SPF Drivetrain Install

For those owners that have done or plan to do your own drivetrain installation, is there any existing documentation regarding checklists, procedures, additional parts needed, etc.? Is there any kind of game plan?

I have the rolling chassis, Roush 427SR, and Quaife transaxle. I'm building a short list of prep work, but would like to learn from others' experience and reduce the amount of rework involved.

It's been suggested that I call installers like Olthoff and ask questions. Admittedly, I feel a little uncomfortable asking people that make their money installing this stuff how to do their job. :uneasy:

What are your thoughts? Thanks.

Tim
 
I've found there are jobs (task) I can do, although it may take me 4 times as long to complete, and other jobs that I let the experts do. It depends on your level of competence and tools. Jobs like getting the rear wheel bearing adjusted, I take to Dennis who has the tools that you'll need. Many on the site have the experience to attempt the more difficult task. When I get another car (like now w/ERA) I'll send it down to Olthoff just to have someone who sees many of these to 'look it over'. Safety first. Its like buying a helmet, how much do you feel your head is worth?
Basically your getting a great car to start with, but there are some areas you need to get right. I've seen cars that had hand tight nuts where they should have been torqued. The good thing is there aren't many 'Bubbas' building these cars. When you see their work, you say "What the ?" were they thinking.
My advise when you get your car finished, take it to a shop that finishes these cars and have them look it over. It is a confidence builder at the least and well worth it.
Sorry to ramble, but I have a strong aircraft maintenance background, where people have yet to create any new ways of killing themselves.
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
I've been putting a new engine in mine along with several other items I'm addressing for a year now. Dennis would have done it in a week.
 
It appears to me that your install should be relatively straight forward. However, these cars are not that easy to do on your own especially the first time out. These cars are not perfect when they come from the factory and you have to check everything. My build was quite unique and I had it done by HRE Motorcars in Freeport, New York and it needed to be completely redone due to poor workmanship and I have just finished it now after 14 months. Building something like this is a lot more complicated than assembling a Cobra. I can make that comment as I have one of each. My car needed a lot of custom fabrication and I needed someone that could design, fabricate, and weld at their shop. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way.

Olthoff is an exceptional resource as they build a lot of GT40s and have developed many parts through trial and error for these cars. During my build, the guys at Olthoff were very helpful and were happy to take the time to share their knowledge. They work on these cars every day and see all the mickey mouse installations that others do and quite often have to make them right. I did buy some small parts from them during the build but the information they shared far outweighed the purchases.
 
HRE are well versed in the GT 40. Bill Andrews has put together or completed many GT40's and Cobras including my former CAV 082. A very nice man too.
 
Tim,

Really, its not difficult. I'm not aware of any online resources (aside from what was mentioned in the other thread), but would be glad to help you out. PM me if you'd like.

The basics:

1. You want to have your clutch and TO mechanism worked out. I went hydraulic. The disc I used I was able to order through Summit after getting a PN. I think it was from a BMW M1.

2. You want to order the correct oil pan/sump. Aviad or Armondo's. I'm sure I can find the PN if you need it. If I recall, you want the one from the Cobra coupe (not the GT40 version unless you're using an original style small diameter clutch/bell housing).

3. Make sure your serpentine belt system will fit...remember the ac. I don't know specifically about the SR setup, maybe it's plug and play in the GT.

4. I think the engine mounts are actually chevy style. I bought mine from a gentleman in SoCal who was doing installs for Hillbank. I suspect there are lots of sources.

5. Of course you'll need fasteners. I used Grade 8. And, if the manufacturer wouldn't put it's name on it, I didn't use it.

6. I put the engine in first, then attached the tranny. It just seemed easier. You'll have to tilt the motor forward, and slide it under the rear bulkhead a bit. Make sure that however you're holding the engine up, you'll have room to slide it forward. I had to take my carbs off and use a lifting plate bolted to the intake.

7. The headers were fun. None of mine were numbered when I received them. I just played with them in my front room until I figured out where they went. Then figured out the order they had to be put on in. I've probably got it written down somewhere, but I'm sure someone around here knows it by heart.

