New owner!

[Rich Kruger]

Hey guys I've been lurking awhile in hopes of joining the fraternity one day. Well recently I was able to purchase an unfinished SLC from a very talented but too busy gentleman that allowed me to purchase his project. A lot of quality work such as the exhaust and full stainless coolant pipes have already been done. It is an LS3 376/480 with a G50. I am excited beyond words to have a project of such excellent engineering and quality.
Personally I have been an ASE master tech for 40 years and have been involved in most aspects of campaigning a race car. Super Dirt Late Models as the last stint. Those days are over and I am now challenged with this project. There is still a lot to be done. First question: How do I figure out what chassis number I purchased? There are numbers on the certificate that came with the car but I can't figure out what # car it is. Thanks

 

[PeteB]

Easiest way is to call RCR.

 

[Rich Kruger]

Thanks Pete thats what I'll do

 

[John]

Welcome aboard. How about some pictures of your new project?

 

[Bill]

Rich,

I see you live in Northeast PA. I grew up just a few miles from you in Westfield NY.

I get back to Westfield occasionally to visit old friends. Do you mind if I stop by to see your progress?

Here is my thread on the SLC I completed -> Rumbles SLC Build

 

[Rich Kruger]

That would be great! It's always nice to get some first hand experience. Pictures coming soon.

 

[Rich Kruger]

Bill I've previously read your thread and it gave me pause as to building the car. The level of detail and design would intimidate most people. Your car is a jewel! My project won't be as exquisite, given my background it will be more of a race car / track day weapon that can be street driven.

 

[Bill]

Love to see it.

Check out this -> YouTube video I posted a few years back. The video covers tips on setting your approach, ways to save money, and accelerate any kit car build.

Bill I've previously read your thread and it gave me pause as to building the car. The level of detail and design would intimidate most people. Your car is a jewel! My project won't be as exquisite, given my background it will be more of a race car / track day weapon that can be street driven.

 

[Rich Kruger]

Next question. My car came with the power steering pump still on the LS engine. I've tried searching the threads for the pump delete in to no avail. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks

 

[PeteB]

Used engine that came with the car, or does your car actually have power steering installed?

 

[Doc Kaler]

Well....I tried to find Swaptech Manufacturing where I purchased mine, but they must be out of business.....

 

[Ken Roberts]

The power steering delete pulley/mount can be sourced from a Camaro ZL1 or Camaro Z28 with the 427 dry sump engine. The accessory drive system is on the same belt line as our SLCs. Those Camaros used a electric steering pump so GM came up with a delete pulley and bracket.

Here are the part numbers:
#12641124 (bracket)
#12629519 (pulley)
#11518633 (bolt) order 3

 

[Ken Roberts]

What accessory drive is currently on the engine? A low mount alternator is mandatory. The drive system must be on the "corvette belt line". If you aren't sure then you could post a picture or email it to me. There are a couple of different ways to go. RCR sells a complete drive setup that uses a cheaper Truck alternator I believe. The belt wrap isn't the best but no one has yet to complain about belt slippage.

 

[Rich Kruger]

The car has a new 376/480 LS3 that was purchased and shipped to RCR where it was installed before the car was shipped to the previous owner. With that in mind it appears the Camaro ZL1 idler pulley will be the way to go. Thanks for the info.

 

[Rich Kruger]

Ken, It does have the low mount alternator already so I found it confusing the p/s pump was still installed. The gentleman I bought it from said he had purchased the RCR belt drive accessory kit so I assumed this idler was part of the kit.

 

[Ken Roberts]

The RCR belt drive set up doesn't use the parts I listed.

 

[Cam]

I just cracked open the ps pump and pulled out the fins. Then packed it full of PS fluid. Instant idler, plus i use a stock ls3 belt. i may have added 6 oz compared to a regular idler but its been working for almost 15k miles..

 

[Rich Kruger]

I'm going to pull the power train out and separate the trans and engine to check the flywheel and clutch installation. So while its out I'll determine the best solution. Thanks guys! Your knowledge and experience in invaluable.

 

[Rich Kruger]

OK i have another situation. I've disassembled the R/F suspension and steering. I noted the rear chassis mount for the lower control arm didn't have washers under the four button head bolts that secure it to the tub. I was unable to get any of the bolts loose at all (applied some heat and used a restrained percussion instrument- a hammer).I have ALOT of experience in this area being a tech and service manager for many years. The use of button head bolts for this application befuddles me. I was a Mercedes Benz tech many years ago and wondered why the germans used so many hex head bolts as well. Either the former owner used some super loctite on them or electrolysis has frozen them in place. SO the question is do I really need to put washers under the bolts or leave well enough alone?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Washers aren't required due to the fact the U shaped bracket and the plate on the inside of the tub are steel.

Sounds like the previous owner used red loctite. Loctite shouldn't be used with a "nyloc" type nut as it eats the nylon in the nut.