Maintenance

While I've got car pulled apart to fix grounding issues and broken throttle cable, figured I'd try to fix all the current needs. Couple of quick questions I couldn't seem to find in other threads or manuals:

- up front, which cap is for brake fluid res and which cap is for clutch fluid res

- the rear half shaft boots are shot ... after getting bolts out, removal of shaft from ZF is no problem, however, removal from wheel assembly is not happening ... seems to me I remember Dennis O saying to take a wooden block and then smack it real hard with sledge hammer to break the outside half shaft loose ... any other ideas

- which boots do folks use to replace rear half shaft boots? seems to me larger boots are required (at least for my setup) due to the angle of the half shaft to the ZF

Thanx much
Mark
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
Dennis sells a tool for pressing out the halfshafts. I didn't have any luck pounding on mine with a hammer and I didn't want to beat on very hard anyway. Tool works like a charm to press out and pull back in.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
While I've got car pulled apart to fix grounding issues and broken throttle cable, figured I'd try to fix all the current needs. Couple of quick questions I couldn't seem to find in other threads or manuals:

- up front, which cap is for brake fluid res and which cap is for clutch fluid res

- the rear half shaft boots are shot ... after getting bolts out, removal of shaft from ZF is no problem, however, removal from wheel assembly is not happening ... seems to me I remember Dennis O saying to take a wooden block and then smack it real hard with sledge hammer to break the outside half shaft loose ... any other ideas

- which boots do folks use to replace rear half shaft boots? seems to me larger boots are required (at least for my setup) due to the angle of the half shaft to the ZF

Thanx much
Mark

Looking at car from front right cap is clutch, the left is brake.
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
I have not had my half shafts off yet so I ask in curiosity, why can't the outer CV remain in tact, and from the inboard side of the shaft, the outer boot be slipped on first then the inner boot?
 
Can't speak for others, but I gave 'taking off the inside of the half shaft' a shot. It was fairly painful, and I was never able to get the tightening strap against the ZF seated correctly nor as tight as I would like to have had it. NOTE: all of this pain could easily been attributed to my mechanical capabilities!
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
I have not had to replace boots but the believe the only way to service and tighten rear wheel bearings is with halfshafts removed. It's not that hard of a job if you have the tool or have one of the cars that did not have such tight fitting splines. I service my wheel bearings every winter. Other than being messy its not bad.
 
I service mine once a year also and it's not a tough job, just takes a little time, maybe 3-4 hours. I like to re-grease the bearings and check the seals just because. I have 2307, which must not be pressed in hubs. While the car is on the ground, I break the 36 mm bolt/nut loose inside the hub, then jack the car up. This must be done if you are going to pull the hubs. I have found it easier to remove the half shafts with the rear cover removed. The six allen screws on the inner and outer CV are a different thread, at least on mine they are, so keep them separate. With the half shafts on a work bench, it is fairly easy to take apart and re-grease. If you have to replace a boot, the inner bearing carrier of the CV can be tight on the shaft and will need to be pressed off once the "c" clip is re-moved.
With the half-shaft removed, now you can check the wheel bearing play and adjust if needed. I have found that if I am at this point, I normally unscrew the hub and pull the bearings and re-grease, again, not a difficult job. If I am only checking/adjusting bearing play, I leave the 36 mm bolt/nut in place but you still have to remove the half-shaft or at least the outer CV to get to the hub. Also, don't let your CV move too much or you will risk a ball bearing falling out. Just my 2 cents! :thumbsup:
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Are these not "supposedly" recreations of the originals

If so why CV joints should have Rotoflex couplings

Ian
 
I don't think all the replicas using Corvette and similar wheel bearing assy's are having anywhere near the issues some of the SPF cars seem to be having. Guess that's the price some seem prepared to pay for ?% originality.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Are these not "supposedly" recreations of the originals

If so why CV joints should have Rotoflex couplings

Ian

Only early cars had Rotoflex, later units had U joints. MK IIs did not have Rotoflex couplings for example.

And there are numerous concessions to modern technology and comfort such as the A/C system om SPF.
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Only early cars had Rotoflex, later units had U joints. MK IIs did not have Rotoflex couplings for example.

And there are numerous concessions to modern technology and comfort such as the A/C system om SPF.

And Mark Two did not run ZF or small block, or Quad Webbers, or fuel injection etc
Or have the wheel on the left (wrong side):stunned:

All good looking cars but not original standard without a lot of parts put in the bin and replaced with period parts

Ian
 
And Mark Two did not run ZF or small block, or Quad Webbers, or fuel injection etc
Or have the wheel on the left (wrong side):stunned:

All good looking cars but not original standard without a lot of parts put in the bin and replaced with period parts

Ian

SPF may not be fully original, but by far the most original of any GT40 replica with production figures more than 5 cars/year. Anyone else have the combination of full steel monocoque with original uprights and suspension? Only Gelscoe or a couple other very low production replicas.
MkII's did come with CV joints at least on the gearbox end.
I don't see much original on the vast majority of GT40 replicas outside of SPF.
 
Can't track down zf 5DS-25/2 bottom drain plug torque value. Checked web and ZF manual -- no luck. Anyone know this #?
 
Re: Maintenance - STUMPED

Started this thread with 427 FE sideoiler no start
- all grounds to bare metal - starter, block and battery directly to chassis
- checked resistance on all spark and coil wires - ok
- ensured weber fuel flow at 2.5
- new starter
- new coil
- new rotor
- new distributor cap
- removed MSD 6201 from system and rewired so MSD 8595 ready to run would provide spark

Still, motor cranks but won't start...

Any ideas??
 
I suppose you've carefully checked the right firing order for your particular engine... Sounds basic, but sometimes... :drunk: (don't ask how I know !);) and checked few times that new wiring on the distributor...

Others usual and basic checkings you surely already done : Do you have sparks at the plugs, when removed and hand-grounded on the block ? does the exhaust smell fuel ?
 
Last edited:
You know, I didn't check to see if the distributor shaft turned when I cranked the motor when I had the cap off. And, with all the cranking, I haven't seen the oil pressure move.

Maybe the gear at the bottom of the distributor sheared/broke/became loose and has given me no spark and no oil pressure. Will pull distributor and take a look.
 
Back
Top