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The SLC Clubhouse RCR SLC Build Logs and Technical Questions

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Old 16th May 2017, 11:02 PM   #41
Cam
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Re: CamT's build thread

It's a good idea Jack but I was pretty bent on going with powdercoating. I wanted to get the kit so I could use it on other parts of the car. The stenciling is the way to go but in order for me to remove them while the second coat was hot meant a good chance of me screwing it up while the powder was still "wet". I figured I would only get one shot at getting each caliper done so wanted to decrease my opportunities for screwing up . The process to remove powdercoat once it's cured is a bit nasty so I was trying to avoid at all costs.
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Old 16th May 2017, 11:14 PM   #42
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Re: CamT's build thread

I understand that Cam, good luck!
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Old 17th May 2017, 10:18 AM   #43
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Re: CamT's build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamT View Post
I'm surprised the brakleen had such an effect on the finish, I used to go through bottles of this stuff cleaning my cars - but that was before I got keen on detailing and my OCD levels were much more in check.
Seems all of those brake cleaners have changed over the last several years. So don't assume because it was OK 5 years ago it is OK now.
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Old 31st May 2017, 08:03 PM   #44
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Re: CamT's build thread

With suspension installed and wheels hung I proceeded to do a rough alignment of my wheels and body. I wanted to see how the wheels would line up with the wheel wells and wanted to get the suspension close to final before getting too deep into the build. How the wheels position might impact my decision on whether any body modifications might be needed, especially at the wheel arches.

No real surprises here though I did come across a few handy tips I wanted to share:

- best to start with the front LCAs positioned with the inner rod ends spun almost all the way in. I originally positioned them further out; after rough alignment the wheels poke out too far from the body. With my rod ends all the way in the wheels are just about right.
- cutting and positioning the front UCA inner tie rod bolts so the heads are facing away from the shock facilitates easy camber/toe adjustments without needing to remove the shock.
- I used wood blocks cut a my desired rife height and taped them to the underside of my chassis to support it while making initial settings. Having no load in the springs makes it easy to disconnect the UCAs, move the wheel around, then bolt it back together again.

More details in the link below.

A shout out to the Tenhulzen folks, I've been using their alignment tool and find it's really easy to use. It's well built and versatile. I believe a forum member's son designed the tool.

I'm not sure how many times I've installed and removed the suspension arms now but it's been a good number of times. It's been really fun getting to know how to adjust things and working with the hardware.

Unfortunately the next phase of my home reno has started and I've got to put her back into hibernation mode for a bit.





Some body alignment pics:







I had a discrepancy between my rear wheel positions, could never figure it out. Should have enough adjustment in the suspension to make this look fine with the right alignment settings.





Tenhulzen tool:



Tucked away:



14. It’s all about the stance – Cam's Superlite SLC
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Old 16th October 2017, 09:59 AM   #45
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Re: CamT's build thread

Phase 2 of construction has come and gone, and we're getting deep into phase 3. In the meantime I've been making tortoise like progress on the car.

I spent a LOT of time working on suspension alignment and getting everything setup so it was square and equally set left to right/front to back. Ultimately I've settled on 4.5"F/5"R for ride heights. I was a bit cornered on this - I didn't want the front to be too low due to this car being primarily street but I did want to maintain at least 0.5" of rake front to back. With the rear at 5" the wheel well clearance is starting to get a bit exaggerated at the top. Once I get the car rolling under its own power I may revisit either dropping the front 0.5" or raising the rear another 0.5".

Basic stuff like routing the brake lines and installing the brake calipers are complete! I still need to tap holes in the rear uprights for the e-brake. If I'd been more with it I'd have done this prior to having the parts anodized, when the upright was easier to maneuver. Now that I've got it all back together I'm going to drill and tap in-situ using some type of drill jig. Hindsight's 20/20 they say ...

The really big update is the fuel system's complete and the motor has been installed!







I followed Fran's recommendation and sourced the Walbro and Bosch pumps. I also went with the Starlite lines from Aeroquip. These are a real pleasure to work with over the stainless stuff I've used in the past. Getting the fittings onto the hoses wasn't all that difficult and the lines are pliable enough that getting relatively tight bends is achievable. Highly recommended!

Obligatory shot of the front accessories:


While I was swapping the oil pan over from the Camaro style pan I also installed an Improved Racing scraper and baffle kit. It's a real high quality looking piece; their website also shows data comparing this against the factory oil pan configuration and there's a startling improvement. I don't plan to drive the car real hard on a track but having the added insurance is good for peace of mind.



Before pulling the Graz to make room for the engine I chopped the tip off the prop shaft. At some point in the future this gearbox will get updated with the drop gears from JBurer and at that time the shaft will be removed altogether. I didn't want to grind the oil pan since it's a load bearing member on the LS3, even if the grinding is minor.



The motor is in!



