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The SLC Clubhouse RCR SLC Build Logs and Technical Questions

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Old 9th June 2012, 02:25 PM   #381
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Re: SLC 001 Build

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The tank is a variation of the original design being full width with the top chopped off, (about 18 gallons). The cables will pass over the top of the tank and pass through the wall near the fuel filler hose. All pass through holes will eventually get rubber 'protection'.
Isn't the main pulley going to be right where they'll be exiting?
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Old 31st July 2012, 04:02 AM   #382
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Time to mount the (really cool) 'Roberto' APR mirrors, but first roll the car outside and perform a bunch of practical testing to see where the premium mounting location is going to be.

Turns out that if you want to see anything behind you (in this case my Audi was the 'target'), you must mount the bottom of the mirror lens at least 1 inch above the highest point on the back of the car (when both locations are measured on and from level ground). On my SLC that is the fender tops. But then you cannot get them too high or the wing starts to block up the works. So the height is critical, especially for us ''wing'' cars

As it turned out the proper location caused the mirror mounts to end up about 1/3 up the A post...of course there isnt enough meat on the A post to mount them there. Break out the fiberglass.

Now onto figuring out how I am going to mount the side glass...
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SLC 001 Build-image0179-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0180-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0183-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0186-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0187-jpg  

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Old 31st July 2012, 01:43 PM   #383
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Re: SLC 001 Build

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Now onto figuring out how I am going to mount the side glass...
I assume you'll just cut a notch out of the sideglass, but what method of attachment are you leaning towards?
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Old 31st July 2012, 05:23 PM   #384
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Re: SLC 001 Build

I wouldn't change the lexan at all. Just sandwich it between your new mount tab and the mirror mount plate.
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Old 31st July 2012, 05:34 PM   #385
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Re: SLC 001 Build

I dunno, I am thinking that a sandwich of the lexan might cause it to crack under the mirror (?) A nylon fastener and direct in fiberglass threads will probably be the install method. If the threads get loose (actually I think the nylon will wear first) I'll helicoil. This method prevents ugly protrusions inside the cabin that will need some sort of solution to make look right. Easy enough to mask the holes from the inside. I'd rather bond the glass in from a seal standpoint but I also want to be able to easily remove them.
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Old 31st July 2012, 05:42 PM   #386
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Re: SLC 001 Build

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I wouldn't change the lexan at all. Just sandwich it between your new mount tab and the mirror mount plate.
With this approach you'd need to unattach and reattach the mirror every time you want to remove the window. Notching the glass mitigates the need to remove the mirror every time.
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Old 31st July 2012, 11:00 PM   #387
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Re: SLC 001 Build

I've never had any luck cutting Lexan (Replacing broken windshields on the race bike after I've tossed myself down the track & into the kitty-litter). No matter what I do, it ends up cracking.

What method works?
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Old 31st July 2012, 11:35 PM   #388
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Tape off the area to be cut and draw your cut line. For a jigsaw, use a meduim tooth blade because fine teeth will tend to melt the material and clog the blade. Low speed and go slow! You can use a spray bottle of dishwashing liquid and water to keep the area and blade cool as you go along and prevent melting the Lexan. Lexan won't chip like acrylic, but it will melt. Polish the edges with a palm sander and buff. Easypeasie...
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Old 1st August 2012, 12:12 PM   #389
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Re: SLC 001 Build

If you make the holes for the mirror mounting hardware a bit bigger than the shaft diameter in will prevent cracking. For a 1/4 screw I would drill a 9/32 hole and bevel the edges on both the front and back. The footprint for the mirror looks plenty big enough to spread the load.

If someone bumps the mirror hard enough to break the lexan then in has more than likely hurt the fiberglass also. But then you knew that when you put them there in the first place.

