Leaking brake/clutch fluid

Mike

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 16, 2012

• #1

Awhile back I had mentioned my displeasure in what appeared to be some lifting of the paint and at the time questioned paint prep. Now that I am a little deeper into the car I have found what is causing the paint to lift on the front left part of the chassis. It appears both brake and clutch reservoirs are leaking around the caps or through the vents. Does not appear to be any o-ring sealing just plain old threads. Reservoir levels don't seem overly high. Is this a known issue and are there better caps or ways to seal? I'm going to have to scrape a lot of paint off the chassis, clean everything thoroughly, and repaint the affected area. Not particularly pleased :blank:

 

F

Kevin L

• Jan 16, 2012

• #2

Michael,

I am in the process of retrofitting all new clutch and brake canisters with plastic ones from Pegasus racing. Steve detailed how he replaced the rubber lines and canisters, I am following his directions.

The only reason I mention this is that even if you fix the o-ring, these metal canisters have a tendency to rust; you might find it better to fix everything at once.

Kevin

 

S

DaveM

• Jan 16, 2012

• #3

Michael,
Ditto on replacing the reservoirs with plastic ones. I moved both mine into the forward compartment so they are accessible without removing the nose. Some original 40 racecars did this too.

 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 16, 2012

• #4

Details please, this sounds like the route I would like to take. Thanks!

 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor

Supporter

• Jan 16, 2012

• #5

See post 73 on this thread: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/25354-upgrades-options-mods-p2125-4.html

 

F

Kevin L

• Jan 16, 2012

• #6

SwiftDB4 said:

Michael,
Ditto on replacing the reservoirs with plastic ones. I moved both mine into the forward compartment so they are accessible without removing the nose. Some original 40 racecars did this too.

Click to expand...

Dave, can you post pictures of how you mounted the plastic canisters?

 

C

Chet Schwer

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 16, 2012

• #7

Do a search on Brake and Clutch Reserviors or just posts with the word reservior in it.

 

S

DaveM

• Jan 16, 2012

• #8

These are the relocated reservoirs. I haven't replaced the steel clutch one with a plastic one yet, but have that on my winter list. I fabricated simple brackets that bolt to the square tubing on both sides of the compartment. Mount them high enough so that they're above the hoses entering the cockpit, but low enough to clear the nose. May have to move the washer reservoir slightly, I don't remember.

 

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Last edited: Jan 16, 2012

S

DaveM

• Jan 16, 2012

• #9

Not sure if first photo can be enlarged so here goes again:

 

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Mike

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 16, 2012

• #10

Thanks, looks like I have some more things to get done before spring time.

 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 21, 2012

• #11

I spoke this week to Dennis who suggested suggested some new better sealing Wilwood caps as a solution. In an effort to clean all the fluid up before I repaint, I wanted to look under the top cover over the reservoirs and make sure there was no fluid leaking inside there. I am struggling to figure out how this thing comes apart and would rather not just start pulling things apart. I seem to have misplaced Dennis' cell # and would like to get this done today if I can. Would someone mind sharing with me what steps would be necessary to remove the panel and get down inside that void? It appears the cover would come off if I could get a wrench on the nuts underneath and remove the reservoir brackets? Doesn't seem to be very easy when the cover will only come up a fraction of an inch. Thanks

 

F

Kevin L

• Jan 21, 2012

• #12

Michael, I am in the process today of pulling that apart today as well. Here are the steps I went through:
1) Remove nose
2) Remove the 7 or so screws around the plate
3) I use an interior panel removal tool or a plastic screw driver to slide in-between the chassis and the plate to lever it up. The plate has adhesive foam attached to act a "seal" (it is not very effective but that is another story), this can make it hard to remove at times.
4) Use a flashlight to inspect, the hoses are not super long making allowing only a small amount of room.
5) You can also remove the canisters from their brackets at this time to really get in there.

Here are some pictures to illustrate. I have also included a picture of my current project, just starting this weekend.

Kevin

 

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Mike

Lifetime Supporter

• Jan 21, 2012

• #13

Thanks everyone for your suggestions & explanations. Great bunch of guys on here with a wealth of knowledge.

 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor

Supporter

• Jan 21, 2012

• #14

fsts2k said:

3) I use an interior panel removal tool or a plastic screw driver to slide in-between the chassis and the plate to lever it up. The plate has adhesive foam attached to act a "seal" (it is not very effective but that is another story), this can make it hard to remove at times.

Click to expand...

Which is why we make and sell the "Tub seal kit" seen here http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/29999-gt40-upgrade-parts-kits-time-machines.html

 

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Kevin L

• Jan 21, 2012

• #15

Mark IV said:

Which is why we make and sell the "Tub seal kit" seen here http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/29999-gt40-upgrade-parts-kits-time-machines.html

Click to expand...

Good point, I have that kit and am putting the seals on now