Rear Clip

Mark · 23rd April 2010, 09:18 PM

My better half has voluteered to help me to remove the rear clip to start work on the car. Question is, how much does it weigh and we'll she be real surprised how heavy it is?

Thanx
Mark

Bill Musarra · 23rd April 2010, 10:32 PM

Mark,
Just guessing I would say around 75-100lbs. I have no one to help me so I have to use redneck engineering to do all these sort of things. To get the clip off I use the engine hoist and cotton shipping straps(tie down straps). mounted through the wheel wells and lined up between the rear window and the top exhaust vent. You will find the median point where all is balanced. Just go slow and adjust the straps as the clip begins to lift. If you have enough straps, you can tie off the front/rear so that it doesn't tip so much. Pull the straps tight as you can. The straps will stretch some and you may have to pad your hoist to keep the rear from bumping as you pull away from the body over any protruding surfaces. I have rear coolers so that increases the height. I also have the car mounted on a jack stand to keep from having to bend over so much. You don't want to know the tricks I used to get the spider and frame so I could do horizontal TIG welding on vertical surfaces.

Bill

Mark · 24th April 2010, 11:14 AM

Thanx much for info. Got rear clip off this AM (with wife's help!).

Since I need to get cross-member to Dennis O for 427 FE mods,when I take the cross member off, do I need to store the car during the build off its wheels (ie, blocks under lift points) to keep the chassis/frame from having too much weight applied and warping without cross-member present, or can car sit forever with no problems having cross member off?

Thanx
Mark

DaveM · 24th April 2010, 12:09 PM

Just to be prudent I would at least support the rear with blocks under the chassis.

Alan Watkins · 24th April 2010, 05:20 PM

FWIW here's my electric-Redneck version of Bill's solution to solo R&R-ing the clips: two $80 Harbor Freight electric hoists sliding on an 18' long pipe so I can shuttle the clips forward and back (i.e. out of the way) as needed without taking up valuable floor space.

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Jim Craik · 24th April 2010, 06:33 PM

Mutt, I have a SPF MK1, and the rear clip is very heavy, two fairly strong people can remove it but it is heavy. Putting it back on requires several very strong people, be careful.

Richard · 25th April 2010, 02:21 PM

Personally I would prefer a skyhook but lacking one of those I've removed and reinstalled the rear clip of my SPF MK1 by my self but it requires mechanical help. The first time I put the rear clip on by myself I used a moving pad and a two wheel dolly. Not a process I would recommend or ever do again.

With a little preparation an engine hoist works very well. I used some lifting straps from Harbor Freight threaded through the carburetor cold air intakes. It balances very well and is a straight lift to remove it from the car (don't forget to unplug the tail light wiring). If you have the room just leave it on the hoist with some padding, if you don't transfer it to a hook hung from the ceiling otherwise you have to deal with banging it into the legs of the hoist when you put it down and pick it back up. You can ask me how I know but then I would have to lie.

Mutt, you can R&R the front clip by yourself but it would be a piece of cake with two people, I lay out a moving pad in front of the car, remove the nostril, unhook the wiring, undo the two latches and wiggle it off, the rear part of the clip with the latches just make it over the top of the tires. You may have to pull out slightly in the area of the rear latches so they can be lifted past the chassis parts in that area. Just remember to go slow and easy. It's much easer with the front tires off but then you have to put the front of the car on blocks which is kind of a hassle. At some point it will slid off the car and on to the pad. Its a little heavy for one person to move around but it's doable.

I started a project some time ago like Alan's that will use a barn door rail system but like many other projects it's currently on hold because the car is now registered and the weather is just too nice. In fact it's time for a little road trip right now.

I found my build to be very rewarding, a few of use have done their own and know how hard it is at times. If you need information or just encouragement we're here, just don't ask for money because after my build I'm ready for the poor farm, but after you drive it the first time you'll know why you did it. Best of luck.

Rick Muck- Mark IV · 25th April 2010, 03:32 PM

Front clip with one person....-do-able, I have done it several times but there is some "pucker factor" involved as you can drop/whack/hit stuff that will bugger the paint and you will then do the "Why didn't I get help?" thing.

The rear clip is harder as there is no easy one person place to grab hold. I am building a roller cart that stores both front and rear clips while we do chassis work. This way, the clips are secured to the cart and can be rolled WAY out of the way to prevent the inevitible "OOPS" that we all do, but all regret!

No issue with the rear crossmember being off the chassis so long as there is no engine/transaxle installed. You will need to jack the chassis in the center of the lower crossmember to re-install most likely, not due to chassis bending out of shape but that the chassis naturally has some "spring" in it and the upper holds it where it needs to be.

Richard · 25th April 2010, 05:16 PM

Rick, the cart idea is a good one as long as you have room to store them. I used my living room to store mine. Not the best idea if you have women folk about. I can see the rear clip sliding off the back of the car and onto a cart just slick as you please, great idea. If you could share some pictures when they are all done that would be great.