More details on my blog:

15. Just keep kicking the ball! – Cam's Superlite SLC
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Old 18th October 2017, 11:45 AM   #46
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Re: CamT's build thread

Sorry if this is already noted as I didn't have time to read all the posts; Cam I found that finding the centerline from under the chassis was the only way to find the true center of the car and mark it. Then bring the centerline using the laser over the top from the ends and again using the laser mark it over the top. This is the only way to know what, is what....and why IMO.
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Old 16th November 2017, 12:45 AM   #47
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Re: CamT's build thread

I had a very nice visit with Ken last month while I was home visiting my family. It turns out he's only a few minutes away from my sister. Such an odd coincidence to find an SLC in a place like Winnipeg - it's basically in the middle of nowhere and Ken lives OUTSIDE of the middle of nowhere. How do you do it Ken?! Incidentally the first snowfall happened on the day we left, I was relieved our flights did not get canceled! Anyway - Ken's got some really trick stuff on his car, it really redefines "OEM". It'll be quite the machine when Ken finishes (assuming he doesn't buy his next car before this is complete)!

A fair amount of work these past few weeks getting the rest of the powertrain installed. I purchased the optional Graziano completion kit. Install of the clutch was fairly straightforward. My father-in-law had a clutch alignment tool that happened to have the right pin diameter so no need to make or buy a new tool. The transaxle install went fairly smoothly as well. I was super nervous once we got the transaxle mated due to the very unbalanced state of the car. With nothing in the front of the car and everything in the rear (and overhanging my rear lift pads) I figured the front was sure to come up off the lift. I was relieved to see the car was still balanced enough that the car remained stable on my quickjack lift. I have to really lean onto the transaxle to get the front end to come up off the pads. Full disclosure, I've got a large wooden block under the transaxle until I can add more components to the front as a precaution. I think this is the most unbalanced the car will be so I was happy to see that I didn't have to lower the car and reposition the lift.

Next up came the axles; there's a short and long one, it's pretty obvious if you've got them flipped . The Graz is offset to the right where the half shafts are located. I was able to source some OEM axle heat shields from eBay; these are used on a ton of different Audi/VW applications so they're relatively inexpensive. PN 8E0501721/8E051713; the shields are symmetric so you need 2, 1 for each side. A little sand blasting and my used set looked good as new. Thanks to JBurer for the PN hookup!

I had gone around in circles for quite some time trying to make a decision on where to mount the battery. I eventually decided it would go in the back, behind the passenger and opposite the fuel system. I had a really tough time packaging the battery because I wanted to use that same space for a 3qt Accusump. Word to the wise, stick with a 2qt, this 3qt was a real PITA to position! I've seen a lot of installations where the accusump body is horizontal to the car but the manufacturer recommends it be tilted to avoid trapping an air bubble. Plumbing and getting the Accusump and associated lines/hardware installed also took a fair amount of planning to look right. I wanted to avoid running my lines haphazardly and as I've been going along I've been trying to keep things looking neat. Since the rear glass looks right down on the engine compartment I've been trying to keep it looking "good".

I've also finally started to close out the fuel tank compartment. I've been holding off on applying my Damplifier because I wanted to get ALL holes located and drilled before applying the stuff. I had to drill through the stuff because I had missed locating a hole and it really gums up the drill bit and makes it a bit of a mess. I opted to use the Second Skin "system" and am also using their Luxury Liner Pro for sound absorption and Thermal Block for heat deflection/insulation. The products are really high quality, hopefully they are effective! It's one of those things you never really know because you can't do a real A/B comparison. In my blog I have a short discussion on why I chose Thermal Block over the Lava Mat product.

With that, fuel system is finally complete apart from that last line connecting my regulator to the fuel rail. Boy, it sure took a long time to get to this stage!

More details in my latest blog post: 16. Time to give the beast legs (and other stuff) Cam's Superlite SLC













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Old Today, 05:16 AM   #48
Cam
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Re: CamT's build thread

Happy Thanksgiving!

A short progress update for today. I've just about got my brakes fully installed. I need to make a small plate to stabilize the rear flex line then position and bolt my pedals in. I'm saving the pedal work until I get deeper into the build when I'll be able to better evaluate for ergonomics.

I'd say the two most challenging aspects of installing the braking system were figuring out how to tap my uprights for the rear e-brake calipers and getting the flex line routing sorted.

For the e-brake calipers, recall I had my uprights anodized. I disassembled my suspension down to their individual components and should have tapped my uprights at that time. Unfortunately I didn't and it's all back together again. This meant I'd have to drill and tap for the e-brake calipers while the suspension was fully assembled on the car. Getting the holes properly positioned and oriented relative to the angled upright face made me pretty nervous. In the end I was able to complete this by making a small and simple drill guide. I was also able to successfully NOT break through the front or rear milled pockets - yay!





For the flex lines, I tried just about every conceivable combination and I could never get the supplied lines to work for me. I had concerns about twisting the line and having it floating out in space or getting tangled with a wheel or the coil spring. Ultimately my solution had me procuring longer flex lines and a new banjo fitting to get everything situated to my satisfaction.



More details and additional photos on my blog: 17. Braking news – Cam's Superlite SLC
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