8. The wiring is not difficult. Just look at the owner's manual. Mine was complicated because one of the Maxifuses was bad from the start. I can only assume that my experience was unique.

9. Oh, yes, the hoses. Lube them up good with dish soap. I think I attached mine to the center tunnel first, slid the motor in, and then attached them to the motor. Some cursing was involved. There's not a lot of room to work here. For some reason, I had extra hoses. No, I don't think I forgot anything.

10. The throttle cable attachment will depend on your system. Just make sure that there are no kinks.

11. I'm not sure what most people are doing about the speedo...GPS nowadays? I used the cable with a gear reduction unit...the company that made the reduction unit is out of business, I believe.

12. Finally, the shift linkage. Buy one from Olthoff.

I have a binder at home with most of my info...I'm at work and going by memory. What I told you above is probably all wrong. :)
 
Last edited:

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
The basic install is not complex or hard. It is the "little things", the brackets, the hose routing, etc. that make a proper, quality install.

My car had been done by a shop that I assume had never seen a GT40 previously. They had no fuel filter on the system, a crappie clamp-on battery cable end and used cheap engine mounts that allowed the motor to rock excessively. It is the details that make the difference.

They also did not do any real chassis finishing (see the thread on sealing) and used a lot of crimp on wire ends with out soldering or shrink insulation which I consider a quickie way of doing electrical work.

I have a customer who did his own MK I install in about 30 days and it is one of the best and cleanest installs short of an Olthoff job. You can do it, you just need all the parts and time to do it right.
 

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Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Tim,

Really, its not difficult. I'm not aware of any online resources (aside from what was mentioned in the other thread), but would be glad to help you out. PM me if you'd like.

The basics:

1. You want to have your clutch and TO mechanism worked out. I went hydraulic. The disc I used I was able to order through Summit after getting a PN. I think it was from a BMW M1.

2. You want to order the correct oil pan/sump. Aviad or Armondo's. I'm sure I can find the PN if you need it. If I recall, you want the one from the Cobra coupe (not the GT40 version unless you're using an original style small diameter clutch/bell housing).

3. Make sure your serpentine belt system will fit...remember the ac. I don't know specifically about the SR setup, maybe it's plug and play in the GT.

4. I think the engine mounts are actually chevy style. I bought mine from a gentleman in SoCal who was doing installs for Hillbank. I suspect there are lots of sources.

5. Of course you'll need fasteners. I used Grade 8. And, if the manufacturer wouldn't put it's name on it, I didn't use it.

6. I put the engine in first, then attached the tranny. It just seemed easier. You'll have to tilt the motor forward, and slide it under the rear bulkhead a bit. Make sure that however you're holding the engine up, you'll have room to slide it forward. I had to take my carbs off and use a lifting plate bolted to the intake.

7. The headers were fun. None of mine were numbered when I received them. I just played with them in my front room until I figured out where they went. Then figured out the order they had to be put on in. I've probably got it written down somewhere, but I'm sure someone around here knows it by heart.

8. The wiring is not difficult. Just look at the owner's manual. Mine was complicated because one of the Maxifuses was bad from the start. I can only assume that my experience was unique.

9. Oh, yes, the hoses. Lube them up good with dish soap. I think I attached mine to the center tunnel first, slid the motor in, and then attached them to the motor. Some cursing was involved. There's not a lot of room to work here. For some reason, I had extra hoses. No, I don't think I forgot anything.

10. The throttle cable attachment will depend on your system. Just make sure that there are no kinks.

11. I'm not sure what most people are doing about the speedo...GPS nowadays? I used the cable with a gear reduction unit...the company that made the reduction unit is out of business, I believe.

12. Finally, the shift linkage. Buy one from Olthoff.

I have a binder at home with most of my info...I'm at work and going by memory. What I told you above is probably all wrong. :)

Pretty much the way. You can put the engine/transaxle in as one if you pull the upper cross brace off the rear collar. Also an alternative pulley/bracket system is from Design Enterprizes and uses a serpentine belt on a billet aluminum bracket that attaches only to the block allowing you to remove a head without disturbing the front dress of the engine. We sell the system and it works great.

