Engine Mount Selection (LS1,2,3,,,?)

[James]

Does it matter what make engine mount we use? Are they specific to the engine we use?

There is someone locally selling a set of new ls1 (98-02 Camaro) Spohn solid motor mounts. I have a 6.2 does anyone know if these will work?

Trying to get the engine in this weekend.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Our engine mount is designed to use the factory cast aluminum mounts as used in the Corvette

 

[James]

Roger,, thanks for the fast reply Fran.

 

[Eric McClellan]

FWIW, all LS variants have the same mount style to the block.

 

[PeteB]

They aren't all the same. You need the C6 Corvette engine mount brackets, part numbers 10349964 and 10349965.

 

[Eric McClellan]

They aren't all the same. You need the C6 Corvette engine mount brackets, part numbers 10349964 and 10349965.

Well, technically, I was correct. to the block, they are all the same... the part numbers you listed were are for the RH and LH side for a corvette. There are different style of mounts, such as the corvette and camaro style and even the clamshell, but to the block itself, they are all the same and all LS engines have the same dimensions (minus the intake and oil pan).

 

[PeteB]

The engine mount crossbar that comes with the kit bolts directly to the engine mount brackets.

 

[Eric McClellan]

The engine mount crossbar that comes with the kit bolts directly to the engine mount brackets.

That's great news!

 

[James]

LOL. I just dropped the engine in this weekend, and found out,, yes,, the crossmember attaches right to the brackets...Otherwise the engine would site uphill if you tried to stick a mount in between. Thank you all for the help. Reaffirms I'm not crazy (at least in that aspect), and that the engine looks right where it's supposed to be.

 

[Mark B.]

Just curious, has anyone had a problem with spacing on the mounts? I mocked mine up and the corvette motor mounts holes are about 1/2" too narrowly spaced compared to the crossmember (i.e. 1/4" on each side). I was going to just elongate the holes a little on each side to make it work.

 

[PeteB]

I had the same problem. I put a set of washers under the motor mount brackets on each side to push them out a little and then everything lined up.

 

[Alex]

I'm using the original mounting setup (aluminum beam and mounts welded directly into frame) and my driver side was fine but the passenger was 1/2'' off so I just slotted the engine mount. I had the same fitment issue with my plastic mockup block as well *shrug*

 

[Eric McClellan]

I had the same problem. I put a set of washers under the motor mount brackets on each side to push them out a little and then everything lined up.

I'm using the original mounting setup (aluminum beam and mounts welded directly into frame) and my driver side was fine but the passenger was 1/2'' off so I just slotted the engine mount. I had the same fitment issue with my plastic mockup block as well *shrug*

As my buddy would say, "that's hot-rodding for you, you gotta think like a hot-rodder. None of this will be perfect, if you want a perfectly built car, go buy one someone else has already figured out".

I was whiny one day and he laid that down on me pretty hard LOL.

 

[Mark B.]

Thanks for the responses, guys. I wanted to make sure I wasn't suffering from cranial/rectal inversion.

 

[Jack]

Or, suffering from Optirectalitis...

 

[PeteB]

I was looking at the engine tonight trying to figure out the best place to bolt on the ground strap, then it occurred to me that with no rubber mounts, a ground strap is pretty redundant. Electrically speaking, the engine and transaxle are pretty much part of the chassis.

 

[TSR]

Always supply a designated ground, it will save you headachs in the future, When electricity flows through dis similar metals you will get corrosion that leads to resistance. You do not want this on your structural mounting points. If done correctly the bonding strap will corrode and simply be replaced as required.

 

[Jack]

Good advise from Thomas.