Work table

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Bill,

We have a roller table we use for SPF GTs with no tires to roll around the shop and on/off the lift. I can shoot a picture and measure if you want. you need to ensure the car is well supported and the table does no hinder the wheels/tires. My first iteration was too long and didn't work if you put wheels and tires on the chassis.
 
Bill,

If you are a DIY kinda guy then you can build a frame yourself. that is what I did. Here are some glimpses of the frame. Explanation after the pics.

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I had to build a support so I could do angle TIG welding and not vertical.

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I used leftovers from a deck project and was an evolving progress. 8x8s for vertical supports and 2x8s for connecting the uprights. All connectors and support pieces were placed on shoulder cuts on the 8x8s carriage bolts held it all together and the plywood bracing(3/4") secured by 1 1/2" sheet rock screws. On one end I put heavy duty casters and on the other I put a low support board just high enough to get a hand truck under and it let me get the frame with the car on it back and forth in the garage.
The frame is 2 ft. high and wide enough for the entire frame to rest on it. The length was only for the body of the car. The front and rear suspension hung off the ends. I used a 2 Ton engine lift from Harbour Freight on the 1/2 Ton setting and it was long enough to reach the center of the car and lift the frame and central cabin easily to the height of the frame. At this stage the car is very light. I could lift one end of the car easily by myself. I only weigh 160#
If you need more info I can furnish it if this isn't clear enough.

Bill
 
And yes, I use one for years....

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Do you have some way of locking the height into place? What happens if you loose oil pressure? My concern is for your safety and in the event of a catastrophic oil loss the car comes slamming down on you.
 

Rick Merz

Lifetime Supporter
I'm not sure about the green lift but I have the blue lift shown above and the center post between the cylinders has detentes in it which provide a mechanical lock. I would assume that the green one has a similar locking mechanism.
 
Bill, if you're building a scratch built frame and asking what size table to start your project upon I can't help with the dimensions for a GT40 build.

However, I did build a frame for a different project some years ago and I can say that it's helpful if it's a metal framed table with a lot of cross bracing under the deck - you want it to be very, very flat and very, very stiff......so your measurements for placement of tubes and hangers and such are spot on. Small differences at the frame tend to extrapolate into larger differences at the wheels and body when they finally go on.

A metal deck is helpful because you can actually weld some supports and jig fixtures right to the deck...which makes holding things steady and in alignment while you're welding tubes and such much easier. Or, alternatively, a magnetic base with an articulating support arm works well too. Metal deck doesn't catch fire either when welding...always good. Just my $.02.
 
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Arvin, I use 2x4s to secure the height - even that is an industrial lift table which has a fail safe.
I removed the 4x3 table top (300#'s) and made a lift frame. In the spring as a part of the house remodeling I plan to put the table back on and put that lift in the garage ground, so it's flush with the floor.
I do my own oil changes on my 911 - that lift is already paid for. hehe
This is one of the tools which ones you have it, you don't want to miss it.

Rick is right, all the BentPak lift have mechanical locks.


This is what I have in mind...(minus the tile)



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Bill Kearley

Supporter
Thanks for the help, I have a four post Bend pac on one side of the shop and think that scissor would be the answer for the other side, never thot of them. Expecting the 40 in May or June. Just wish CAV made a MKII

Bill
 
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