Ball Joints and Boots

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
From another thread:

Have replaced the ball joint boots (were torn because as originally received ball joints were not or not adequately greased and the boots tore due to turning forces with no lube to the rubber.

Once had the ball joints out (no easy task) I machined a hex in bottom of the ball joint to allow easy removal and install next time> If anyone wants more info I will elaborate.

Also good idea to install a zerk fitting in the threaded nut that seals the ball in lower control arm as it allows easy greasing.

Steve --

I would definitely like to know about your modification.

Also, what did you replace the ball joint boots with? Did you just get the ball joint kits from SPF? Via leads from Grady I found some possible replacements from Energy Suspensions but have not tried them.

BTW one of mine has split at the fold line either from not enough grease to keep the material from folding that sharply, or simply from rotting with age. Yet another issue I haven't gotten to yet....
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Alan,

Yup, boots will tear/sever along the parting line without grease as the design of the boot puts a reinforced collar into a circular slot in the upright and w/o lube it grips and tears the boot.

If and when you take the assembly apart you will see that the SPF boot is "unique", no aftermarket or OEM boot is like it. Untill you take the assembly apart you might think it's not a good desigh as the center hole is wide but, you will see that it has a reinforced collar that seats in the upright better than an aftermarket will)

I had an extra set of SPF boots thast I sent Grady that he had Olthoff install.

Here is how I did the disassembly, retrofit and reassembly:

Do all the obvious things like remove wheel, remove and tie up brake caliper (put space tween pads to maintain spacing ect).

Then with a floor jack under the lower arm loosen the ball joint nut. With some space afforded by loosening the nut you can pop the presss fit taper by putting a chisle between the top of the ball joint shank and the upright housing and with a tap it will unseat.

Now comes the fun part:

Need to get a thin nose vice grip and after tearing away the old boot hold the shank on the straight (non tapered) section while turning the nut off. Lower the floor jack and the assembly will part.

Remove bottom bolt cap from lower arm (while it is off install a zerk fitting).

Remove ball joint (there will be a lower and upper nylon seat that comes out with the ball joint (new ones are in the kit with new boots).

Now comes the trick: Machine a hex in bottom center of the ball joint! This will allow you to hold/turn the ball joint while installing the nut and allow you to pull the ball joint into the upright taper (without the hex to hold it the ball joint will rotate while you try to seat it because of the nylock nut).

Good idea to check clearances before you disassemble as it's a good idea to remove a little length of the threaded end of the ball joint and get new nyloc nuts too.

before reassembly grease up the ball joint and seats (don't forget to install the boot) and when complete and the bottom bolt installed fill the cavity with grease via the new zerk.

I seal the lower bolt with the zerk with blue locktite (keeps the grease from oozing by the threads)

It's a feel thing as to how much to tighten the nut; just turn the wheells and tighten until you can tell the ball is seated in the nylon seats and there is a little friction.

That's it

Steve P2125

Replace with new SPF boot (get from Lance or Barry).
 
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Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Nice! Thanks.

I was afraid the reason we were having trouble with the boots was some issue with the ball joint boots themselves (age, design, material, etc.), thus providing a motive for an alternative. If the one in the kit works that's great news, because the kit's not particularly expensive (~$20 as I recall).
 
Alan,
I removed the Zerk from the ball joint and replaced it with a thread matching plug. Reason is you can break the Zerk off and created another problem. Easy to switch back when you grease the joint.

Grady
 
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