SL-C #50 Allan's Build

[Randy V]

Originally Posted by AllanSLC

The heater works great in the SL-C but with the heat wave it was time to charge up the AC system.
I have used in the past a product called Envirosafe and used it again on my SL-C. It doesn't need the system to be in a vacuum situation and isn't affected by moisture in the system like 134a. And .38 pounds is equivalent to 1 pound of 134.
I have a ac manifold kit from Harbor Freight so it was just a matter of hooking up to the high and low sides, putting in an oil charge and one can of refrigerant to give enough pressure to activate the tri nary switch. Then with the car running turn on the ac then fill the system to 40 pounds on the low side.
Works great and blows very cold air.

That's great news Allan!

I'll be looking into that Environsafe refrigerant.. I wonder if it would also work with older R12 systems? When you say fill the system to 40 pounds on the low side, that is 40PSI correct?

[Allan]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

That's great news Allan!

I'll be looking into that Environsafe refrigerant.. I wonder if it would also work with older R12 systems? When you say fill the system to 40 pounds on the low side, that is 40PSI correct?

Yes it's 40 psi. Here's a link to the site and they have a different type for R12 systems.
EnviroSafe Refrigerants - Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products

[Randy V]

Originally Posted by AllanSLC

Yes it's 40 psi. Here's a link to the site and they have a different type for R12 systems.
EnviroSafe Refrigerants - Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products

Wow... They even have an R22 replacement! I just paid almost $600 to have my home AC charged up with 9# of R22.... The last guys that worked on it had left out a schrader valve and just screwed on a plastic cap. Of course it all leaked out. Thanks for the link!

[Allan]

I added two 5.2" SPAL fans on the inside of the vents along side the license plate to draw hot air out of the engine bay. They are on an ignition activated relay and have an adjustable thermostat switch so they don't come on until the engine bay heats up.

I haven't had any trouble with coolant or oil temps but I figured it wouldn't hurt to have more air movement back there.

[Alex]

Allan, do you have any concerns about having the battery so close to your fuel tank and pump/filters/etc....?

I've been contemplating moving mine there in order to free up some room, but not certain about the wisdom of having a battery near a fuel tank. Hmm.

[Mark Bajus]

Originally Posted by AllanSLC

I added two 5.2" SPAL fans on the inside of the vents along side the license plate to draw hot air out of the engine bay. They are on an ignition activated relay and have an adjustable thermostat switch so they don't come on until the engine bay heats up.

I haven't had any trouble with coolant or oil temps but I figured it wouldn't hurt to have more air movement back there.

Nice idea on the fans- just go a bit bigger and you will have reincarnated the chapparal sucker car!
The most unusual Chaparral is the 2J. On the chassis' sides bottom edges are articulated plastic skirts that seal against the ground (a technology that would later appear in Formula One). At the rear of the 2J are housed two 17-inch, JLO (pronounced "EE-lo") fans driven by a single 45 hp two stroke twin snowmobile engine.

[Tom Sharpe]

Originally Posted by AllanSLC

Yes it's 40 psi. Here's a link to the site and they have a different type for R12 systems.
EnviroSafe Refrigerants - Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products

I know this guy - I lived 10 miles away - bought R22a from him. He has good prices on gauges, vacuum pumps, etc. Also stop leak and synthetic oil (better performance/economy) for your home system (they work). I recommend all of them. I wish he had product for the new home high-pressure systems.

[Allan]

Finally found the time to get my SL-C to the Dyno tuner today. Gained over 30 hp and 28 pounds of torque, plus evened out the torque curve.

The factory tune on the LS376 was good but was running rich through most of the rpm range. But with a little adjustment to the spark and fuel tables, my SL-C is even more exciting.

IMGP2243 - YouTube

IMGP2243 - YouTube

IMGP2244 - YouTube

IMGP2244 - YouTube

IMGP2239 - YouTube

IMGP2239 - YouTube

IMGP2238 - YouTube

IMGP2238 - YouTube

[Robert Lee]

Awesome Allan. Will have to talk more on that, when I get a chance.

[Alex]

Numbers numbers we want numbers

[Mike]

Allan - good to hear that the factory tune was proper, and slightly rich could be a good thing, versus the opposite. Gaining approx. 30hp/Tq sounds about right without too much worry regarding going overboard on the tune.

Yes - we are curious as to the crate LS376 engine's wheel HP/Tq. relating to SLC's drive-train loss, air intake set-up and exhaust configuration.

