ricardo trans oil cooler

Rockhopper1970 · 4th May 2012, 02:09 PM

does anyone know which of the transmission oil cooler ports is the out going feed?
Thanks in advance rockhopper.

Alex · 4th May 2012, 10:07 PM

When I asked I don't think it mattered.

Alex · 5th May 2012, 03:29 AM

Thinking about it though, it would matter if you were mounting the cooler vertically (and not horizontally) since you want to flow in from the bottom and out from the top.....

Rockhopper1970 · 5th May 2012, 06:31 AM

My cooler is vertical

Alex · 5th May 2012, 10:28 PM

Bump; I need to know too now since I moved my cooler from horizontal to vertical to accomodate my new dry sump setup

Ken Roberts · 6th May 2012, 04:16 AM

The rear fitting is the outlet. I just got this info from the Ford GT Forum.

I'm just starting to plan my cooler install. Is the Setrab 625 the ideal cooler? Is 8AN hose size correct?

Alex · 6th May 2012, 01:34 PM

Do you have a link to that thread on the f-gt forum that mentions that? I just like to double check for piece of mind

Also, it's -8. You can use the setrab or an earls cooler. Cam is using a b&m one and it fixed his oil boiling out the vents problem.

Ken Roberts · 6th May 2012, 05:53 PM

I don't have a link, sorry.

Alex · 7th May 2012, 02:18 PM

I confirmed it, you are correct.

The port closest to the front of the car is the return. The port toward the rear is the "out".

Rockhopper1970 · 7th May 2012, 05:12 PM

I wish you were wrong, I looked up a picture of the ford factory cooler(not installed) and thought it was the other way around, oh well back to do it again.

Rockhopper1970 · 7th May 2012, 05:20 PM

The trans fittings are AN 8, I used an8 90 double females from earls and then used a an8 to an10 male union followed by a temp fitting which is now on the wrong side of the cooler,(thats what i get for guessing) I went up to 10 to accomidate the an 10 cooler Fran gave me, also they provide more space for the temp probe so it does not reduce fluid flow that bad

Rockhopper1970 · 7th May 2012, 05:22 PM

ENFast, hwo did you confirm, before I replumb the &*%(#$& lines

Alex · 7th May 2012, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockhopper1970

ENFast, hwo did you confirm, before I replumb the &*%(#$& lines

I asked the guy who makes the setrab package for the ford GT.

Rockhopper1970 · 7th May 2012, 06:28 PM

Thanks EN

Cam · 7th May 2012, 10:43 PM

The day I put that B&M cooler on, all my boiling probelms went away. well spent $100. it only boiled on track days though. teaspoons, but its $10 a teaspoon for that oil....

Alex · 14th July 2012, 02:35 AM

Is there a maximum length of oil cooler line you can run before you experience pressure drop that you should worry about?

I placed my cooler on the driver rear scoop side, so I've got to make a bit of a trip to get over to it.......

Also, is anybody using a Ricardo, strictly street use, and not using a cooler. i'm wondering if a cooler is only necessary for track use to prevent weeping out the vents?

Frank · 14th July 2012, 07:01 AM

from my own personal experience with years of porsches I would run the cooler on the trans. Porsche trans (older models 964,930,993 trani like to get warm & boil the oil inside.

Even the 997's are like this to be honest. I have had porsches with trani issues because of over heating drivetrain. Ive had long talks with Matt @ Gtgears and other companies who are making a adaptor kit for the porsche trani to run like sequential. Ive done so much reading on these porsche drivetrains in the last 5 years it made my head spin right outa porsches. With the, or A cooler you should have no issues because these trans are honestly bullitproof.

Looks like you really have it all down, Nice work and great project. Best of luck

Colin · 14th July 2012, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lopro

from my own personal experience with years of porsches I would run the cooler on the trans. Porsche trans (older models 964,930,993 trani like to get warm & boil the oil inside.

I've raced many porsches over the years with the G50 trans, and it is definitely very strong if you can keep the fluid temps down. You don't really need that big of a cooler, just getting the fluid out of the housing and into some air flow works.

The one other things that can happen on the G50 trans is binding of the clutch release needle bearings. When this happens, you end up breaking the bosses right off off the trans housing (been there, done that). So if your clutch starts to take more effort to push, this is a possible culprit. There is an upgrade to bronze bushings, but I would just make sure to clean/replace the needle bearings every time you service the clutch.

Fran Hall RCR · 15th July 2012, 07:22 AM

We have a cooler and pump on the 01 car ....G97/50 transaxle.

We had a trans cooler fail mid race last year at the 13 hr VIR race .....we did not replace it mid race but we did continue to run the pump to circulate the oil and this seemed to work well in keeping temps under control ...it was a chilly event and ambient temps were low though....
I would install one for track use or very high power output engine application....cheap insurance.

Vidal · 15th July 2012, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt40fran

We have a cooler and pump on the 01 car ....G97/50 transaxle.

We had a trans cooler fail mid race last year at the 13 hr VIR race .....we did not replace it mid race but we did continue to run the pump to circulate the oil and this seemed to work well in keeping temps under control ...it was a chilly event and ambient temps were low though....
I would install one for track use or very high power output engine application....cheap insurance.

I'm curious to if a cooler only (on a G50), set horizontal below the gear oil level, would be of any help?? Would the oil just sit in the cooler or would the vent's pressure move the fluid? Sort of thinking out loud.....