I too use the gas struts. I got mine off Ebay. The seller let me pick the length and the weight to be lifted by the strut. I chose a weight that was less than the weight of the clip and am able to raise the clip with one hand. You will find that the attachment points is the hardest part. You have to decide where you want the clip to stop, which should be less than vertical so there is no stress on the strut mounting points.
Bill
Thanx for the responses. Looks like McMaster carries all the necessary hardware. Would be greatly appreciated if someone with a MKII (MKI if inside of clamshell is similar) could post some pics of installed struts. Need to determine how best to attach the two ends of the strut. Assume I need to fabricate a plate with 4 bolts to attach to the inside fiberglass wall (wheel well) to share load of upper ball bracket where strut attaches. And also assume lower attachment uses ball bracket with a couple of bolts thru frame near clip attach point.
Thanx
Mark
Thanx
Mark
Mark,
I am sure pics would help, but you have to remember that the length of the gas shock will alter the pickup points. The short length of the compressed shock will also. It is a geometry question. I solved my pickup points this way.
I used a rope to suspend the rear clip and held it at the point of which I wanted it to stop. I was able to find the balance point where it would fall over backwards and went just in front of that point. That is where the shock will be fully extended and there isn't enough weight to cause it to close on its own. It takes a little effort to pull it forward and start to close. I used a trial and error approach to find the two lengths and get them to match up. I marked the extended length first with a felt tip pen, where I thought those two points should be. I then closed the clip and measured the distance of the two points to see if that was close to the compressed length of the shock. If it isn't you can begin to see where the mounting points should be located by moving the attachment point of the shock up and down the frame. Since you are in front of the pivot point of the rear clip, the more you move away from the pivot point, the distance of full compression will decrease. Then it is a matter of getting the length of your strut to match up the two lengths(compression and extension).
Now you have to assume you have some hardware on the rear clip to attach the shock to. You may have to bond some steel plate to the clip to mount the shock to. My DRB has the hardware already mounted, so I just had to find the two points. Here are the mounting points. The bolt at the top of the first pic is the pivot point for my clip.
I hope this explanation helps.
Bill
I am sure pics would help, but you have to remember that the length of the gas shock will alter the pickup points. The short length of the compressed shock will also. It is a geometry question. I solved my pickup points this way.
I used a rope to suspend the rear clip and held it at the point of which I wanted it to stop. I was able to find the balance point where it would fall over backwards and went just in front of that point. That is where the shock will be fully extended and there isn't enough weight to cause it to close on its own. It takes a little effort to pull it forward and start to close. I used a trial and error approach to find the two lengths and get them to match up. I marked the extended length first with a felt tip pen, where I thought those two points should be. I then closed the clip and measured the distance of the two points to see if that was close to the compressed length of the shock. If it isn't you can begin to see where the mounting points should be located by moving the attachment point of the shock up and down the frame. Since you are in front of the pivot point of the rear clip, the more you move away from the pivot point, the distance of full compression will decrease. Then it is a matter of getting the length of your strut to match up the two lengths(compression and extension).
Now you have to assume you have some hardware on the rear clip to attach the shock to. You may have to bond some steel plate to the clip to mount the shock to. My DRB has the hardware already mounted, so I just had to find the two points. Here are the mounting points. The bolt at the top of the first pic is the pivot point for my clip.
I hope this explanation helps.
Bill
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