As a alternative how about cutting a half circle radius out of the window around the mirror foot and attach the lexan to the fiberglass mounting wing itself. Two points on the wing ought to do it.
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Old 1st August 2012, 04:55 PM   #390
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Lexan (polycarbonate) - As strong as it is this material is very notch sensitive and will easily crack if there is a sharp corner. Radius all sharp edges and especially corners after cutting. Never ever use threadlocker on bolts that go thru this material. The material will fog, craze and eventually crack. No flathead type bolts. The hoop stress caused will eventually cause the material to crack. Any hole should be at least one drill size larger than the fastener to allow for expansion and contraction due to temperature swings. Do not over tighten. Allow the material to move if it needs to.

Cutting - Secure it to a solid cutting surface. Tape a line where you are going to cut. A metal cutting blade is good and go slow like Molleur said keeping it cool with soapy water. Allow the blade to cut without force or pressure. And did i mention-GO SLOW.
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Old 1st August 2012, 05:20 PM   #391
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Re: SLC 001 Build

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No flathead type bolts. The hoop stress caused will eventually cause the material to crack.
This is waht I don't understand.

Every lexan/polycarb manufacturer says no countersunk bolts, but everybody's car I see on here is countersinking them (windows, headlight covers, rear window, etc...). I didn't - I used a powercoated bolt and washer and an over-sized hole and it's worked well, but I don't understand how everybody says no countersinking, but it seems everybody does it anyway?
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Old 1st August 2012, 09:24 PM   #392
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Re: SLC 001 Build

the following link is a design guide for polycarbonate and covers the subject well.

http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/plas...sing_guide.pdf

The angle on flat head screws applies hoop stress as it is tightened. Polycarbonate can handle compression stress much better. Hoop stress bad, compression stress better.
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Old 1st August 2012, 11:43 PM   #393
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Also the Poly Carb has a different coefficient of thermal expansion than the material around it, and c-sunk hardware does not allow it to "float" properly.
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Old 2nd August 2012, 10:22 AM   #394
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Re: SLC 001 Build

I use 36 teeth per inch fine metal cutting blades in my saber saw (jigsaw) and they cut fine with no cracking or melting and give a very clean cut. They are Bosch brand, package of four, available from Lowes.
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Old 25th August 2012, 01:02 AM   #395
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Re: SLC 001 Build

updated
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SLC 001 Build-image0191-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0192-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0193-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0203-jpg  
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Old 25th August 2012, 01:27 AM   #396
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Fiddling with decklid latches. These are from a Corvette hood and came with cables and release handle. These will lend themselves nicely to a 'one pull' decklid release as this location will allow well placed routing of the release cables. Of course this required some molded parts to install. I made attachements for the pins to the underside of the lid but I don't know if they are going to work...May be awhile before I finish this, I wanted to get a start on working this problem out.
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Old 25th August 2012, 10:46 AM   #397
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Re: SLC 001 Build

That's fun stuff! Nice job!
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Old 2nd October 2012, 12:52 AM   #398
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Re: SLC 001 Build

Had some time to dedicate to the deck lid latch/release system...coming along. Needed to make a stop for the cables to attach to the latches, I'm sure there is some part to do this on a Vette but I did not want to wait around until I found it. Still need to fab a suitable cover for the release handle, it's a little plasticy..may cover it and make a bezel out of brushed aluminum. My latch pocket is full of air holes, yick, was in too much of a hurry molding that part!
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SLC 001 Build-image0267-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0271-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0291-jpg   SLC 001 Build-dscn5970s-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0313-jpg  

SLC 001 Build-image0315-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0275-jpg   SLC 001 Build-image0293-jpg  
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Old 2nd October 2012, 01:11 AM   #399
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Re: SLC 001 Build

And this one is for Alex. Shift cables now routed through the firewall and nowhere near any pulleys as they pass into the engine compartment. Routing allowed gentle sweeping bends from front to back. Thanks to Jim at Brandwood for working with me on the cables.
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Old 2nd October 2012, 10:04 AM   #400
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Re: SLC 001 Build

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updated
Rob,

Is that the standard 2-piece window? How well do you think they will seal along the "cut line"?

Regards,

Colin
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