Very Sticky Brake Pedal

Lynn Miner · 16th July 2012, 04:52 PM

Hey guys, it's been a while. P2133 has developed a sticky brake pedal problem. The pedal doesn't return when pressed and I have to hook the side of my shoe to pull it back. I also notice that when I push the brake pedal, the clutch pedal moves with it slightly making me think the shaft is binding. Anyone out there seen this and has dealt with it?

Chet Schwer · 16th July 2012, 07:09 PM

My car developed the same problem last year. I thought i screwed something up while adjusting the brake balance bar. If i did not pull the brake back with my toe, the front brakes would lock up. When I unhooked the pedals I found that the pedals were binding on the shaft. It is just about impossible to unbolt and rotate the pedal box enough to pull the shaft in the car. I was trying to lubricate the shaft with WD40 and silicone and not making any progress. Just when I was ready to unhook everything from the pedal box to allow me to rotate it in the car, the pedals broke free and started working fine. I quess this is one of the hazards of having the pivot shaft on the floor to collect water and dirt rather than above the pedals. If the pedals start binding again, I will pull the shaft and polish the shaft for a better fit in the bushings.

Jack Houpe · 16th July 2012, 07:33 PM

If you remove the pedal assembly can you drill tap and put in a grease zert? 2110 2133, I'm 2164 so I may have another year.

Steve C · 16th July 2012, 08:16 PM

Hi Lynn,

Hope all is well, been awhile since heard from you.

I had same issue with P2125.

As Chet advised I have used WD40 and silicone spray and all is well but, just in case I added a "pull back spring".

Olthoff says it is a common occurance due to dirt ect so a periodic WD40 spray and some silicone should be done but, if mine binds again I will remove and polish the shaft and install a zerc fitting as per Jack's suggestion.

Steve P2125

Chet Schwer · 17th July 2012, 01:44 PM

If I ever need to pull mine apart, I believe I would just drill holes that oil/silicone could be dropped in on the shaft.

Mike · 17th July 2012, 03:10 PM

I pulled the clutch pedal on mine last night and found it to be pretty dry inside the plastic sleeve. I like your idea Jack but wonder of the sleeve would rotate and cut off the zerk access making it hard to get grease inside on the shaft? I think I will use a dry graphite mix so as to not attract gunk.

Jack Houpe · 17th July 2012, 03:48 PM

Good question Michael, I guess someone will have to take it apart to find out. I have a cnc machine that has a rubber tipped grease gun that you just push into a hole and get ready for a mess but it works.

Ron R. · 28th July 2012, 09:58 PM

I too have just had to address the binding shaft issue.

The only thing I have to add to the conversation is that I found that one of the roll pins had either sheared off, or had not been driven deep enough to actually prevent the threaded rod end from rotating. Just another failure mode to consider if you brakes seem to be hanging up.

Ps. Getting that pedal assembly out was way more difficult than putting in the engine. I still haven't psyched myself up for putting it back in.

Mike · 28th July 2012, 10:05 PM

Did you remove the AC evaporator and access panel up top? What made mine difficult at first was that the clutch pedal when disengaged, was pressing on the cross brace on the floor. Once I corrected that, the pedal assembly went in and out pretty easy. No big deal. You lost me on the roll pins? Mine has a floating shaft with c-clips on each end to retain. Are you talking the pedal shaft?

Ron R. · 29th July 2012, 12:09 AM

I did go in from above.

My brakes were not releasing correctly, and I thought it was the front master cylinder sticking. Once I got the entire pedal cluster out, I found that it was the balance bar mechanism that was binding. On inspection, it turned out that one of the pins that keeps the threaded ball retained in one of the two rod ends wasn't functioning. Because the ball was free to turn on the shaft, there was too much play in the mechanism, allowing the system to bind, preventing the brakes from releasing completely.

For me, the difficulty in removing the pedal cluster had mostly to do with unscrewing the hydraulic lines from the master cylinders. Well, that and getting things sufficiently out if the way to actually reach them. It would have helped if I were a contortionist midget with girl hands.

Ron R. · 31st July 2012, 11:53 AM

Quick up-date, both roll pins were sheared. Drilling them out was easy, very soft material...looked like brass.

Discovered another issue, which ultimately probably caused the symptoms that I was experiencing...one of the two bushings(?...the ones with the two pins that retain the rod-ends from the master cylinders) was binding on the brake pedal. The pins are welded on, and the welder got really good penetration...and left a couple of big weld globs on the inner surface. These were digging into the pedal, instead of freely rotating. A few minuties with a grinder, and I have the smoothest functioning set of pedals in existance.

Anyway, just something to think of if your pedals aren't functioning smoothly.

Mike · 31st July 2012, 12:10 PM

Thanks Ron, I will take a look at mine.