Covering the license plate was a smart move.

-- Mike

[Michael Fling]

Love your car! The paint is awesome. If you could answer a few questions for me about your build, I would appreciate it.

I noticed you ordered a black car, and then painted it. Was there motive to your madness regarding that color to be painted as opposed to getting it in primer? If I order one, I too would paint it and I ws wondering about your color choice.

Where did you find your rear wing, and have you been pleased with it? I too want a rear wing, BUT I want the bodywork over the rear of the car. I understand that for the wing that Fran has, that you have to use the diffuser. My assumption is that using the diffuser necessitates the removal of the bodywork in the rear.

Last- I love your wheels!

Thanks!

[Allan]

Originally Posted by mcfling

Love your car! The paint is awesome. If you could answer a few questions for me about your build, I would appreciate it.

I noticed you ordered a black car, and then painted it. Was there motive to your madness regarding that color to be painted as opposed to getting it in primer? If I order one, I too would paint it and I ws wondering about your color choice.

Where did you find your rear wing, and have you been pleased with it? I too want a rear wing, BUT I want the bodywork over the rear of the car. I understand that for the wing that Fran has, that you have to use the diffuser. My assumption is that using the diffuser necessitates the removal of the bodywork in the rear.

Last- I love your wheels!

Thanks!

Thanks Michael, I can't say enough great things about the SL-C. Both in building them and of course driving them.

There was no method to the black gel coat, it was what was available and I knew that I was painting it so it didn't matter to me the color. I put 2 coats of Featherfil, sand that then put on 2 coats of 2K primer sealer so the color of the gel coat is irrelevant.

My wing is an APR wing, Universal APR Performance GTC-500 Adjustable Carbon Fiber Wing and I sourced it from https://www.body-kitz.com/contents/en-us/d321.html. The SL-C wing is only for the race tail set up and has to be used with the aluminum diffuser that is a part of the race tail set up.


Hope that helps

[Bill]

Allan,

Your SLC looks great!



Now that you have some street miles on your SLC, would you change anything in the way you built it? For example:

• Isolator motor mounts to reduce engine noise
• Quieter exhaust to reduce right pedal noise
• Isolated suspension to reduce road noise
• Ride height adjustment
• Softer springs
• Etc...

I'm just starting my SLC build and wondering about these things.

[Allan]

Originally Posted by rumbles

Allan,

Your SLC looks great!





Now that you have some street miles on your SLC, would you change anything in the way you built it? For example:

• Isolator motor mounts to reduce engine noise
• Quieter exhaust to reduce right pedal noise
• Isolated suspension to reduce road noise
• Ride height adjustment
• Softer springs
• Etc...

I'm just starting my SLC build and wondering about these things.

Thanks again.
I like the solid engine mounts. I thought that there would be more vibration and noise but there isn't.
I would opt for bigger mufflers, but with the current configuration it's still easy to have a conversation while driving.
I'd want to experience the isolated suspension before I give an opinion. If it doesn't sacrifice any of the precise handling then I'd do it. But it wouldn't be a have to do.
The springs are just right.
I have the ride height set at 4.25" to the bottom of the side splitters.

I added the lift kit after the fact, comes in handy for the lift and trailer.

Use a lot of sound dampering and coat the underside of body with some spray on or roll on sound deadening (Spectrum from 2nd skin audio)

I added close out panels between the frame to the body. They would go behind the supplied panel that is to the sides of the seats.

Back up camera, get one that stays on all the time.

Use either the hippo ear mirrors are after market double convex race mirrors.

The fans out the rear vents help with temps while idling.

Make sure you cut the wheel well lips back to 1/2".

Drive it any chance you get! I was out in a little bit of snow a couple of weeks ago and got to learn what it feels like when the rear end breaks loose.

Hope that helps.

[Mesa]

Allan,
You may have noted this in your thread already but, what springs do you have?

[Fran Hall RCR]

standard front with lift kit is 600lb , rear for a street car is 650lbs

[Bill]

I beleive the Rapier uses 450 front and 350 in the rear.

[Fran Hall RCR]

If they have changed the springs those cars will bottom out under spiritied driving with those poundages...way too soft especially in the rear.
I absolutely DO NOT endorse spring those rates on an SLC ....

FYI.
We run more than triple those rates at the rear on the race car with the same suspension geometry and Ryan/Matt Bell still said the car was a little on the soft side and we raised them another 100lbs in the rear