The engine mounts can be standard Ford Windsor for a 70 Mustang or you can go poly. The mounts Ron is talking about use a Chevy big block urethane insulator that adapts to the block and chassis with custom brackets.

And yes, the Olthoff shift system is an improvement. My car would not go into first easily unless downshifting. And reverse was a "joy" As simple as the Olthoff stuff is, it solved the issue and now it's like butter!

And order one of Blas' wire diagrams before you hook up any power. You will be happy you did.
 
Rick s right, I used poly mounts for the engine. Perhaps more solid than the typical Ford mounts. Not sure why they were suggested, but that's why I went with them.
 
Oh, I should mention, bleeding the cooling system can be tricky because of the way the engine tilts. I guess there are air-pockets that can be difficult to eliminate. I picked up a vacuum bleeder that was fantastic. Well worth the price if you already have a compressor.

Additionally, how you wire the ignition will be up to you. I used an MSD Digital 6, mounted behind the passenger seat. Obviously, you don't have to do that. Don't forget to ground the motor to the chassis. If you use an electric fuel pump, there is wiring for two pumps already there. If not, you can certainly use a block-mounted mechanical pump. And, as Rick said, don't forget to use a good fuel filter with adequate flow.

There are lots of ways to plumb the oil system....from doing nothing (probably just fine for 90% of the cars) to a dry sump with remote coolers and filters. All of that depends on how you plan to use the car. I have a BIG motor, and occasionally drive hard. I've been absolutely fine without even using the supplied auxiliary cooler.

If you have the car apart, now would be a good time to use one of Rick's sealing kits. You'd be amazed at how much warm air blows in all the little gaps in the chassis. Speaking of chassis warmth, you might consider insulating the rear bulkhead. I didn't, many do. I also didn't plumb the heater. I've never missed it, and don't have to worry about leaks or any extra heat traveling through the tunnel. But, I live in California, and it rarely gets below 30 deg F here. Even then, it doesn't get cold in the car.

There are a few non-engine related things to consider...mirrors is one of them. Possibly replacing and relocating the master cylinder reservoirs is another that comes to mind. You'll also have to decide if you want to put in a kill switch or plumb a fire system (easier now than later).

But have fun, and don't stress out about it. Its pretty hard to screw up. Once the motor is actually sitting in the chassis (an easy job), the rest is exciting because the light at the end of the tunnel starts glowing brightly.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Oh, I should mention, bleeding the cooling system can be tricky because of the way the engine tilts. I guess there are air-pockets that can be difficult to eliminate. I picked up a vacuum bleeder that was fantastic. Well worth the price if you already have a compressor.

Additionally, how you wire the ignition will be up to you. I used an MSD Digital 6, mounted behind the passenger seat. Obviously, you don't have to do that. Don't forget to ground the motor to the chassis. If you use an electric fuel pump, there is wiring for two pumps already there. If not, you can certainly use a block-mounted mechanical pump. And, as Rick said, don't forget to use a good fuel filter with adequate flow.

There are lots of ways to plumb the oil system....from doing nothing (probably just fine for 90% of the cars) to a dry sump with remote coolers and filters. All of that depends on how you plan to use the car. I have a BIG motor, and occasionally drive hard. I've been absolutely fine without even using the supplied auxiliary cooler.

If you have the car apart, now would be a good time to use one of Rick's sealing kits. You'd be amazed at how much warm air blows in all the little gaps in the chassis. Speaking of chassis warmth, you might consider insulating the rear bulkhead. I didn't, many do. I also didn't plumb the heater. I've never missed it, and don't have to worry about leaks or any extra heat traveling through the tunnel. But, I live in California, and it rarely gets below 30 deg F here. Even then, it doesn't get cold in the car.

There are a few non-engine related things to consider...mirrors is one of them. Possibly replacing and relocating the master cylinder reservoirs is another that comes to mind. You'll also have to decide if you want to put in a kill switch or plumb a fire system (easier now than later).

But have fun, and don't stress out about it. Its pretty hard to screw up. Once the motor is actually sitting in the chassis (an easy job), the rest is exciting because the light at the end of the tunnel starts glowing brightly.

