Rear clam hinge

Due to my Graziano gearbox, I have to cut out the middle of the support bar for the rear clam, and also cut a clearance hole in the rear clam for the gearbox. I will have a reinforcement welded up that connects the two sides, hopefully not losing much rigidity. I've been thinking about changing the way the rear clam hinges so it opens farther for better access, and to keep the "bumper" from hitting the ground. The reinforcement frame I'm planning goes right through the area where new hinge mounts would be located. As I was designing in my mind how I wanted this to work, I realized that changing the pivot axis of the clam (raise it and move aft) will cause the wheel openings to rotate forward, and will interfere with the tires. I know people have changed how the rear opens, but I don't recall seeing any pictures. Anyone care to comment on what does and doesn't work?

A.J.
 

Fran Hall RCR

GT40s Sponsor
AJ...we have a new component that allows the street tail to hinge a full 90 degrees and not contact the ground..

Give us a call
 
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Nice! Thanks for the quick response. It just so happens that I will be in town next week so I think you may have yourself a quick sale. I'm eager to see the solution.

A.J.
 
Fran yes please do tell, any pics so we can see them at work ?
do they hold the clam from hitting the ground ?
any cutting or welding to the existing ?
do they change the way the clam arc's ?
Cheers,
 
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I spoke to one of the techs from the factory. The hinge is a replacement for what is currently bolted to the back side of the lower control arm. It attaches to the brace on the clam at the same general location, but the heim joint needs to face aft, not forward. It just so happens my brace came with nuts welded to both sides of the brace so that part will be simple. The new hinge is arched as it reaches from the base to the new heim joint location. The brace contacts the underside of the hinge, acting as a stop. My concern was the wheel opening contacting the tires. Some trimming of the wheel opening flange may be necessary. I spoke to Brittany, I'm waiting for an invoice so I can place my order. I'll post pics as soon as I get them installed.

A.J.
 
Hmmm ok so if your car is painted this might not be a working thing unless you can retouch the wheel wells if cutting to the flanges are required ? So yes A.J. please keep us posted I would like to see how these work but my car is in the shop right now in the process of getting painted in a color that can not be retouched. So I might be out of luck.
 
I think it would be ok. The depth of the flange would be all that's changed, not the shape of the wheel opening. Nothing visible from the outside...? We'll see.

You could paint the last centimeter on the edge of the wheel lip flanges black.

A.J.
 
Wow Fran, you (and your people) have outdone yourselves. I paid for these things at the end of the day yesterday, and they showed up at my house today. I was very surprised to see them already. It helps to live close...

Love the design, too. I considered making them myself but I am so glad I left it up to you.

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Unfortunately I won't have time to install them tonight. I will get to them sometime this weekend.

A.J.
 
Got the hinges installed last night. I'm very pleased, they work extremely well. No interferences. I didnt put the wheels on and put the car on the ground to test ground clearance and check for tire interference. That will have to come at a later time.

The Graziano gearbox is longer than the Porsche boxes, and modifications have to be made to the rear to accommodate it. I chose to reroute the 1"x1" bar above and behind the gearbox. Additional fiberglass needs to be removed for the clam to attach to the hinges, and to open. The pictures further down will show this. The top of the bar doesn't actually touch the body. Surprisingly, I got the clearances right on the first attempt:

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The hinge is fully open at 90 degrees. The hinges act as a stop:

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Notice the clearance cut on the body at the hinge attachments:

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Hinges are fully closed:

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2016-04-30~01.jpg


A.J.
 
Nice, Thanks for sharing AJ.
Im thinking that by moving the hinge point back a few more inch's might help with the way the clam opens and closes as well. slightly larger arc should allow it to come down on the dowel pins smoother.
 
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