Window Advice Needed !

I am in Scotland and am currently building a KVA bodied MK1 car.

What is the best method of fixing my perspex windows to the door mouldings ? I have seen some at shows in the UK that have aluminium frames made, some that have been screwed in and some that have been held in with silicone ! Any advice ?

I am also keen to know which type of vent is best to get some fresh air in to the cockpit..

Many thanks guys. I look forward to your response.
 
Mark,

I used 3M window sealer w/ screws. Need to be careful with that, it is messy. There are better products thinking about removing it later... Also, then need black linings in the edges of plexi, otherwise does not look good.

By the way, where did you find KVA? I thought they are not available any more. Old stock?


Best regards


Jukka
 
Jukka,

Thanks for the advice. I intend to be taking the windows out for painting etc once the car has done a few miles. Using screws - if screwing directly into fibreglass do they not become slack ?

Also - how do I achieve the "black linings ?"

Regards,

Mark.
 
Mark,

I only speak here of my experience, there might be other/better ones...

The sealant will prevent screws coming loose/movement of the plexi.

I did the black linings by spray painting about 20mm the opposite side (against the door) of plexi edges, and they look OK and will last.

Jukka
 
Thanks again Jukka - I'll get this done tomorrow night. Any advice on window vents ? Which type do you recommend for getting air into the cockpit, and which ones leak the least ?
 
Hi Mark,
I haven't done my side screen as yet but
her is how I intend on doing it. Once
I have marked out the holes and drill them I will insert a small threaded brass insert
into the holes on the door. Use a good epoxy to hold the insert in. The holes on the plexiglass or lexan panel should be slightly larger than the screw. The screws that I am using are 8-32's with flat allen heads. You
also need a very small rubber O-ring that will fit under the screw head. This O-ring seals the hole and allows the plexi or lexan to expand or contract without cracking it.
I will then apply a 20mm by 3mm thick double
sided tape to the door area. Put the plexi or lexan in place and screw it down against the black double sided tape.
This is a method I used in making sign faces
that prevent the panels from cracking. I have yet to find a better way to do this.
Many sign faces have cracked because they were screwed down without the O-ring. This is
especially true if there is any contour on
the plexi. I also used this method on my
homebuilt airplane with success.

Hersh
smile.gif
 
Thanks Hersh - any advice on window vents ? I am wondering which ones will let a reasonable amount of air in the cab but will not leak too much !

Regards,


Mark.
 
Personally I like the rectangular windows cut out with the hindges on the outside and lock inside. The only problem with this is it will have a slight gap between the to peices. They will be flush with each other but making them myself I have a gap about 1/32" on each side between(OK by me). The other way I've noticed is to mount the rectangle window to the outside you just need to cut the window the cut another peice larger then the whole. By doing this you can add foam tape to the vent for a seal. Not correct but no leaks.
 
Altho I havn't done this myself (yet!?) Was looking at a really nice KVA the other day & the owner had fitted the perspex with 'Rivnuts' (inserts as described by Hershal)

I've used these alot on previous race cars & they're 'magic'. As long as the insertion tool is correctly adjusted so it doesn't crack the f/glass.

hope this helps,
 
I used m3 inserts and held the windows in with button head stainless steel m3 screws.
Use a bit of resin in the holes when you crimp up the inserts.
I can supply scratch resistant 3mm polycarbonate side windows for early GTD doors, complete with hinges and catch.
 
What comes to vents, I believe best ones are the original type MK 1 hinged from the front. I had sliding comp. type, and they are not that good when it comes to practicality, noise and vent efficiency.


Jukka
 
I was reading that there was one original GT40 modified with a three section door window with middle section "roll-up", but converted back. This would be very nice for a street car, especially for driver's side (tolls, etc). Anyone have pictures or thoughts?
 
To get the nice black edge...
When you get the perspex or Lexan sheet stock, it will have a protective plastic coating on it. Leave that in place! Cut your window pattern and trial fit everything to the door. When you are satisified with the fit, make a depth gage with small blocks of wood that has a razor blade for the scribe. Run the blade around the INSIDE of the window keeping the depth stop tight to the edge, slitting the outer most 20 mm of the protective plastic. Then peel the 20mm protective plastic edge off. Paint the exposed inside window edge. When the paint is dry, peel all of the protective coating off,,, you'll have a nice black trim. Good luck. Greg
 
Thamks guys - success. I now have two neatly fitted side windows thanks to the use of the threaded expansion bushes. These have worked extremely well.

Tonight should see the same process for the rear window and the headlight covers !

As I get nearer paintng the car I seem to be be getting more and more keen on the Gulf colours. I have seen from some of the other message topics that it should be Triumph Powder Blue and Marigold for the orange, but can anyone recommend the best pictures that will show me how the colours SHOULD be layed out ? Some cars I have seen have the orange section sloping up at the front, or being horizontal, or even just having the stripe going right to the nose and nothing else. Does anyone know which is right ?
 
G

Guest

Guest
The orange strips can either just fall off the nose of the car or wrap around the sides. There were three differing patterns but the most popular is that as on 1075 which wraps around to the front wheel arches. There it rises up to the arch and doesn't stay horizontal. The thrid pattern involved a triangle of orange on the front deck (clip).
Of course once you have that sorted you have to decide how thick to have the dark blue strip. 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch?
1075 was repainted after its glory years and I beleive the original pattern was not exactly kept to so that doesn't help in deciding what is correct.
Personally I think my colours are correct and just brilliant!
Malcolm
 
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