Hydraulic lift cylinders for sale

I have the on my front end, but never used them, holes are plugged, I find no advantage of using them, if I were to leave 2" of travel on the springs for lift according to Fran, then when you go to negitive force on the shock, it makes noise and could even come undone to get your lift when you want it to lift up.

Make me a offer, the shorter springs and the cylinders, I always buy high and sell low, make it up in volume.

Since I have 2 extra sets of the wrong springs, Ill put one of them back in.
 
I have the on my front end, but never used them, holes are plugged, I find no advantage of using them, if I were to leave 2" of travel on the springs for lift according to Fran, then when you go to negative force on the shock, it makes noise and could even come undone to get your lift when you want it to lift up.

Make me a offer, the shorter springs and the cylinders, I always buy high and sell low, make it up in volume.

Since I have 2 extra sets of the wrong springs, Ill put one of them back in.

Garry, are you talking about the whole front lift system (shock-springs-pump etc.) or just a couple parts. A whole system I may be interested in. - Mike
 
Garyy,
I dont think you are not grasping how the lift system works.....you do not leave two inches of free space at all....
You have to have droop in the shock and spring as a whole...the spring does not compress when the lft system is used ....
Check out ramliftpro.com as they make the system and have instructions on their website
 
I have seen pictures of the lift sleeve on top of the spring, and pictures of it below the spring. As far as I can tell it will work both ways. Is there a "correct" position ?
 

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They have been sold. Thanks for all the input, but I just don't think I need them. Leaving travel on the shock when it has very little travel to begin with I just don't like it. If you don't leave room for the front end to lift up, then the cylinders do no good, and when you go over a dip in the road, and the car becomes light, you can hear the springs become loose, not for me.
 
They have been sold. Thanks for all the input, but I just don't think I need them. Leaving travel on the shock when it has very little travel to begin with I just don't like it. If you don't leave room for the front end to lift up, then the cylinders do no good, and when you go over a dip in the road, and the car becomes light, you can hear the springs become loose, not for me.

If the spring became loose, they were not installed/adjusted properly.
 
I installed my coilovers the other way around with the lift cylinders on top of the spring. Aside from loosing a small amount of unsprung weight, the real advantage is that the lift cylinder and hydraulic lines move very little as the suspension goes thru its travel. That keeps the lift cylinder and hydraulic lines from getting beat up.
I have seen pictures of the lift sleeve on top of the spring, and pictures of it below the spring. As far as I can tell it will work both ways. Is there a "correct" position ?

I have plenty of front end travel with the lifts.
They have been sold. Thanks for all the input, but I just don't think I need them. Leaving travel on the shock when it has very little travel to begin with I just don't like it. If you don't leave room for the front end to lift up, then the cylinders do no good, and when you go over a dip in the road, and the car becomes light, you can hear the springs become loose, not for me.
 
Bob,

I just noticed in the PIC of your front suspension, that the upper A-arm is mounted to the tub at an angle. All other A-arms I've seen are mounted level.

Is that an update to the chassis?

I have seen pictures of the lift sleeve on top of the spring, and pictures of it below the spring. As far as I can tell it will work both ways. Is there a "correct" position ?
 
Bill, all the chassis have the same angle to the control arms, its part of the anti dive designed into the geometry.
The photograph is exaggerating it for some reason.
 
Great Idea about the lift sleeve on top of the spring ! One issue I had was the "loop" for the suspension travel in the hose. I will be moving mine to the top of the spring ! Thanks !
 
EDIT: I think I understand what I'm missing... in Bob's photo the body is NOT installed whereas in Bill's photo (that I refer to below and when I look at my own Upper A-arm) the body is installed and thus it gives an a different perspective.

Bill, all the chassis have the same angle to the control arms, its part of the anti dive designed into the geometry.
The photograph is exaggerating it for some reason.

Fran,
Bob's picture in post #5 shows the upper A- arm attached to the tub by 6 bolts. In Bob's picture the 6 bolt attachments points DON'T APPEAR TO BE on the same horizontal plane, especially when you compare to Bill's photo of the attachments points for his upper A-arm as shown here:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=63938&d=1362025528

cheers
Stuart
 
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Stu,
they are all in the same plane and the same location...there have been NO changes in the upper suspension mounting holes and their locations in the last 6 years..
 
Bill, all the chassis have the same angle to the control arms, it's part of the anti-dive designed into the geometry. The photograph is exaggerating it for some reason.

Camera lenses exhibit distortion the nearer you get to edges/corners of the image. The effect is more pronounced with wider angle lenses, especially inexpensive ones, as are found on pocket cameras and smartphones.

Most people don't notice this with their snapshots, as the subject matter is usually near the center of the image, and not composed of straight lines and right angles (people, dogs, flowers, trees, etc.) Take a picture of a person standing in a room where in the background there is a painting hanging on the wall near the corner of the image and you'll see what I mean.

This is why people whose jobs require them to take high-quality pictures of buildings spend boo-coo bucks on expensive lenses to minimize this problem.

JR
 
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