Cleaning Headlights

[Chet Schwer]

While i have the front wheels removed, I removed the wheel well cover behind the headlights hoping for an easy way to clean behind the Lexan covers on the headlights but that looks just as difficult as removing the Lexan covers and replacing the double sided glazing tape holding the "Lens" on. What is the best way?
Chet

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I would recommend removing the clear cover, cleaning the lights and polishing the inside of the cover with plastic polish. The polish will help prevent static and stuff sticking to the inside. I would then replace the sealing tape with stuff that is only adhesive on one side to allow easy removal of the lens. You might want to attach the tape to the front clip rather than the lens to prevent the adheasive from discoloring and showing through the lens.

 

[Chet Schwer]

Rick, That sounds good to me since it looks like a continuing job since they are not sealed around the lights in the rear. Thanks!

 

[Ian Anderson]

On my light covers I used 12.5mm wide 2mm expanded rubber (PE) self adhesive strips on the clip.

Keeps most of the dust and dirt out as the "sponge" allows the perspex to seal well

I got mine from
Baines Rubber Extrusions and Mouldings
See page 93 in their catalogue

Takes a bit to line up the screw holes but I found a belt hole punch did very well (before the backing tape is removed) Also leaves a nice black edge around edge of perspes lens


Ian

 

[Rich E.]

Glad this came up. What's the best way to pry the lense off without damaging the fiberglass, paint, or lens?

Rich.

 

[DaveM]

Maybe my SPF is different, but my sealing tape was one sided only, so not difficult to remove the acrylic covers. I did replace the tape with slightly thicker closed cell tape as water would always get inside when washing.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

The factory tape IS one sided adhesive, but if exposed to high temps/sunlight can stick. The closed-cell foam is a good option.

I have looked at moulded silicone seals for the headlamps and for the door toll windows but the tool cost is high to produce a proper quality piece. If I can find a cost effective way to mould them, I will add them to my growing list of GT40 seal kits and upgrade parts.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Rick,
Why not make your own widows/openings etc.. If you go to this site, TAP Plastics you will find all about plastics, molding, cutting, shaping, bending etc. I am working with Lexan making an air cleaner/filter housing for my TWM Fuel Injection. The bending takes a little practice to get it down. You just have to have patience. The same goes for the molding. They have glues and sealants there as well, and a wealth of information about plastics and fiberglass working. It might give you some suggestions on how to obtain what you need.

Bill

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Bill,

I have worked with Plexi/Lexan and am currently moulding ABS for drains parts. What I want to do is mould a silicone seal with adhesive on one side that we can use to get better weathersealing in the side windows and toll vents as well as for the headlamp covers. The issue is to do a proper job requires some good aluminum tooling which is cheap for material but the machine time/operation is not. I have VERY limited machining skills so I can't do it myself. And experience has proven to me that the market for these types of parts is pretty small so the amortization is tough.

I may try some epoxy tooling for this when I get some extra time.....

 

[Rich E.]

Hope this isn't a threadjack but does anyone have a good idea to lift my headlight covers off. The foam seems to have stuck itself to the back of the covers.:furious:

 

[Chet Schwer]

I got one off with a wooden tongue depressor that i ground an edge on but the second one will require me to apply some heat first.