Ground Clearance: SPF vs 60´s GT 40

[Victors]

Hi Folks.

Looks to me that most of the SPF 40 are siting too tall from the ground. They look to have a higher ground clearance than the originals even on what they claim to be the lower setting. As they claim that the chassis, engine and transmission are the same as in the originals, How can this be?

As food for thought, I am attaching 3 pictures of two original cars in which you can see the oil pan and bellhousing flush with the chassis, and two pictures (bottom) (one from the forum) in which you can see the SPF ZF bellhousing protruding 2/3 inches below it.
How can this be possible?
Any light?

[Jim Downard]

I bet that would be a nice sound to hear if it were to snag something very rigid.
OOOUUUCCCCHHHHH!!!!!

[chuck smith]

the originals used dry sumps so it is easy to see why the pan would be positioned that way. The bell is a different story, of course they used a different trans and maybe a smaller race clutch.

[BPermer]

That's a function of the engine, pan and trans being used... not so much a SPF issue.

Brian

[Victors]

Most originals (except MK II´s) were wet sumps, as the SPF 40. Transmisson on the production MKI´s was the ZF (in the MK II was the T 44, and early MK I´s had the weak Colotti).

[Jac Mac]

Original small blocks used wet sump with small dia ring gear & starter reposition from the std Ford 289. Big Block Mk 2 FE used std FE dia Ring gear with Crank centerline slightly higher in chassis.

Not sure that its really an SPF problem, dont they sell their cars as 'rollers' with the owner to spec out the engine/trans combo they wish to use. Still gonna be a few tears and finger pointing the day that 'rigid' bellhousing contacts a solid obstacle like a kerb channel etc.

Jac Mac

[OhioMark]

Someone should try to fabricate a skid-plate over the leading edge of
the bellhousing and/or entire sump to absorb the eventual contact.

Mark

[Dutton]

Man, that looks nasty, I mean expensive...

Even with the bellhousing protruding as far as it does, I'm betting the flywheel would be completely out of the wind should the bellhousing be trimmed just a bit. One could even apply Marks suggestion and add a thin skid plate for a little piece of mind.

Had a similar issue in a FF years ago. A slight 'adjustment' to the bellhousing worked like a charm.

Best,

T.

[David Briggs]

That appears too low, but the engine and trans height should be adjustable.

[SpyderMike]

The bottom picture is mine and is low looking up. Makes it seems to hang lower than it actually does.

Mike

[Frank Catt]

We have run a GTD both on track and road for some 5 years now with a 120mm ground clearance to the chassis and with the wet sump 40mm below the chassis ( i e 80mm clearance to sump pan ) I got a bit twitchy about the sump pan hitting the road on some of the more extreme roads we have driven, including the Isle of Man hill climbs, and made a sump guard / shield below the sump pan, had it specially painted to show any witness to grounding, and in the first year never made a mark on it, so it got thrown over the hedge and never used again. Frank

[Daryl Adams]

This is about the same bellhousing clearance that exists with my Mangusta. I've managed to keep that bellhousing unmarked, but you do have to be vigilant. Because the bellhousing sits somewhat between the rear wheels you can cross smallish mountable curbs, but only if you take them on a perpedicular line. I've found that the biggest risk comes from potholes, or pavement with an exaggerated "crown". In my part of the world that means tip-toeing about at times. These really are smooth road cars.

[Victors]

I do not think you can or should adjust engine and transmission height.
Frank has worked with original cars.
Frank, how do they solve that problem? Do they adjust engine and transmission height? Is the bell housing smaller? (race cars usually have smaller cluthches and flywheels)

[Mike Drew]

Originally Posted by daryl adams

This is about the same bellhousing clearance that exists with my Mangusta. I've managed to keep that bellhousing unmarked, but you do have to be vigilant.

Darryl,

When it comes to Mangusta (and presumably GT40) bellhousing bashing, there's those that have and those that will. If you should happen to get it all wrong in your Mangusta and smash your bellhousing, you are SCREWED. You might scrape it, but I've also known people who SHATTERED them upon striking something in the roadway.

It is VERY easy to fabricate an angled skidplate which attaches to the bottom of the bellhousing (or just in front of it) and angles upward, to a crossmember behind the oil pan. That way, if you are about to bottom out, the car is gently raised up and over the obstacle.

I wouldn't dream of driving a Mangusta (or GT40) without that kind of protection.

[Daryl Adams]

Originally Posted by Mike Drew

Darryl,

When it comes to Mangusta (and presumably GT40) bellhousing bashing, there's those that have and those that will. If you should happen to get it all wrong in your Mangusta and smash your bellhousing, you are SCREWED. You might scrape it, but I've also known people who SHATTERED them upon striking something in the roadway.

It is VERY easy to fabricate an angled skidplate which attaches to the bottom of the bellhousing (or just in front of it) and angles upward, to a crossmember behind the oil pan. That way, if you are about to bottom out, the car is gently raised up and over the obstacle.

I wouldn't dream of driving a Mangusta (or GT40) without that kind of protection.

You are right of course, Mike. I actually have been working on a bolt-on skid plate that can be removed for oil pan/oil filter access.

[Richard]

The original bellhousings were much smaller and used multi disc clutches. Can't speak too the oil pan issues.

See my post:

SPF MKI, Bellhousings and all the other little stuff!

Thanks for posting the pictures on how the original bellhousings used the big ears on the bottom.

[Steve Briscoe]

Legendary Motorsport in Castle Rock, Colorado has produced a smaller bell housing and flywheel assembly that keeps the bottom of the car flat. They are on the web at Legendary Motorsport Or, give them a call at (303) 688-1002.

[Steve C]

SPF P2125 (FE powered) has a skid/ deflection plate installed.... I have the same clearance Frank Catt mentioned above (80mm to the ground) at front of oil pan...FE engine sits level (intake milled to be level as well) and although crank centerline is higher than a Windsor install and the bottom of the bellhousing is just about in line with the underbody the Avaid oil pan although flush with undercarrage in rear sits lower in front..... I thought about a custom Armando pan but, like the idea of the oil pan being lower in front to insure oil available to the pump in all conditions...... so to be safe a skid plate was installed to protect the front of the pan....Like Frank; no problems here but, having the plate is comforting. Steve

[Curtis]

Orig. Spec sheet's show the following:


Suspension geometry :
Ride Heights, front ........... 4 3/4" - 5"
rear .......... 4.7/8" - 5.1/8"


Minimum Ground Clearance 4in. 101.6mm


Hope this help's ?