how to jack car,

Brian Stewart
Supporter
Have you got the quick lift jack points (parrot beaks) fitted. I've seen a floor jack with a cross member that fits into the parrot beaks that looks very effective.
 
Sean, a floor jack works fine on the rear square tubing. Has to be low though. At the front I welded up a long horizontal rod with gussets that fits a small floor jack. That will then lift into the 2 quickjack points at the front of the car.
 

Brian Stewart
Supporter
Here are a couple of examples Sean.
 

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Dave Hood

Lifetime Supporter
Sean:

Here is a photo of the rear of my car, showing the placement of the wood block and jack stands.

Dave
 

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FYI the vintage jacking tool with small metal wheels at the end of a 7 foot fulcrum works well with SPF cars and will not damage car. I've used one often, however it requires more room to lift the car. It does separate for storage.
I also have one dedicated floor jack with a custom lift bar that can be used on both quick jack point locations and doesn't take up much room. I know you cannot lift all makes and most are not equipped with the quick lift points to further discourage attempts. If fact look at other makes to find a TOW ring fitted. Most don't have a functional ring. Olthoff sells the original lifting rig.
 
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I found one someone made that I used as a Pattern. Squared 2" tubing with a solid rod welded to each end. I removed the jacks lifting pad and welded the threaded rod that holds the lifting plate to the jack.
 

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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I don't know about all the GT40 replicas out there, but I'll tell you that most of the Cobra replicas I've worked on would be lifted by their Quick-Jack bumper exactly once and body damage would be immediate...
 
I found one someone made that I used as a Pattern. Squared 2" tubing with a solid rod welded to each end. I removed the jacks lifting pad and welded the threaded rod that holds the lifting plate to the jack.


Where can i get one of these?
 
Sorry to say, but you'll have to make one. Don't forget the gussets to reinforce the rod. Use 2" thick wall tubing and a solid rod. Your rear points are the closest points to fit the square tube between, but the front need to have rods long enough to span the distance between the lift jack points. I'll check the measurements on mine if you need.
 
I made these lift bars as my student project in the welding class I took. They sit on the jack pad. The rear bar had to be notched for clearance at the ZF. Way over designed but hey, it was for welding practice. (Sorry about the lousy phone picture.)
 

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I made these lift bars as my student project in the welding class I took. They sit on the jack pad. The rear bar had to be notched for clearance at the ZF. Way over designed but hey, it was for welding practice. (Sorry about the lousy phone picture.)


Great project.

Care to make another set?

What brand and caacity of jack are you using?
 

Dwight

RCR GT 40 Gulf Livery 347 Eight Stack injection
last Friday I was at the Mid Ohio Vintage Races and saw Dennis Olthoff's SPF GT 40 jacked up in the front.
Heavy gauge channel iron
Dwight


 
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I was lucky when I first started my build an old friend Lynn Miner (long time SPF GT-40 and Cobra owner) gave me a tool not seen much anymore, a bumper jack. Storage is an issue but it goes a lot higher then most floor jacks. Mine is hydraulic but many are air powered which would be even better. If I had had a welder at the time the great tools that people have made would have be my first choice.

This is just one of many possible options. I know it does look a bit strange but I've never had a problem lifting the car this way. You would think the end of the quick jack would just fold over or break off but it hasn't. Maybe because of the rubber but like I said it works. Not sure if I've ever lifted the rear this way but the pad width is adjustable so I think it would also work.

I think now that a have a welder I may remove the part that raises the rubber pads and extend the arms so I could reach the chassis instead of just the quick jacks without having to remove the nose or raise the car a little first.

Now that I have a lift can someone share what they use as lift points on their SPF GT-40? Pictures please.

As anything I do on the 40 seems to take forever I currently have the car on jack stands thus keeping the lift available for more important tasks. When I first started my build I covered a couple of 2x6's with carpet and they have worked very well to keep the car in the air and not damage the bottom.

I seem to have the ability to do lots of damage to the bottom all on my own thank you very much. Some of you may remember seeing pictures of deer hair and other body parts along the bottom, not my finest hour.
 

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