Tech

Need a little help….

1.The build manual states if you turn the intake manifold 180 degrees that you will need to take the harness apart, and re- route:
MAP Sensor from front of engine to the rear.
MAF sensor from the front of engine to the rear.
TPS sensor from the front of engine to the rear.
Oil Pressure sensor from the rear of intake to where you have mounted your oil pressure sender (see Senders section below).

Do most builders modify the engine harness? I was snooping online and I have found some extensions that plug in. What is the most common way to extend these, by modifying the harness or using extensions?

2. I am ready to install my coolant tubes. They have been extended as 1 piece units. I intended to foam wrap the pipes next to the cabin. What is the preferred method for insulation behind the front wheels? (Header wrap??)

3. There are 2 open tubes on the engine. One is the rear exit on the fuel rail, and the other is a vertical tube on the left rear of the block below the fuel rail. What is recommended for capping? (I have a Swagelok fitting from my regulator to the fuel rail).

4. After Learning about my coolant system, this is the routing I will use:

My stock crate harness was basically wrapped in corregated tubing then standard electrical tape. High tech.
I took my drive by wire out by cutting 1 foot of electrical tape from the harness, pulling out the DBW then rewrapping the harness with 3m electrical tape. Ive got the LS376 so after that I could reroute the harness to get to the map/maf without ripping out any other wires. But that was back in 2010 so things may have changed. I just didnt want to mess with my DBW, wanted a home run and no chance for shorts/stall or full on throttle.

mcfling said:

Need a little help….

1.The build manual states if you turn the intake manifold 180 degrees that you will need to take the harness apart, and re- route:
MAP Sensor from front of engine to the rear.
MAF sensor from the front of engine to the rear.
TPS sensor from the front of engine to the rear.
Oil Pressure sensor from the rear of intake to where you have mounted your oil pressure sender (see Senders section below).

Do most builders modify the engine harness? I was snooping online and I have found some extensions that plug in. What is the most common way to extend these, by modifying the harness or using extensions?

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You don't need to modify the GMPP harness. Just unwrap some of the wires from the corrugated plastic and move them to where they need to be on the engine.

You may extend the cable to the ETC, preferably by an extension cable, as described in the wiki.

mcfling said:

2. I am ready to install my coolant tubes. They have been extended as 1 piece units. I intended to foam wrap the pipes next to the cabin. What is the preferred method for insulation behind the front wheels? (Header wrap??)

Click to expand...

I am using header wrap, as are many others. It's rugged, and when applied correctly, stays on the tube. Another alternative is ceramic coating, which I also like.

If you are using foam wrap, be sure it is capable of handling the temps seen in the coolant system. Temps there are probably higher than the usual residential systems.

mcfling said:

3. There are 2 open tubes on the engine. One is the rear exit on the fuel rail, and the other is a vertical tube on the left rear of the block below the fuel rail. What is recommended for capping? (I have a Swagelok fitting from my regulator to the fuel rail).

Click to expand...

The fuel rail is usually terminated with a Schrader valve, I think. There is a plastic cap for that.

From your description, I can't tell what the other tube is.
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mcfling said:

4. After Learning about my coolant system, this is the routing I will use:

Click to expand...

TY Will. I will tackle that tomorrow. BTW… Brain fart. I meant to show the oil cooler system I am going to use. After Will's input and talking with Canton, the following layout will be used:

mcfling said:

TY Will. I will tackle that tomorrow. BTW… Brain fart. I meant to show the oil cooler system I am going to use. After Will's input and talking with Canton, the following layout will be used:

Click to expand...

I do not have a cooler or accusump set-up so for my future reference the question is: doesn't the oil in and out block/connection on the engine always needs oil flow between the two? So if the temp. thermostat is closed - will it not block this oil flow.

shark said:

I do not have a cooler or accusump set-up so for my future reference the question is: doesn't the oil in and out block/connection on the engine always needs oil flow between the two? So if the temp. thermostat is closed - will it not block this oil flow.

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The correct thermostat is a 4-port one, so oil is always flowing. If cold, the oil just flows back around to the engine. When hot, the oil is routed through the cooler.

I believe that many thermostats are switches to turn on/off an oil cooler fan and not valves.

CANTDRIVE55 said:

I believe that many thermostats are switches to turn on/off an oil cooler fan and not valves.

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Right, but the drawing shows a thermostatically controlled valve, which is correct for this application.

You can use a thermostatically controlled switch to turn on a fan for the cooler as well. Or if you were fancy, use an Arduino to turn on the fan when the speed is below 5 MPH to proactively keep the temp down after a hard run followed by a stop or low speed interval.

I am running my 10-AN lines to my oil cooler etc. I am using a Mocal Thermostat. It suggest that the lines running into and away from the thermostat be straight. As I look at line routing, I had a few questions:

1. The oil lines run close to the manifold and the side exhaust. Is there a minimum distance that these should be separated from the exhaust/manifold?

2. Would it be a problem to run 30, 45 or 90 degree 10-AN fittings in line to the check valve or thermostat?

On a ZO6 with headers the exhaust runs with in a 1/2 inch of the oil tank lines and no heat problems

Oil cooler, Accusump, and oil lines routed. Coolant system almost complete. Fuel system complete and tested. Now on to AC.

Nice progress Michael. Is your oil cooler supported at the bottom? I'm afraid it won't live a long life if only supported from the top. Are you planning on installing the inner wheel wells?

The cooler is supported on the bottom- rock solid. I am installing the inside wheel well kit too. I have side exhaust. The cooler was mounted with the spyder and exhaust in place. The cooler is located just at the side inlet opening. I also have aluminum plates that cover the horizontal bars. They will be installed later… The center top bolt position will support an exhaust hanger.