Setting up dbw throttle?

Hoping I'll be able to use cable operated throttles, but chances are I"ll be stuck with crappy dbw, so I'm trying to understand how the pedal gets setup to accept it?

Every dbw post on LS1T I read references removing and using the phsyical gas pedal from the donor vehicle (and every dbw setup like lokar includes the pedal to), so that can't be right for this application.

Soooooo, how do you install it with the supplied pedals? How does the gas pedal return when you lift off? A spring? A small strut?

I have no clue at all about this, from start to finish. (edit: this will be going a Holley Dominator ECU since that can control dual throttle bodies easily)
 
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Alex, you are not using an LS1, so what you are reading ONLY applys to that.
In the LS series the LS1 is quite different for throttle pedal set-up. It also has a
throttle actuator controller module to interface between the pedal assembly and the ECU. All other LS series use a different pedal rheostat which wires up directly to the ECU. Much easier and neater. There are a couple of guy's that can chime in as to
how they have used the RCR pedal assembly and the pedal rheostat only. Me, I'm
stuck doing the donor pedal assembly (make a bracket and bolt to top of footbox) and TAC module.
 
Okay - I like nice and easy :D

I imagine most are using dbw. I think I was one of the few who was trying (and still am trying) to do cable operated.

So yea, somebody feel free to tell me what was involved to get it working properly with the floor pedal setup please :D (what I need to buy/make)
 
You just need to have the throttle pedal (with the sensor on it) and the associated throttle body for them to work together. GM Performance parts sell them as part of their crate engine kits. It's an option you can add on.

As for the pedal returning, yes there is a return spring built into the pedal assembly.
 
You just need to have the throttle pedal (with the sensor on it) and the associated throttle body for them to work together. GM Performance parts sell them as part of their crate engine kits. It's an option you can add on.

As for the pedal returning, yes there is a return spring built into the pedal assembly.

And what if I have a floor mounted pedal
and 2 mustang throttle bodies
and a holley dominator ecu

Now what :D
 
RCR pedal assembly with DBW throttle attachment.
 

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Alex, the electronics will be way different. You may have to use a cable, then the ECU needs to be correct for a cable and not electronic. Harness if different too.
 
Alex,

Similar to Wayne's. A short linkage rod runs between the RCR pedal and the LS DBW rheostat, taking the GM pedal off. The key is to ensure that the rheostat arm (and the RCR pedal) travels it's entire arc without binding. It just takes a little time and maneuvering of parts to get the right geometry.
 
I cut the GM dbw out of the wirign harness so it had enough slack to make it through the center chase that runs through the gas tank. Then i didnt have to splice gm's 8 wires.

i used 2 mcmaster clevis's to have frans pedal actuate the dbw. i think i like waynes idea better though. His heims look to have less of a chance to get jammed?
 
Another "fine point" to consider is the relative position of the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal while positioning the former. I lke my accel pedal in a slightly forward position relative to the brake so my clumsy wide right foot won't put the brake on when pushing the throttle. Some like the pedals even.
 
I have found that a "delta" between accel pedal and brake pedal, between 1.5 to 2.0 inches is comfortable for most average persons. Personally, I favor 1.5 inches.

Careful because the rake of the drivers seat will make a difference in how it "feels".
 
Another "fine point" to consider is the relative position of the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal while positioning the former. I lke my accel pedal in a slightly forward position relative to the brake so my clumsy wide right foot won't put the brake on when pushing the throttle. Some like the pedals even.

Every car I've ever been in has had the gas pedal ahead of the brake pedal to prevent just that.
 
Every car I've ever been in has had the gas pedal ahead of the brake pedal to prevent just that.

hmmm, wait, production cars have the brake 3" toward the driver compared to gas. I cheated and put mine about 1.5" behind initially. not a good idea. When you are hard into a corner and bottom the brake intothe throttel pedal. Not good. thats a heel toe you dont want. the worst is at 100mph you have to let off brake to relase the throttle to re-brake. otherwise 500 to 900 HP will negate braking quick. i ripped my pedal box out and backed throttle 3" behind gas. Fixed it. But then i have the old pedal box and wide feet...
 
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