Install

What is the size of the two -AN fittings on the oil cooler?

Has anyone noticed that part # 00-007-00318, the left right gearbox lever component, has the pin that holds the bushing that connects to the front-back gearbox lever manufactured backwards in the kit from SPF (ie, the pin points out where it should point in toward the RBT/ZF)?

Thanx
Mark
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Mark, do you have a MK1 or MK2? Got a picture of what your talking about on the cable shift set up? Do you want a picture of mine?
 
Attached is mine. I annotated where it appears to be wrong.
 

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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Mark, all the stuff you get from SPF needs a little tweaking to work, here is a picture of my set up for reference.
 

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Jack

From you pics, it does not look like you have the left-right, front back SPF gear linkage components interfaced with each other thru the pin-bushing on the left right lever. In fact, looks like you have the pin-bushing cut off the left right lever. Is that right? If so, how does it work? Shifting sloppy at all?

If that's the case and works fine, I can fix mine in about 30 secs.

Mike, thanx for the oil cooler size, didn't have a -12 around to check it with. by the way, which port is the in port and which is the exit port (or does it mattter?

Thanx
Mark
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
I almost have 8k miles on it all put on by me, no problems yet other than at first I could only get Reverse 1st-4th, 5th was a no go, and when you adjusted it so that 5th would engage you lost Reverse. So I started lowering the pivot point on the control arm so that same amount of travel of the cables would give you more throw and got it dialed in. You have to bend and drill these levers or you will not get it to work properly, I have seen on a couple other SPF cars had to do the same thing.

The pin your referring to does interlock the two levers, its there.
 

Mike Trusty

GT40s Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
It doesn't matter which port you use. It is a side-by-side two pass arrangement so it doesn't matter. If it were arranged where both passes are subjected to the full face of air flow, i.e. front/back, then it is VERY important which is the "in" or "out". In that arrangment you always want the hottest fluid seeing the hottest air. In other words the port serving the back side of the cooler would be the "in" and the front port would be the "out".

A lot said about something that doesn't apply to you but I'm in a sharing mood and it distracts me from doing what I'm supposed to be doing. :)

Since I'm rambling here is some more worthless information.

I converted mine to a singel pass like the original cars to reduce pressure drop. This can be accomplished by welding a #12 male bung on the top plenum of hte cooler. You will need to machine the base plenum to remove the divider if you choose to go with a single pass. The prefered "in" port on a single pass cooler would be one of the bottom ports. If you are using a wet sump motor the extra fitting on the base of the cooler would make a great connection point for an "accusump".

Attached is a picture of what I ended up with.

Cooling on a single pass arrangement is basically the same but much less pressure drop as compared to a two pass. Oviously the two pass works.

Now that I'm on a roll here is some more information. Unless you properly position the cooling relative to the inlet duct and provide a fairly positive seal between the duct and the cooler then the cooler really doesn't do that good of a job. This is easy to se by simply reaching through the cooling duct and feeling the relationship between the duct and the cooler. These coolers are actually the same coolers used on large displacement piston aircraft motors and have a sizeable pressure drop on the air side.

If you decide to do it right and provide a positive seal for the air then you will likely experience a "danged if I do and danged if I don't" situation. You will likely have too much cooling of the oil except under extreme driving condtions which means you would need to consider using an oil temperature thermostat to maintain proper oil temperatures.

All that said, if you are driving the car on the street just hook up the cooler in the two pass arrangement and let the air bypass it and all will likely be good.
 

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Install - oil and coolant sensor fittings

What are the size of these two sensors? They fit a 3/8" NPT fiitting but appear a little loose.
 

Trond

Lifetime Supporter
Hi

My oil cooler arrangement on my SPF MKII, as it is "standard" from the installer, delivered as said earlier too much cooling for road use. In the additional cold air in Norway at spring/fall i was not able to get oil temperatures of more then 50-60 degrees celcius and not more then 60-70 degrees celcius in the hottest summer days. On the track during summer time i was able to reach "normal" temperatures. I had to install a thermostat that bypasses the cooler until it reaches about 115 degrees celcius.

regards
Trond
 
You may be right about the arm for your shifter. The one I have (and didn't use) is the opposite of yours (see picture). I'm not sure but I think my water temp sensor came with the correct fitting. On the oil temp (see picture), most of the early car came with one installed in the remote oil filter adapter that came with the car but I ended up buying one from Superformance in Irvine.

The AN fittings for the MK1 oil cooler are AN10. I moved my oil cooler to the left side of the car to simplify the plumbing. Lynn Miner was nice enough to make a mirror image air box for me. Good luck and enjoy the build.
 

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