None Locking Gas Cap
- Thread starter RWoerz
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Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
I hate the fiddly gas cap keys too, Jack. Especially when I had to buy another from Olthoff when I lost the key($20.00+shipping).
That's when I went to the local NAPA store to replace the caps. The counter girl helped me open the blister packed gas caps until we found the one that fit, and only charged me for the pair I bought.
I was impressed that she knew the difference between my GT40 and the 5 or so Ford GTs here in Hattiesburg. So there is at least one teenager here who was appropriately raised by a gearhead father.
I'll see if there is a PN on the gas caps to give you.
Jack
That's when I went to the local NAPA store to replace the caps. The counter girl helped me open the blister packed gas caps until we found the one that fit, and only charged me for the pair I bought.
I was impressed that she knew the difference between my GT40 and the 5 or so Ford GTs here in Hattiesburg. So there is at least one teenager here who was appropriately raised by a gearhead father.
I'll see if there is a PN on the gas caps to give you.
Jack
turns out my locking gas caps don't seem to lock...I just unscrew them and they come off....
That's how mine work, don't lock anyway so why not use them, but make sure they have a vent capability to prevent vacume lock as described in an earlier thread and is best to fill with both caps off. I estimate fuel needed (gauge in mine is pretty accurate) then fill 1/2 load in one then finish fueling the in the other tank and get a fast fill using this proceedure.
Steve P2125
Steve P2125
I use a similar techinique.
I just drove my car another 1100 miles on a trip and the gas gauge now won't go above 2/3 full. Below 2/3 is tracks fine ...hmmm.
I just drove my car another 1100 miles on a trip and the gas gauge now won't go above 2/3 full. Below 2/3 is tracks fine ...hmmm.
My gas gauge runs from 1/2 full to empty but is never correct as far as I can tell. I did find a cap that will work but I'll have to cut the ears off to make it fit under the big cap. Not so hot so if anyone has a part number for one that fits the first time I'm still looking.
Also the first and only time I tried to put gas in the right side tank it spit back as soon as I try to put gas in. I stuck a scope down the filler spout and the flapper is open and the tank is about 1/4 full, Just another mystery to solve.
Also the first and only time I tried to put gas in the right side tank it spit back as soon as I try to put gas in. I stuck a scope down the filler spout and the flapper is open and the tank is about 1/4 full, Just another mystery to solve.
Re: Non-Locking Gas Cap
Now for the answer to my own NON Locking gas cap question. I went to NAPA but I couldn't get the cute little gal to help me but I did find what I think is the right gas cap. It's NAPA part number 703-1048. I had to bend the ears that stick up over a bit to get them to fit under the large cap but the cap fit very nicely.
I was about to take the car apart to figure out where my gas smell was coming from when I opened the large gas cap on the driver’s side to take the locking cap in to find a match. There was gas all around the cap, there is that assume thing again. I assumed the factory cap was working correctly. Problem solved, I hope.
Now for the answer to my own NON Locking gas cap question. I went to NAPA but I couldn't get the cute little gal to help me but I did find what I think is the right gas cap. It's NAPA part number 703-1048. I had to bend the ears that stick up over a bit to get them to fit under the large cap but the cap fit very nicely.
I was about to take the car apart to figure out where my gas smell was coming from when I opened the large gas cap on the driver’s side to take the locking cap in to find a match. There was gas all around the cap, there is that assume thing again. I assumed the factory cap was working correctly. Problem solved, I hope.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Re: Non-Locking Gas Cap
Anything that past the inner cap is supposed to drain down the drain hole. Any idea why it didn't? And then of course, what's gas doing up there anyway?
Anything that past the inner cap is supposed to drain down the drain hole. Any idea why it didn't? And then of course, what's gas doing up there anyway?
It's a mystery to me too. It's a nice thought that they included a drain which is necessary considering how poorly the cars take on gas. Very slow to fill and it easily overflows because of the design.
As you can see from the first picture of an original car there isn't a problem getting gas into the tank however is does lead to the problem shown in the GT40 crash test where the front wheels are pushed back into the tank and gas going everywhere.
Back to our issue, the next picture show the filler neck just below what's normally visible. There are three rubber lines that come up to that area, two help vent the tank as it's being filed, the other is the drain line which exits out the bottom of the car. If you look in the lower right of the picture of the open sponson you will see the other end of the tube as it exits just to the side of the gas tank (when it's there). I'm not sure what the problem might be. I haven't pulled the fiberglass side cover that runs under the door along the full lenght of the gas tank area. When they put that part on they might kink or block that end of that line. Otherwise it's a straight shot.
WARNING Will Robertson: Just so you know, the filler necks a not easy to put back in after they've been pulled out mainly due to the routing of the three rubber lines. I've included a few more pictures a couple of which show the flapper valve that keeps fuel from surging up to into filler neck. And yes you do have to take the front suspension apart to get the gas tanks out and no there wasn't much of the car I didn't take apart.
As you can see from the first picture of an original car there isn't a problem getting gas into the tank however is does lead to the problem shown in the GT40 crash test where the front wheels are pushed back into the tank and gas going everywhere.
Back to our issue, the next picture show the filler neck just below what's normally visible. There are three rubber lines that come up to that area, two help vent the tank as it's being filed, the other is the drain line which exits out the bottom of the car. If you look in the lower right of the picture of the open sponson you will see the other end of the tube as it exits just to the side of the gas tank (when it's there). I'm not sure what the problem might be. I haven't pulled the fiberglass side cover that runs under the door along the full lenght of the gas tank area. When they put that part on they might kink or block that end of that line. Otherwise it's a straight shot.
WARNING Will Robertson: Just so you know, the filler necks a not easy to put back in after they've been pulled out mainly due to the routing of the three rubber lines. I've included a few more pictures a couple of which show the flapper valve that keeps fuel from surging up to into filler neck. And yes you do have to take the front suspension apart to get the gas tanks out and no there wasn't much of the car I didn't take apart.
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
That too is how I became great friends with my front suspension. Later on I wondered if I could have gotten there simply by undoing the upper and lower ball joints (which I did anyway for other reason) and setting the upright complete with brake rotor, caliper, etc., "aside." Too late for that experiment now...
IIRC the drain hose at the bottom "slips" onto a plastic fitting that is embedded in the floor of the sponson. Just for the sake of "taking everything apart" I tried to pull the hose off that fitting but it was taking forces I didn't like so I moved on. However, at worst we should be able to test that hose by pulling it off the filler neck and blowing through it. Or perhaps using that conical rubber fitting you get with a mighty-vac and sticking that in the drain hole and blowing. Or by pouring some mineral spirits around the inner cap and seeing where it all goes... Possibly that fitting is just blocked and "probing" it with a screw driver, drill bit, etc. from the bottom would clear it up.
Another "interesting" thing I discovered is that the o-ring sealed, spring loaded-lower half of the Le Mans cap is retained to its upper half by one flat-head allen screw in the center. That screw basically limits the spring-loaded travel. As such, when the Le mans cap is closed the screw is completely unloaded and could happilly unscrew itself and fall out, such that the next time you open the Le Mans cap it all falls apart onto the front fender. I'm kinda surprised nobody's reported that phenomenon. Maybe everyone else's is loctited or something. Or we're all incredibly lucky.
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