Hey guys - looking at the suspension and upper rod end. Maybe I'm missing something this morning (lack of coffee), but to adjust the camber looks like one has to get the current camber reading as it sits, then jack up frt., remove wheel (to access/remove) the upper rod end bolt, remove bolt, turn rod end, re-install bolt, then tire, lower car to resettle/relax the suspension and take new reading. And, then repeat whole process if needed. This might seem like a simple-duh question - but seems like a lot of trial and error if one has to jack up and remove the wheel several times.
Camber & Rod End Adjustment
- Thread starter shark
- Start date
I don't know how it is adjusted, but if you determine you need to adjust, once the tire is in the air take another measurement, then using that measurement turn your joint then measure again without dropping the corner. get your desired adjustment amount in the air then set it down and measure again, should be close.
Howard Jones
Supporter
The best way to do these types of suspension systems is to get the car set up straight up and down no caster angle and straight front to back (0 degrees camber/caster and no toe) by making camber, caster and toe measurements.
Then turn both inboard top rod ends two complete turns, I like to use the top because they are easy to get to. Make another measurement. Now you have a camber change per one full turn of the rod end. Now make two complete turns on the toe adjustment and see what that gets you. I like to make two full turns because that is about what you will make for a adjustment change. Or course 1 turn is half the change. Do the same at the rear both camber and toe.
Once you finish with camber and toe do the same sort of thing with caster. Move a couple of washers from in front of the rod end to the rear both top and bottom. Record caster change. Now you have a one washer adjustment/change value.
From now on you don't need to constantly re-do the measurement every time you make a change. Just count the turns/washers.
This is one of the benifits of a slotless adjustment system, things don't change unless you move/turn something.
Write the data down somewhere. Mine is on the inside of my tool box cover.
Something like this on my GT40.
Front camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Front caster, 2 washers = 1 degree caster
Front toe, 1 turn = 1/32" per side
Rear camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Rear caster, 2 washers = 1.5 degree caster
Rear toe, 1 turn = 1/16" toe per side
The above is an example not real data.
Then turn both inboard top rod ends two complete turns, I like to use the top because they are easy to get to. Make another measurement. Now you have a camber change per one full turn of the rod end. Now make two complete turns on the toe adjustment and see what that gets you. I like to make two full turns because that is about what you will make for a adjustment change. Or course 1 turn is half the change. Do the same at the rear both camber and toe.
Once you finish with camber and toe do the same sort of thing with caster. Move a couple of washers from in front of the rod end to the rear both top and bottom. Record caster change. Now you have a one washer adjustment/change value.
From now on you don't need to constantly re-do the measurement every time you make a change. Just count the turns/washers.
This is one of the benifits of a slotless adjustment system, things don't change unless you move/turn something.
Write the data down somewhere. Mine is on the inside of my tool box cover.
Something like this on my GT40.
Front camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Front caster, 2 washers = 1 degree caster
Front toe, 1 turn = 1/32" per side
Rear camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Rear caster, 2 washers = 1.5 degree caster
Rear toe, 1 turn = 1/16" toe per side
The above is an example not real data.
Howard Jones
Supporter
The best way to do these types of suspension systems is to get the car set up straight up and down no caster angle and straight front to back (0 degrees camber/caster and no toe) by making camber, caster and toe measurements.
Then turn both inboard top rod ends two complete turns, I like to use the top because they are easy to get to. Make another measurement. Now you have a camber change per one full turn of the rod end. Now make two complete turns on the toe adjustment and see what that gets you. I like to make two full turns because that is about what you will make for a adjustment change. Or course 1 turn is half the change. Do the same at the rear both camber and toe.
Once you finish with camber and toe do the same sort of thing with caster. Move a couple of washers from in front of the rod end to the rear both top and bottom. Record caster change. Now you have a one washer adjustment/change value.
This way may take a bit longer the first time or cost some more if you have someone do it on a rack but from now on you don't need to constantly re-do the measurement every time you make a change. Just count the turns/washers.
This is one of the benefits of a slot less adjustment system, things don't change unless you move/turn something.
Write the data down somewhere. Mine is on the inside of my tool box cover.
Something like this on my GT40.
Front camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Front caster, 2 washers = 1 degree caster
Front toe, 1 turn = 1/32" per side
Rear camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Rear caster, 2 washers = 1.5 degree caster
Rear toe, 1 turn = 1/16" toe per side
The above is an example not real data.
Then turn both inboard top rod ends two complete turns, I like to use the top because they are easy to get to. Make another measurement. Now you have a camber change per one full turn of the rod end. Now make two complete turns on the toe adjustment and see what that gets you. I like to make two full turns because that is about what you will make for a adjustment change. Or course 1 turn is half the change. Do the same at the rear both camber and toe.
Once you finish with camber and toe do the same sort of thing with caster. Move a couple of washers from in front of the rod end to the rear both top and bottom. Record caster change. Now you have a one washer adjustment/change value.
This way may take a bit longer the first time or cost some more if you have someone do it on a rack but from now on you don't need to constantly re-do the measurement every time you make a change. Just count the turns/washers.
This is one of the benefits of a slot less adjustment system, things don't change unless you move/turn something.
Write the data down somewhere. Mine is on the inside of my tool box cover.
Something like this on my GT40.
Front camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Front caster, 2 washers = 1 degree caster
Front toe, 1 turn = 1/32" per side
Rear camber, .5 degree camber = 1 turn
Rear caster, 2 washers = 1.5 degree caster
Rear toe, 1 turn = 1/16" toe per side
The above is an example not real data.
Howard Jones
Supporter
OOOPS......... delete the first one please.
Mike,
Something I have on my race car...
Peter D Motorsports - Parts Catalog
Basically gets another nut/threaded peice on the hiem joint and will allow you to turn the 1 nut, wheel on, and adjust camber/caster. Probably best to do once you unload the weight off the tire
I think this method on an SLC will require a smaller hiem as you would need a threaded peice to screw into the control arm and the hiem would then screw into the peice that is in the control arm. Might give you an idea for something else
Cheers
Chris,
Something I have on my race car...
Peter D Motorsports - Parts Catalog
Basically gets another nut/threaded peice on the hiem joint and will allow you to turn the 1 nut, wheel on, and adjust camber/caster. Probably best to do once you unload the weight off the tire
I think this method on an SLC will require a smaller hiem as you would need a threaded peice to screw into the control arm and the hiem would then screw into the peice that is in the control arm. Might give you an idea for something else
Cheers
Chris,
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