Dry Sump Tank

Hey Guys...I'm looking for a drysump tank that fits in the SL-C chassis. I've seen the Peterson tank recommended on here before. Is it just the standard 9"x16" that fits well? Are there any special mods to the brackets/chassis needed?

I need a single scavenge tank...right?

Thanks in advance

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I think there's 3 way to do it (at least that I've seen)

Stick it between the beams - but you have to wedge it in there and I don't know if I'd feel comfortable having the tank smashed up into the beams like that like in Craig's car



Chop into it to push it inboard like in the race car


Mount it outboard



I choose to believe outboard is best because the air from the scoop will help keep it cool (whether or not that's true i dunno, lol, but it makes me feel warm and tingly believing it to be so )

Btw, don't try to think the 2.5gallon clyinderical tank will fit ... it won't :/ .... 3gallon stubby or bust

Alex the cooling effect from having the tank exposed to moving air is minimal at best. If you need a cooler, the best bet is an oil/water cooler..

Yos depends where you are running your exhaust, I am poking mine out the sides. I am going to need every Cubic inch of space I can get as I am going to use some larger mufflers and will be snaking a 3" pipe back and forth in the outer cavity.
If you watched Gearz last night Stacey used clips welded to the bottom of the Tank
and bolted it to the frame. I have designed a panel that bolts behind the gas tank and uses the factory clamps so I can rotate the tank any way I want and remove it easily, it also acts as a heat shield. It is a tight spot but it fits perfectly, And yes single scavenge for an LS7.
Cheers,

Craig awesome job on your Air intake does it work well ? do you have the plans to make a copy?

"And yes single scavenge for an LS7."

STOCK LS7.....if you are going with an external oil scavange pump you could use an extra inlet or use a manifold.

Big-Foot said:

Alex the cooling effect from having the tank exposed to moving air is minimal at best. If you need a cooler, the best bet is an oil/water cooler..

Click to expand...

I did say it was positive thinking, lol

Yos I have mounted the tank in between the beams, and have added a cooler. I have also got the Aviad single stage dry sump attached. The problem we had was low oil pressure at idle. Since mine is for street and track, we did a lot of idling at the traffic lights. I have the LS 7 engine. We solved the problem by going to Katech and got their high volume oil pump they sell. It has a 1/3 more capacity of oil flow, at idle my oil pressure when hot is 85 psi. I would recommend this add before you put in your motor. My oil temperatures normally run between 155 and 185 degrees but normally on the lower end of that. If you go to my build you can see pic's

I agree Bob. I did the same. I believe the LS9 internal pump will also work.

Bob D said:

Yos I have mounted the tank in between the beams, and have added a cooler. I have also got the Aviad single stage dry sump attached. The problem we had was low oil pressure at idle. Since mine is for street and track, we did a lot of idling at the traffic lights. I have the LS 7 engine. We solved the problem by going to Katech and got their high volume oil pump they sell. It has a 1/3 more capacity of oil flow, at idle my oil pressure when hot is 85 psi. I would recommend this add before you put in your motor. My oil temperatures normally run between 155 and 185 degrees but normally on the lower end of that. If you go to my build you can see pic's

Click to expand...

2 questions

- isn't that kind of a lot of oil pressure at idle? Don't LS's only need something like 7psi at idle? (not that high op is bad, but that seems pretty high at idle to me?)

- ideal operating temperature of the oil is 180* .... if you're running lower at 160* that isn't necessarily good?

Good info Jac,

We ran the mods by Peterson first and they gave us the green light though....the integrated filter on this tank is one of two versions Peterson offers and its a really nice option...although a little pricey and often a long back order...

Bob D said:

Yos I have mounted the tank in between the beams, and have added a cooler. I have also got the Aviad single stage dry sump attached. The problem we had was low oil pressure at idle. Since mine is for street and track, we did a lot of idling at the traffic lights. I have the LS 7 engine. We solved the problem by going to Katech and got their high volume oil pump they sell. It has a 1/3 more capacity of oil flow, at idle my oil pressure when hot is 85 psi. I would recommend this add before you put in your motor. My oil temperatures normally run between 155 and 185 degrees but normally on the lower end of that. If you go to my build you can see pic's

Click to expand...

Why so much pressure?
Seems to me that you are giving up a lot of free HP needlessly... Dry sump systems are more about delivered oil volume rather than pressure. In the engines we ran in our Late Model race car, we carried about 20 PSI at idle and 40 PSI at 8,000 RPM. The old 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM was with far insuperior oils, oiling systems as well as bearing and crankshaft surface treatments.

Big-Foot said:

Why so much pressure?
Seems to me that you are giving up a lot of free HP needlessly... Dry sump systems are more about delivered oil volume rather than pressure. In the engines we ran in our Late Model race car, we carried about 20 PSI at idle and 40 PSI at 8,000 RPM. The old 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM was with far insuperior oils, oiling systems as well as bearing and crankshaft surface treatments.

Click to expand...

Does too high pressure create excess engine wear?

Thanks for all the great info! I'm gonna get the tank ordered now. :thumbsup:

EFNFAST said:

Does too high pressure create excess engine wear?

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The drag on the oil pump to produce that pressure causes wear on the pump, drive mechanism. It will also produce more windage in the crankcase By what is lost through the bearings as well as the amount of oil that is pushed to the top of the engine that drains back to the sump. There is some data that also proposes that bearing life is reduced by excess pressure since the oil does not stay on the bearings long enough to transfer heat. That data is not mine, but something that a number of engine builder speak of.
You really only need enough pressure to indicate that there is reserve capacity to flow a given volume of oil sufficient enough to lubricate the engine's internals and provide a flow of oil to the bearings that allows the oil molecules to support the load and carry away heat. The notion that you are "floating" the bearings on the pressure of the oil is an old wives tale. Instead, the oil molecules (like little ball bearings) support the bearings.

The other issues that arise from excessive oil pressure are things like:
Stress and strain on the hydraulic system (hoses) and any filters. Having seen a number of filter cans explode over the years, I can attest to the potential hazards...

Here is what will be going in my car (when it arrives?). It is a highly modified LS7 tank. It's shorter then stock and has a piggyback section that will be welded on when it's position is determined after trial fitting it. It has a Aviaid internal baffle installed.



The engine is a 427 LSA build with the piston oil squirters (Katech). The short block was built by ERL Performance. I added a ZR1 oil cooler to the LS7 oil pan. Also installed in the oil pan is the Aviaid trap doors to control oil slosh.

KENS80V said:

Here is what will be going in my car (when it arrives?). It is a highly modified LS7 tank. It's shorter then stock and has a piggyback section that will be welded on when it's position is determined after trial fitting it. It has a Aviaid internal baffle installed.

The engine is a 427 LSA build with the piston oil squirters (Katech). The short block was built by ERL Performance. I added a ZR1 oil cooler to the LS7 oil pan. Also installed in the oil pan is the Aviaid trap doors to control oil slosh.

Click to expand...

Is that a Leightenfelter tank? (btw, my understanding was with dry sumps it's really undesirable to turn any portion of it into a box .... round or bust, with cylinderical being the absolute best)

It looks similar to the Lingenfelter modified tank but it's built by myself.

It is round in design. The oil rotates around the inside of the tube as it drops down to the bottom. Holes are cut in the bottom side where the piggyback section is attached. The additional oil volume then climbs up inside the boxed addition. The piggy back section of the tank simply holds a quantity of oil. The inside of the tank where the piggyback section is welded to is undisturbed. There are only 5/8 inch holes drilled into the tank for the passage of oil.

This tank will hold about 10 liters of oil.