Steering Rack Not Centered at Installation

[Tim Terry]

During our initial wrench-turning on P/2334, we noticed a significant amount of toe in. It will be a while before alignment, but we wanted to make some small adjustments to toe, just to make the chassis easier to roll around the shop during drivetrain installation.

As we started to turn the tie rods to adjust toe, we realized we turned the passenger side a bunch and, at the same time, we ran out of turns on the driver's side. We double-checked that the steering wheel was centered. I turned the wheel lock to lock and verified that this rack is only two turns lock to lock. So yes, the steering wheel was centered.

Since we can't get enough adjustment to get the driver's side visually near zero and since we're out of tie rod, I assume the steering rack was not centered before installing the column/steering shaft.

I've notified Edland about this and expect that they'll provide feedback to Hi-Tech for future installs. I'm also waiting for instructions on how to remove the steering shaft and re-center the rack.

Just FYI for those in this phase of assembly. If you have any thoughts about our logic, I'd like them.

Edland has been very responsive to all of my questions during the order and delivery. Travis and Mitch are good guys and I'm sure they will respond quickly and thoroughly.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Note that the factory really only "eyeballs" alignment and a proper, full alignment is needed before any real driving. Because the chassis is a "roller" and ride height is way off they can't do a proper setting and at best they are only set it to roll without excessive pushing efforts required!

Also you may want to cut the tie wraps that hold the rack boots on, slide the outward and see if you have the steering "limiters" on your rack. These are white nylon bushings that restrict the lock to lock total movement. Most cars with proper tires can do without them and will only have minor or no tire to tub interference with them removed. Without them your turning radius is GREATLY reduced. You can of course cut them down and reinstall them if you hit. With 205/70x15 tires of most brands you will not hit or have only minor scrubbing at full lock.

And proper credit to Dennis Olthoff for showing me this.

 

[Tim Terry]

Rick,
I completely understand just "eyeballing" alignment. That isn't the issue. The assembly of the steering rack and steering column/shaft can't be just a guess, can it?. Look at it this way: If the drivetrain was installed and I took it to an alignment shop, alignment would be impossible with this condition on the steering rack.

You are in the sales/installation business and know those who do the same. Do they have an item on their checklist to check the centering of the steering rack? Or am I the rare exception where it's off? I'm just trying to understand.

Thanks.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I can honestly say we don't have that on our checklist and I am not aware of it happening previously although I don't know the history of every car!

Obviously you will need to re-index the steering shaft to the rack input.

 

[Tim Terry]

Thanks, Rick. Good to know it's not a common occurrence.

 

[Randy V]

I would suggest
Spinning the shock-spring collars down/up to lower the chassis to the right ride height and then checking your front-end geometry.
Discount the relative position of the steering wheel for now
Disconnect the tie rods from the steering arms
Center the steering rack by counting the turns from one lock, then turning the column back exactly 1/2 of that.
Lock the column by clamping opposing vice grips or clamps to intersect some part of the chassis (very important)
Now move the wheels to where you are at zero toe or very close.
Adjust tie rods to fit on the steering arms without moving the wheels from their zero position.
Unclamp the steering column and check for movement without any interference.
Center the steering once again and then clock the steering wheel / column to proper orientation.

This is the way that I have done it numerous times on Cobras as well as my GT40 and other cars.

 

[Tim Terry]

Thank you, Randy.

 

[Grady]

Ditto what Randy said..Never take it for granted that the steering and rear end have been set on the initial setup....unless Dennis got hold of it first. My ERA was driven 180 miles without a front/rear end setup and ate the new front Avon tires. The front coils were loose and bottomed out. It is amazing what 3 inches of lift to the front end will do to get it off the road surface. But it straight as an arrow now. Another lesson I learned. CHECK every bolt and nut for torque and proper direction. Add painted slippage marks.

 

[Tim Terry]

Good tips, Grady. Thank you.

 

[Tim Terry]

Randy,
I started to follow your instructions above. Centered the rack between turn locks. Locked steering shaft with pliers. Disconnected tie rod ends and moved wheels near zero toe. Look at the results. The rod ends are very uneven.

Rick,
Is the steering limiter the whitish thing in first pic - boot pulled back? If so, how do you remove it?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Randy,
I started to follow your instructions above. Centered the rack between turn locks. Locked steering shaft with pliers. Disconnected tie rod ends and moved wheels near zero toe. Look at the results. The rod ends are very uneven.

Rick,
Is the steering limiter the whitish thing in first pic - boot pulled back? If so, how do you remove it?

No,

It would be a nylon piece with a band clamp retaining it. That is the end of the rack housing and will not come off with a pair of dykes!

 

[Randy V]

Tim - very interesting...
If the tie-rods are the same length, it suggests that the steering rack itself is not located in the chassis properly. That said - looking at your first picture, it appears that the rack may be mounted in the only position possible.
We ran into similar issues with Factory Five Cobras and Mustang steering racks. The cure was to cut the tie-rod end (the forged steel part) on the side where you run out of threads (your second picture).
Odd that a factory built car like the SPF would have such a problem.
Rick?

 

[Julian]

As a first next step I would suggest you determine a true center for the car and measure to the end of the rack (inner tie rod) from the center to establish whether the rack is indeed mounted centered.

With the car in the air, wheels off and suspension at full droop it is difficult to assess where everything is or supposed to be and whether both sides are equal. A good set of strings and setting up with wheels on and car at normal ride height will highlight differences easier. Assuming the above first step confirms the rack is mounted correctly, then rough setting the suspension geometry should be next. Have you checked ride height, camber and caster settings, as all will impact the position of the outer tie rod?

Julian

 

[Tim Terry]

Julian,
I have NOT checked ride height, camber/caster, etc. Car is up on jacks, full droop - as you suggest. Will finish engine install and let the car down before proceeding.

Thanks all! What a problem solving experience, but rewarding!

 

[DaveM]

Tim I had to cut off some of a tie rod end on one side to get toe OK and wheel centered. Rick's idea of removing the white plastic spacers is well worth the extra travel gained.

 

[Tim Terry]

Dave,
Rick indicated he didn't see the spacers in the first photo. If I can find them, I'll remove them. I have 2 full turns, lock to lock. Is that normal?

 

[DaveM]

Apparently you don't have the spacers. I get 2 full turns as well without them. Maybe SPF started deleting them on later chassis? Do you know anything about that Rick?

 

[Randy V]

Julian,
I have NOT checked ride height, camber/caster, etc. Car is up on jacks, full droop - as you suggest. Will finish engine install and let the car down before proceeding.

Thanks all! What a problem solving experience, but rewarding!

Hmmmm.... Getting the suspension set to ride height is the very first step in the method I outlined above... I use wooden boxes that are made up of 2x12's with 1" of plywood on the top. This way I can crawl under the car as well..
Regardless of that - removing your front clip, then adjusting your coil overs to either bring the lower control arms level to the ground, or the bottom of the chassis to the prescribed ride height should be done before anything else..

 

[Tim Terry]

Thanks much, Randy.