Upgrades/options and mods to P2125

[Steve C]

P2125 "finished" (that's a laugh as we never seem to "finish our cars" but it's finished untill next winter when more mods are planned).

Thought the gang might like to see what has been done to date:

NACA canards and newer car (my early car didn't come from factory with this) functional NACA ducting upgrade by Olthoff...SS meshed and nylon screened firewall inlet (to prevent debris from entering the A/C and heater system) by me.

More in seperate posts.

Steve

[Foowowee]

C'mon, Steve. Let's see the rest.

Mike

[Steve C]

Halon and small Al storage box (SPF horn removed from original location and replaced by 2 Hella horns hidden) by Olthoff, faux oil tank by Steve and Lynn Miner.

FORD side stripe graphic by Steve, front clip receiver plate by Olthoff

External battery posts by Olthoff

Al storage boxes with hinged covers by Olthoff

Rubber lined inner fender wells by Olthoff

[Steve C]

Side and rear clip marker lights by Steve and Lynn Miner

Wiring run drivers door

Wiiring run passenger door

Inside view rear clip top marker (hardware fab by Lynn Miner, install by Steve)

Relay wiring for 2 rear clip marker lights (SPF factory installed dead end wire gauge OK for one ea door lights but, when installing 2 additional rear clip lights current draw is such that need to either rewire from fuse or do as i did and run a pilot line from the dash switch to a fused relay)

[Steve C]

Rear clip pin locator/retainer by Olthoff, cable run clean up by Steve

Turkey pan and continuous rubber clamshell to tub fix (early cars only) by Olthoff

CAV ammeter by Steve (NOS stock purchase from EBAY UK seller...much better than SPF stock meter as it is industrial grade meter rated for 60A and has nutted studs for wiring tie in vs the factory 50A gauge quick connect blades...no illumination so I drilled a hole in top of gauge housing, installed proper size rubber grommet and used SPF supplied plastic socket with a red bulb condom over the clear bulb).....Switch legend plates by Lynn Miner

FE engine from front and rear bulkhead glass upgrade (factory is plastic) by Olthoff

Front hood prop rod by Olthoff to Lynn Miner design

[Steve C]

Brake pad upgrade by Steve with "NEW" pads....Olthoff now has "better" street friendly pads available

ZF T44 look alike cover (specially foundered and machined to replicate T44 but, prim ary reason was to move mounting ears foreward in order to preclude need for mounting spacers) by Pedro and Steve, also cover breather by Olthoff

Dual independantly controlled bulkhead mounted fuel delivery pumps with faux covers (these pumps are fed by a seperate Carter located in the left rear spoonsoon cavity via a swirl pot to insure constant supply) by Olthoff

Inertia switch wired directly to dash fuel pump switch by Steve...battery isolator (ground cut off) by factory

Door handle (strap) idea Lynn Miner..Steve install

[Steve C]

Gated center rod shift by Olthoff

Rod shift mech this and next 3 pics

[Steve C]

Halon pull (replaces power plug) by Olthoff

MSD 6ALN (glyptol sealed PWB) install by Olthoff

High output and fan shroud upgrade by Olthoff

FE front RH view with belt adjust for alt

FAV plate and hand held Halon by Steve

[Steve C]

First 3 pics of Lucas mirror installed by Steve

Lucas NOS mirror purchased on EBAY UK (chrome perfect, some minor scratches on glass and some silvering defects...found an outfit in Calif that did great job of resilvering annd polishing glass to new, retrofitted Jaguar mount with Cushman stub and mount...If anyone wants to know contact for resilverer/polisher and or proceedure for disassembly of the Lucas and adapt to Cushman mt I will elaborate)

Drivers and passengers seat bolsters by Olthoff (seatbacks carpeted to preclude foam breakdown) by Steve

[Steve C]

Rear view camera (it workks!) and black power plug covers (from Toyota parts to replace SPF red covers by Steve

Dead pedal by Olthoff (custom not factory that is too high and interfers with clutch op)

Accusump control switch by Steve

Center steering wheel boss and badge...Boss by Frank Catt, badge from Fran Kress

Rear clamshell thermal spray by Olthoff (used to insulate truck engine covers...spray on not adhesive backed sheeting that can come loose)

[Steve C]

External clutch slave mt sourced by Steve installed by Olthoff

Accusump installed under fake left storage box floor with control valve and low oil pressure cut off switch to fuel pumps

Accusump charge gauge by Olthoff and faux ZF oil pump by Lynn Miner

Plexi engine cover and Aluminum eyebrow upgrade by Olthoff

Top view of Al eyebrows and raised side mirrors (SPF Daytona mounts retroffited) by Olthoff

[Steve C]

Odyssey sealed battery

Swirl pot sump (Large Canton filter, seperate Carter pump taking suction from tanks and constantly filling/overflowing the swirl tank return to tanks providing constant supply regardless of down shift of car from horizontal) by Olthoff

[Steve C]

Snap vents (these really work great; even with SPF A/C outside vent option selected the snap vents bring in a fresh flow of outside air) by Steve with thanks for Lynn Miner for loan of hole saw

Upgrade polished Al spinners and hub caps with square face to match wider throat of the Al spinners..Olthoff upgrade parts.

[chuck smith]

Steve, do the aluminum eyebrows do a better job of pushing the door down onto the rubber seal? Also, how did you protect the paint on the door that slides under the eyebrow? thanks; chuck

[Victors]

Steve,

Where did you get the snap vents from? Are they easy to instal?
Thanks

[Steve C]

Chuck,
In my case doors seal well against the rubber w/o the eyebrows and clear the eyebrows when closing and when closed (no contact); doors shut easily and fully with little force (one thing I found is to glue foreward edge of door weatherstrip at base of windshield pillar just before it goes verticle and with this fix door closes much easier). I wanted them for "the look" ( I don't like the plastic) and in case door lips rose up running. Door edges under the eyebrows are protected with 3M. Went with clear coated Al as was difficult to match stripes, felt the paint edges would rub off and like the silver look (matches the other silver accent pieces)

Doors can be adjusted at hinge pionts and at striker. I have had both doors off and on a few times to run side marker wiring..Easy; there is a knurled top pin that runs through top and bottom hinges and through door with a rubber insert top and bottom...Suggest if you align the doors that you keep the pin installed and adjust top and bottom hinges with the striker removed untill door seal correct then install and adjust the striker last.

Steve