True Ron but like all projects, the last ten percent is 90 percent of the work! Once the engine is in, it LOOKS like a car but the devil is in the details! Why do you think so many kit cars are advertised as "90 percent completed"? because the last ten percent is the hard part!
 
Maybe optional in Texas, but some of us applied rustproofing inside as many of the chassis 'boxes' as possible. The chassis is made from a zinc coated steel, but rusts easily at welded junctions. Drilled 1/2" holes for rustproofing and sealed with plastic plugs. Eastwood has all these supplies.
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
Lastly, do not install A/C or cup holders! I attended Goodwood recently and had the opportunity to look over in detail all ~30 or so GT40s. Not surprisingly, none of them had A/C or cup holders. When I inquired as to why I was nearly escorted from the paddock in an unceremonious fashion.

If those conveniences and comforts are something strongly desired, might I suggest a brand new Corvette or possibly a new Mercedes S class. I would go so far as to say that if you have A/C and cup holders on your GT40, you should be given a choice of removing them immediately or handing over the keys to me so that I can return your GT40 to an un-neutered original state. I might give it back if you are able to prove to me that you have completed man-card university and learned to conduct yourself as a privileged GT40 owner.

The end
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Hell Mike, I have Air Conditioned Cup Holders to keep the BIG GULP cold! And of course a necker's knob on the steering wheel to keep one hand free for the hot babe in the passenger seat.

Now installing the curb feelers was a hard job on the SPF, but the antenna for the coon tail was easy, I just had to drill a hole in the rear deck behind the back glass. Killed two birds as now I have a source for the radio and amp system signal.
 
True Ron but like all projects, the last ten percent is 90 percent of the work! Once the engine is in, it LOOKS like a car but the devil is in the details! Why do you think so many kit cars are advertised as "90 percent completed"? because the last ten percent is the hard part!


Well, in my defense, I did say that putting the engine in the chassis is the EASY part.

And don't listen to Mike, install the AC. Mike's not tough, he just lives at altitude.
 
Thank you all for this input. You are saying many of the same things my friend and crewmember and I have said as we prep for the project.

I'll address Ron's 12 points specifically:
1. I have the bell/clutch/pressure plate/throwout from Olthoff.

2. The 427SR from Roush has the correct pan. Roush actually has a crate engine configuration specific for the SPF GT40, complete with the oil pan and accessory/belt setup.

3. See #2.

4. I'll probably follow Mark's advice on the Poly mounts for a Windsor.

5. "Of course you'll need fasteners. I used Grade 8. And, if the manufacturer wouldn't put it's name on it, I didn't use it." Yes! And I just received a rivet nut tool from Amazon!

6. "I put the engine in first, then attached the tranny. It just seemed easier. You'll have to tilt the motor forward, and slide it under the rear bulkhead a bit. Make sure that however you're holding the engine up, you'll have room to slide it forward. I had to take my carbs off and use a lifting plate bolted to the intake." Thanks - I'll probably do them separate. Will picking the engine up by the outer holes on the cylinder heads work, or is that a no-go because of the bulkhead?

7. "The headers were fun. None of mine were numbered when I received them." The bundle I received with the chassis are all numbered. Except for a minor clearance issue with the #1 header tube and rear of valve cover (It'll need to be dinged a little), I think I'm set there. I know the install order - 2&3, 6&7, 4&8, 1&5 (IIRC).

8. I'm pretty comfortable with the wiring, once I understand what everything is. Mark's suggestion on the wiring diagram is a good one. I also have the somewhat dated owner's manual in electronic form. Amen on solder and good connectors - I never want to redo any of that. I also plan to use an MSD box and locate it in the battery box with the battery, as I've seen someone else do here on the forum.

9. Which hoses? My chassis has hoses already pulled through for A/C and heater. Are there more?

10. "The throttle cable attachment will depend on your system. Just make sure that there are no kinks." Great tip.

11. I'll have to evaluate the speedo along the way. Good tip, though.

12. "Finally, the shift linkage. Buy one from Olthoff." Done. I bought it with the other parts from Olthoff.

Thanks to all of you, again. I love this forum.
 
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