Anodizing the Suspension

I am about to take apart and re-assemble the suspension and was thinking that it might be a good idea to anodize in clear the control arms and the spindles. Has anyone done that? Any ideas on pros and cons?
 
Hi Mark, I clear anodised the uprights and suspension on my RCR GT40 and am pleased with the results. Gives the appearance of plain aluminium but with corrosion protection and a slightly more durable surface. Also any cracks that might appear will be visible. Seems to be a better option than leaving a plain surface, paint or powder coat. On any steel suspension parts I was taught never to consider chrome playing because of embrittlement.
Cheers
Roger
 
Thanks for your comments on this. I will look into where I can get this done. Does anyone have an idea of cost? I would like to d othe control arms and the upright spindles.
 
I am going to be anodizing quite a bit and was thinking the suspension also. Price really depends on who you take it to. I found a local aerospace parts maker/finisher that would do a whole tub of parts for $40. This "tub" is supposedly big enough for me to fit 4 wheels and many small parts. I had another place tell me $300 for the wheels alone.
 
Thanks Scott. I will send some photos to the area shops and see what they say. I am polishing like mad to get them ready to ship out.

P.S. I now have the proper throttle body adapters made with automotive materials. Thanks for the heads-up on that.
 
Do keep in mind that anodizing does change the dimensions of the part.....so if you're anodizing parts that have things like bearings and bushings installed in them, those bearings and bushings will no longer fit properly after the part is anodized.
 
Thanks for all of your feedback/information. It appears that the dimension changes are not significant enough to make the suspension parts have difficulty being put back in place. Fran's office said "anodize away." The parts are polishing up beautifully! I will have photos soon.
 
I put out bids to a number of anodizers, and they all came back about the same price range, about $300 to $350. Interesting that two of them commented that they could block out the threads on the suspension components, to make the issue of re-assembly a minimal issue. They also commented that clear anodizing puts the thinnest layer on the original, as opposed to a colored coating, which adds more thickness. After polishing, they are off to the anodizer.
 
That coincides with what I deal with at work all the time. Colors will have some more build up than clear.

We have a lot of threaded area or tight tolerance press fits that get masked so the ano doesn't mess things up for assembly. (Medical devices)
 
I received the anodized suspension parts. I was warned that the process would change the surface from the polished surface that I did to a satin finish. They were right. The surface looks like a matte silver. If I had it to do again, I would either polish the parts and leave them, knowing I would need to use WD40 on them periodically. This is what Fran suggested. Or, I would have them anodized black. They certainly have a quality finish and will require no maintenance. They just do not stand out. Next time I will anodize them black.
 
In this months issue of Kit-Planes, they cover the weakness and other associated problems with anodizing. I was under the same impression as you guys that it didn't hurt strength, apparently we were wrong!
 
I'm working for an automotive firm, and we also using anodizing aluminium parts.

It all depends on the process which is used and the thickness of the layer resulting in the change of the properties.
I'm not a specialist, so I can not explain in deep.

Thing is, for automotive use, we also coat the aluminium afterwards.
An anodising layer is hard and protective, but fragile. It depends on the thickness of course. But for suspension use, the stone chips can crash the layer after some time.
So drive carefully I would say :laugh:
 
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