Some of you have done extensive work with this heat barrier. Straight out of the box it looks wrinkled. Does anyone have any advice? Where to start, big or small pieces? I'm all ears at this point.
Gold reflective heat barrier help
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
Take a look on youtube for installing vinyl or other sheet type products. Really hard to explain best method in text, you have to see it. On big pieces, just don't pull all of the backing at once and try to install. Pull it back abit, position it via marks you made previously, press on a small piece, then use a plastic squeegee to push out air bubbles as you go, working center to the outside. For the rei gold stuff, I would put a soft towel or rag over squeegee to not scratch it.
I guess I did just put it in text, lol. Should be many vids out there to see it though.
I guess I did just put it in text, lol. Should be many vids out there to see it though.
Question
I'm not using this but I do a lot of clear bra installs which is a wet application. We use a gel so the material is loose and can be positioned and repositioned until the gel is squeegeed out. Would this technique work for this product?
I'm not using this but I do a lot of clear bra installs which is a wet application. We use a gel so the material is loose and can be positioned and repositioned until the gel is squeegeed out. Would this technique work for this product?
I don't think you would even need anything like that.
If anyone wanted to try a wet application as a test, I forgot to mention that we used to use 3 drops of baby shampoo in a quart of water (spray bottle. Wet the application area with the shampoo spray, and as you peel the vinyl, spray the glue side as well. We often roll the film backward and stick one spot down and roll it while taking it off its protective sheet onto the surface to prevent it sticking to itself. To promote water removal, we also keep a spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol and water combo (about 10 parts water to 1 part alcohol)to spray around the edges to remove shampoo from "stubborn" spots as we squeezed the vinyl down.......center out as you do dry.
Again just a technique that might work on those bigger areas to help remove any wrinkles in the film. But I have never put this film on, so this may not be of any value for this product.
Again just a technique that might work on those bigger areas to help remove any wrinkles in the film. But I have never put this film on, so this may not be of any value for this product.
Wet application is not necessary. The material is a lot like duct tape. I wrapped each of the aluminum crossmembers. I made patterns for each bar, cut the gold foil to size with scissors, and depending on accessability and shape, removed the backing as necessary. They key for me was to stretch the material somewhat. Then smooth with your hand to squeegee it, being careful not to trap bubbles. I had large pieces wrap around on itself and get stuck sticky side to sticky side, but was able to get it back apart. It's pressure sensitive, so after positioning if you don't press it down you can easily pull it back up and reposition. If you do press it down, you can still pull it back up. These are all things that you will find out soon after you start. Overall it's pretty simple to work with. I've sworn I'll never attempt window tint ever again and I've installed 3M clear bra on the nose of a few cars. The gold foil is nothing like those. Especially since the surfaces I applied to are flat.
The surface if the gold IS delicate. It is easy to get micro scratches. I think it will be absolutely unnoticeable after putting some miles on the car. Just like other aspects of this car, there will be so much else to look at with the rear clam open, nobody's going to shine a flashlight down there and wonder how some superfine scratches got on the gold surface.
A.J.
The surface if the gold IS delicate. It is easy to get micro scratches. I think it will be absolutely unnoticeable after putting some miles on the car. Just like other aspects of this car, there will be so much else to look at with the rear clam open, nobody's going to shine a flashlight down there and wonder how some superfine scratches got on the gold surface.
A.J.
Michael Fling
Supporter
Dean,
Not sure how to overcome the wrinkles? My post was developed from Yos. He is the King of Reflect-a-Gold. If you get larger sheets from DEI, it is still wrinkled. BTW... I often drilled through the foil without any problems.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/39723-fling-slc-build-thread-8.html
Mike
Not sure how to overcome the wrinkles? My post was developed from Yos. He is the King of Reflect-a-Gold. If you get larger sheets from DEI, it is still wrinkled. BTW... I often drilled through the foil without any problems.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/39723-fling-slc-build-thread-8.html
Mike
Sometimes the foil is wrinkled the way it is located on the backing paper. The foil/adhesive stretches some. Peel it off the backing paper, position one edge and pull the foil to stretch it. I think the weinkles should come out. Certainly on the crossmembers this is true. It may be more noticeable on the bulkhead (broad flat surface), but I didn't have that problem.
A.J.
A.J.
I don't think I have the patience to make a pattern for everything! I hope to get started on this stuff real soon. I was looking for Yos's build thread. Is it still around?
Michael Fling
Supporter
His description started in my build log on page 4. The images are gone. He started with the 90 degree and acute angles first. Then he wrapped the tubing. His patterns established the length and end angles. The width was such that each piece started on the bottom, wrapped around the entire tube and then overlapped the beginning edge by about 1/2".
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/39723-fling-slc-build-thread-4.html
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/39723-fling-slc-build-thread-4.html
Scott
Lifetime Supporter
Dean,
Lots of build threads, including Dean's, are listed here:
https://slctech-slcbuilderswiki.pbworks.com/w/page/76443764/Build Threads
I have updated the Heat Mitigation page with the permalink Fling provided and I added a permalink for Yos as well but some of his pictures seem to be missing...
https://slctech-slcbuilderswiki.pbworks.com/w/page/76588457/Heat Mitigation
If you find other information please let us know so we can upload it...
Lots of build threads, including Dean's, are listed here:
https://slctech-slcbuilderswiki.pbworks.com/w/page/76443764/Build Threads
I have updated the Heat Mitigation page with the permalink Fling provided and I added a permalink for Yos as well but some of his pictures seem to be missing...
https://slctech-slcbuilderswiki.pbworks.com/w/page/76588457/Heat Mitigation
If you find other information please let us know so we can upload it...
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