FE Hoop Fit

Got FE/ZF combo into car as one piece.

For those who have installed FE into MKII, with upper cross member installed with the two ZF upper supports in place, bellhousing (and weight of motor/ZF) snuggly rests on leading edge of lower cross member hoop/chassis.

Any techniques for getting lower hoop clearance from bellhousing other than pounding lower leading edge of cross member down supported underneath. Motor can't be moved further forward.

Thanx
Mark

Mark,

Do you have the correct upper cross member?

Big block cross member is different (not same as used for small block) lifts the engine/transaxle higher.

Steve C

Yes, sent to Dennis O and he modified.

Mark,

Doesn't make sense.

I Have FE and ZF with plenty of space between the bellhousing and lower cross member (see pics in the SPF forum).

Grady with P2124 has same configuration and no space issue either.

If you look at pics of P2125 in the SPF forum note that I do have a specially designed and cast ZF top cover that looks like a T44 with mounting ears located such that the usually used spacers are not used but same F to R engine location as Grady's P2124.

Are you using the recommended bellhousing (As I recall Grady and I have "Quick Time").

Maybe Grady can chime in.

Steve C P2125

I am swapping the chassis side motor mounts around. It appears I can get an extra 3/8-1/2" of forward eninge position which will should increase clearance at the bellhousing since its rubbing on the angled portion of the bellhousing.

steve c said:

I Have FE and ZF with plenty of space between the bellhousing and lower cross member (see pics in the SPF forum).

Click to expand...

Steve -- It might illuminate the situation to know two things about the forward edge of the lower part of your hoop:

1. How much clearance is there between it and the bell housing?
2. Was it modified in any way (i.e. is it still exactly trapezoidal in cross section and are its spot-welded flanges still straight and horizontal).

When I visited Olthoff last year Paul made it very clear that I should expect to make modifications in this area anywhere from rolling the forward flange down to major hammering and beating. As it happens, when I last had my block and transaxle in I had about 1/16" clearance with no modification. Mark apparently has somewhat less. So the drift of my questioning is to to find out what if anything Paul did in order to get you all that clearance.

I also know from Paul and some of his pictures that there is some significant variability here: for example, consider the attached picture from him showing a car (not P2125; frame's black) that required significant notching to the frame to clear the rearmost exhaust headers. Mine required no such modification (by a significant margin), so we're talking about differences of an inch or more. I don't know how to account for those unless there are some big differences in our various motor mounts.



Also attached is one of your pictures of your car. It does suggest a large amount of clearance but you can't really tell without sighting along the forward edge of the lower hoop. I think you'd have to get under the car to take that picture.

Alan,

Just back in town.

I'll take a look tomorrow and report.

Steve C

Mark/Alan,

Piqued my curiosity so went over to the garage.

Have the car up on blocks doing winter PM's and large 24" block right under the lower crossmember so can't get a pic but, I was able to put my fingers between the bellhousing and the crossmember so maybe 3/8 at the lowest point.

Looks like Paul gently rolled the front lip (no damage to paint and a smooth roll).

One other thing: My fire wall water pump pulley bump out has been modified by addition of a larger/deeper bulge so perhaps my engine is further foreward but I still have clearance to remove the distributor.

Also my ZF cover is a custom design casting putting ears more forward than the usual ZF (looks like the T44 and has ears like the T44 as well that sit up against the upper crossmember). Cant remember the dims I used when designing it but think I used the SPF bushing as a referance for how much to move forward and I may have put the holes in the ears such that it allows the ZF to sit a little higher because Dennis had to move the rear sway bar mounting (see my pics in SPF forum).

Really need Grady to measure his as for his the standard ZF cover was used and should be more like yours?

Steve C

Any help?

SteveC