Fasteners Nuts Bolts Fittings Question???

This might be a dumb question, but has anyone compiled a list of recommended fasteners, nuts, bolts, clips, fittings, etc. for a SL-C build?

I've been doing lots of research and data-mining, am am seeing references to all sorts of things that I never knew about before, but don't have any specifics other than passing references. For example,
- Nutserts (for putting screws into fiberglass)
- P-clips (for fastening wire loom)
- 5/16" machine screws (for affixing stuff to aluminum chassis)
- Cleco blind grip fasteners (for holding stuff together prior to welding or riveting)
- Swagelocks (for fuel line fittings)
- AN Jet Nuts (for pedal assembly to floor pan)
- Click-Bond?

Those are all great tips, but I am struggling to define the specific details necessary to actually locate and buy that sort of stuff. I am just trying to make sure I fully understand what I'm getting into before jumping in with both feet. For example, what sort of fasteners are used to affix the windows and headlight covers to the fiberglass body? I'm guessing there are certain fasteners that should be purchased in bulk for economy-of-scale reasons.

v/r,
Harold
 
Harold, I don't believe that anyone has compiled any specific list of fasteners. Most of those you listed are available from McMaster-Carr in various quantities. The Click Bond stuff can be purchased from website, but you'll have to have a look to determine what you wish to use (if any). Basically, because the suspension is assembled for transportation only, you'll need to replace some fasteners and use hardened washers in some areas. No biggie, and not too expensive either.

I would rcommend the Swgelok fitting for the fuel rail. Available from several sources, about $14.00. You will likely need only one. Windows and headlight covers will probably use Nylon screws from McMaster-Carr. Use nutserts/rivnuts or simply tap the fiberglass
to suit. There is enough material in those areas that it will hold sufficiently. Drill the holes in the lexan slightly oversize to allow for some expansion of the material (prevents chance of cracking). Have a look at some experimental aircraft build sites. Plenty of info on them.
 
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Harold I was thinking the samething about a month ago. I sat staring at my car going through what fastners I would be using here and there, made a list and put in a order to Spaenaur they have pretty much every fastner known to man. $400 later I received a very small box of stainless nuts, bolts and washes. Now I wish I would have held off and bought what was needed for three or four smaller projects at a time. It is a pain having to drive back and forth to your supplier but no matter how well you think you got things covered there's gonna be something you missed. And to make a list ??? I think every builder on here will have a differant idea on what to use and every car will have different componets so that may not work. I myself am using button head Stainless Nuts and bolts, the full out race cars may use jet nuts or titanium, some people on very tight budgets may stick to the more common plated hex head. So this would be a tuff list to do unless you were building the same car over and over again. So the tips and tricks you see on here maybe the best info offered.
Cheers,
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Just an observation about SS fasteners that may be obvious: they look great and button heads look even better and don't have sharp corners to catch on things. However, SS is not the strongest fastener material so in strength- critical areas be sure to use grade 8 steel fasteners or better (or the metric equivalent, probably 12.9 IIRC).

More generally, one approach to this problem is to buy an assortment of each type to get startedf. McMaster sells divided boxes of (for example) metric stainless buttonhead screws, and the price is approximately equivalent to buying a single size in bulk.

Then what I do is whenever I discover the need for a size I don't have I buy the smallest-qty McMaster box (typically 25 or 50). This is usually in the $5-$15 range. I have a large divided box for each diameter/pitch combination (eg 1/2"-14) and I let the different sizes accumulate in there. Pretty soon I've accumulated enough sizes so that I hardly ever buy fasteners any more. At that point the build is never held up waiting for fasteners to arrive.

This is my current favorite divided parts box:

Amazon.com: Plano Molding 5231 Double Cover Stow N Go Organizer, Porche Red: Home Improvement

I have six or seven of these just to cover the English fasteners (1/4" through 1/2") and four or so to cover metric (3 through 10 mm).

Specifically to the original question, I don't think it's worth trying to predict exactly which fasteners you are going to need.
 
As others have said, you should always buy fasteners in bulk. I'm constantly finding that I "need" different fasteners for the job at hand, whether on the SLC or just for home jobs.

Here are some pics of a couple of my fastener drawers...

IMG_0862.jpg


IMG_0864.jpg


The SLC kits actually come with most of the fasteners you need for the parts supplied- it's the new things that some builders add, or the drivetrain-specific parts that always seem to be "special" somehow and so have to be acquired.

Another vote for the McMaster site- it is full of useful info, is easy to search intelligently, shipping is fast and consistent, and the prices are good to tolerable. That's where I end up getting most of the supply I have.
 
Awesome replies and info...you all gave me some good info to chew on and great websites to reference.

Seeing Will's fastener drawers makes me think I need to spend some time in my man-cave getting my kit in tip-top shape before tackling this project. :idea: I've got my bolts, screws, washers roughly sorted by drawers, but no real rhyme-or-reason...drives me nuts sometimes.

Thanks again,

Harold
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
but no real rhyme-or-reason...drives me nuts sometimes.

It's a really good idea to keep your metrics and your inch fasteners separate. You start mixing those up and you can really drive yourself crazy. Watch out especially for 3/8"-24 vs M10-1.0; they'll even thread onto each other (sort of).
 
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