Front Nose - Headlights - Inner Fender

[Dan Carter]

Thought I had it solved, and then I didn't. Working to install the front inner fenders and discovered by conventional wisdom I need to move the splitter brace.

Now I am looking for techniques you used to run the headlight harness from the inner front inner radiator area, thru/over the aluminum side walls and past the nose vertical fiberglass support walls that allow you to lift/raise the nose off, and still have front inner fender wells installed.

I thought I saw some cleaver quick disconnect ideas but have never seen the wheel wells, nose, harness combinations all at once. I do not plan to design a rotating nose section, so I presume the standard design is to lift it off to gain access to the front nose section area for servicing.

Need some help here........stumped.

 

[Tom W]

cannon plug

I remember seeing the post your are speaking of. It used a cannon plug at the Blum head. I thought it was in Ken's or McFlings. I looked briefly and did not see it.

Anyways I had considered something like this

I'll look for the actual post later

 

[Dan Carter]

I did take a look at the multi pin connectors. A concern of course is the AMP draw of the halegon headlights. I think they max at 20 but I could be off a bit.

That leads me to simple trailer type disconnects as they are designed for up to 40 AMP but are a bit of a challenge to locate in a convenient spot for easy access. While not the optimal solution they might work, but someone out there has got to have a really clean and well thought out solution.

So I am fishing. :thumbsup:

Thanks

 

[Ken Roberts]

The "AMP" brand connector I used for the front lighting disconnect for my hood is a 16 pin connector. Four of those pins are very large and can handle the high current for headlights.
The female part is #207485-1
The male part is #207486-1
You can purchase all the parts to make up a complete connector with pins here: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/207485-1/?qs=tFu%2bAGV2KC4EwPPea2acqA==



You can see that four of the pins are a spade type of connector for high current. Up to a 12 gauge wire can be crimped on.

 

[Ken Roberts]

The 7 pin AMP connector assembly for my rear lighting is much smaller due to the low current draw at the tail lights. I flip down the rear license plate to access the connector. My rear hood mounts the same as Fran's SLC race car. It does not swing up.

 

[Dan Carter]

Ken

Compact and can handle the AMPs. I'm taking a look at it.

Question for you. Does your nose lift up to remove or did you hinge it? If you lift, where did you route your headlight harnesses? Where did you mount the quick disconnect?

 

[Ken Roberts]

I haven't decided how to handle the mounting of the front hood yet but most likely it will be "lift off". I plan to epoxy these 316 stainless 10/32" fasteners to the underside of the hood. The wiring harness will be supported with "P' clamps at the stainless fasteners. The "AMP" connector will be mounted to the top of the splitter below the passenger headlight location. Reaching in from the front right brake duct hole (in the nose) I'll be able to disconnect the wiring to the front lighting.

Here is a link to the bond in studs. https://www.mcmaster.com/#97590a561/=157sjvv

 

[Dan Carter]

Interesting idea on the studs. I was thinking about ducting those from scoops on past the fender wells so reaching in to release the harness connectors is a bigger challenge. I may have to set the quick release up in scoop area in front of the radiator but have yet to explore it entirely.

Like they say, necessity is the mother of invention........and man am I inventing.....lol

 

[Tom W]

Like they say, necessity is the mother of invention........and man am I inventing.....lol

If necessity is the Mother of invention does that make financial struggles the Father?

 

[Dan Carter]

Then we need to have a discussion with Dad! :laugh:

 

[Tom W]

I tried to call him for you.

 

[Tom W]

» img_dan

 

[Dan Carter]

Good one.