Rear Suspension Ride Height

Hey guys here's my question (see picture-arrows), I'm used to adjusting ride height by the turn shock collars. The coupe has an adjustable strut bar also connected to the bottom of the shock bell. Can someone explain the differences in adjusting one or the other, caveats and/or purpose of that strut bar having adjustment. All my other rides have had more conventional set-ups.

Thx, Mike

IMO, loosten the strut bar locknut, adjust the shock collars, tighten the strut bar nut. All the strut does is provide a linkage to the shock pivot.

One of the joys of a push rod suspension is you can adjust the ride height with out upsetting shock and spring settings, merely by adjusting the length of the pushrod.
john

True, but are you not limiting shock travel by adjusting only the rod? Am I missing something here?

Pusch road modern suspension have been drawn because of Aerodinamics car are born ;

Aerodinamic car need to have a perfect set up concerning ground clearance ; to work perfectly a diffusor need millimetric set up of height and to be as much as possible with right and left height perfectly set up ( to the millimeter)
But as you know a car runs well when load on each wheel is also perfectly balanced ( front right to left and also rear sides) with atolerance of +or- 2kg for the front and 3 to 4 for the rear ; so when you brake the car is not undertseering or over....

With conventional old suspensions it was not possible due to the fact when screwing or unscrewing the shock collar( to lift or not the chassis) , then the preload was different from one side to another and when setting the car on 4 weight balance the gap in between sides was disastrous or very very hard to set ( limit impossible)
Pusch road system was invented so with a very serious calculated on bench preload as soon as coil units are fit you just control the lift of the car with these pusch road , it's very very accurate to the weight on each wheel ( you can eventally correct a little to reach the perfection just correcting 1/8 lap on preload screw !!)

It is mandatory if you want to do a nice job ;

1/ to have springs checked before on a spring test press ( to know exactly each spring rate and screw the preload identically to each side)
2/ to screw these as carefuly as possible measuring thread with a caliper
3/ set the car on 4"electronics weight balances" ( one under each wheel) that have been set on a perfect horizontal floor
4/ Load the car with cans of water to simulate weight of driver and half capacity of fuel

then just play with your puch roads to set up the car to front and rear height given by the car manufacturer !! ET VOILA :drunk::drunk:

Thanks Michel, that pretty much says it all.

cheers John

Thanks Michel, great description. Appreciate your input.

Thanks you'r welcome :shy:

For you guys building this marvellous SLC as the car is a 2 people roomy so it's better when doing this set up to add more load to replicate as close as possible road configuration ;
in doing the set up as explained you will obtain a car running on" wet open road" particularly safe , remember also if you have to drive for along run and it is raining one good thing is to pull out one tie rod on front and rear antiroll bar to have a soft rolling movment and prevent any aqua- planning ( eventually just unscrew equally all pusch roads to lift the car 10 mm this help also to prevent aqua planning ) but coming back house do not forget to go back to original dry road set up !!!!

Thanks Michel - nice description on a fairly technical matter. I've now goggled push rod suspensions - it sounds like corner weighting is an integral part of setting up it correctly. I'm frugal and like to learn and do my own stuff - rather not pay somebody hundreds of dollars and get lackluster results anyway.

Here's my dilemma: to get the ride height close on the rear end, left to right, the driver side shock collar/adjuster is fairly compressed compared to the passenger side. I haven't touched the push rods yet but they are quite close in adjustment (threads showing) left side to right side. Anybody else finding the same circumstance. BTW I'm measuring the ride height off frame points not the fiberglass body or skirts and use 12"x12" floor tiles to level all four tires.

I noticed the same observation on my rear suspension as well Mike. I'm just not at the point of dealing with it yet.

Mike weight transfers diagonally check your fronts

According to page 26 in the SLC Build Manual, adjust the push rod first. With the suspension in full droop, adjust the push rod length so it is about 1mm from touching the upper A-arm. Also ensure that the left vs right push rods are the same length.

Then adjust the coil-overs to get achieve proper ride height.

Thank you all.