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Old 18th June 2017, 11:13 AM   #41
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Re: p2348

Steve,
I also did the Tilton swap out and just wanted to relay some info as it pertained to me. I pulled the pedal box out and replaced like size for like size, much easier to do on the bench and bleed. The Willwood clutch was a .625" and I replaced with a Tilton .625". I believed the cylinder may be a tad shorter and maybe displaced a little less oil . My shifter became very tough in the fact that the clutch was not disengaging completely. Reverse became impossible after just a short ride and shifting through the gears under hard acceleration was impossible. I changed the Tilton one size up, .7", resulting in a slightly stiffer clutch, but the problem went away. Just me 2 cents. Have fun with the build
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Old 18th June 2017, 12:29 PM   #42
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Re: p2348

Mike,

Good to know! Anyone else have the same issue? I also encountered a problem with the -4AN fittings. I'm using aluminum fittings at the recommendation of Tilton (like metals). The -3AN double male fitting screws in fine. The -4AN double male fitting that goes to the reservoir uses a crush washer. Torque specs are 25ft/lb. I spun off the first fitting at around 17ft/lb.
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Old 19th June 2017, 12:48 AM   #43
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Re: p2348

Quote:
Originally Posted by jammin man View Post
Mike,

Good to know! Anyone else have the same issue? I also encountered a problem with the -4AN fittings. I'm using aluminum fittings at the recommendation of Tilton (like metals). The -3AN double male fitting screws in fine. The -4AN double male fitting that goes to the reservoir uses a crush washer. Torque specs are 25ft/lb. I spun off the first fitting at around 17ft/lb.
25 in/lb would be more appropriate on alloy.
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Old 19th June 2017, 08:02 AM   #44
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Re: p2348

Quote:
Originally Posted by jac mac View Post

25 in/lb would be more appropriate on alloy.
That would be my thought as well... Surprized that it made it to 17 ft lbs actually...
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Old 8th July 2017, 09:08 PM   #45
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Re: p2348

Slowly getting a few odds and ends done while I wait for a part for the front dress kit. Working on the fuel pump and coil install as well as the MSD and battery. My 10yo daughter has been helpful taping out the engine compartment. Powder coated and sanded off the fins and letters on the valve covers. Trying to figure out the best adapter to the coolant hoses. There are 2 sets of hoses that came with the kit (their exactly the same) and they appear to connect to the engine. I have a couple of 90 degree aluminum tubes to connect to the supply and return but maybe a bit too long. Once the serpentine belt is done time for the engine to go in. Still waiting for the transaxle so the engine won't have it's final mount position fore-aft until the transaxle is here.
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Old 8th July 2017, 09:13 PM   #46
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Re: p2348

Here's some pics
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Old 8th July 2017, 09:14 PM   #47
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Re: p2348

more pics
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p2348-img_0576-jpg   p2348-img_0577-jpg   p2348-img_0579-jpg   p2348-img_0580-jpg   p2348-img_0581-jpg  

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Old 8th July 2017, 09:15 PM   #48
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Re: p2348

More pics
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p2348-img_0582-jpg   p2348-img_0583-jpg   p2348-img_0584-jpg   p2348-img_0585-jpg   p2348-img_0586-jpg  

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Old 8th July 2017, 10:27 PM   #49
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Re: p2348

Looking good Steve.... Great that your daughter is helping out!
I hate to tell you this but your fuel pump is the wrong type to be used as a lift pump. Vane type pumps like the carter and cheaper Holley's will work for a short period of time but as soon as they lose their prime, the vanes score the chamber and it's all over.

Look at this pump --
Holley 12-150 150 GPH HP Fuel Pump - Holley Performance Products

It is a gerotor design and will work as a lift pump. Depending on your target HP level you would use either the 125 Gph or the 150 GPH unit.
The other pumps that work are positive displacement piston or diaphragm style..

To use your vane pump, it would need to be level with the bottom of the fuel cells but not above them.
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Old 8th July 2017, 11:38 PM   #50
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Re: p2348

Randy,

There is a lift pump that is before the swirl pot (also a Carter I believe) that Dennis put together. Does that change your impression? I asked Dennis for his recommendation and this was the pump he favored. With the lift pump down in the well (at the level of the fuel cell) there's really no room to put this pump down there as well.
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Old 9th July 2017, 12:02 AM   #51
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Re: p2348

Same setup on mine by Dennis with the swirl pot works great
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Old 9th July 2017, 01:50 AM   #52
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Re: p2348

Regarding the Holley gerotor pump I went thru 2 of those in short order. Shaft seal leaked both times. Holley can rebuild the seal, but I got fed up and went to a Carter. No problem in 3 years now.
The dry sump pulleys on your engine seem really far forward. They will clear the firewall?
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Old 9th July 2017, 06:39 AM   #53
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Re: p2348

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Same setup on mine by Dennis with the swirl pot works great
Sorry I misspoke and was talking the Carter pump. Both engines I've had used a conventional mechanical fuel pump. I think the Carter provides little if any head pressure to the mechanical FP so Randy's assertion is accurate.

I wondered the same thing regarding the crank pulley setup. There is not much room on the front side of the engine. I'm running a v-belt short water pump setup and still requires a cutout and bump on firewall.

When you get around to final assembly of thermostat housing, let me know. I can share my experience and maybe save you some time. There are a few things to consider that are not necessarily obvious.
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Old 9th July 2017, 08:42 AM   #54
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Re: p2348

I had the same concerns about the drive gear for the dry sump. That is the standard length "post" that the drive gear attaches to the crank pulley with. It's an aviaid product. As I look at some of the other builds using it, the drive gear is much closer to the crank pulley. I'm having about an inch or more cut off the end of the post to hopefully prevent any clearance issues.

Mike, I found the groove on the neck supplied fairly shallow and the thermostat doesn't seat into it fully. I used Permatex water pump gasket maker between the thermostat and the neck and a regular gasket between the thermostat and the intake manifold.
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Old 9th July 2017, 08:51 AM   #55
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Re: p2348

Regarding the pump, I'm not sure why Dennis spec'd the Carter but as a newbie I'll defer to his experience. I see Randy's point, hoping the lift (pre-swirlpot) pump keeps it from running dry. I've heard of issues with the Holley, both seals and other reliability problems. They're around $250. The Carter is less than $60. I think I'll stick with it and if it disintegrates I'll make a change. Good to hear Dave's experience has been positive. I used the rubber mount kit, we'll see how stable it is. If it looks like a bobblehead doll on meth at startup I'll get rid of it.

Mike/Dave: what did you use for supply and return coolant hoses to your engine, the ones supplied? What did you use to connect to the 2 rubber hoses seen in the pic under the passenger seat?
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Old 9th July 2017, 11:44 AM   #56
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Re: p2348

Dennis knows his stuff and I am not sure (other than price) why he would spec the Carter pump, but if it is in a siphon feed mount, it should work fine. Between the carter pump and holley pump, there is a very notable difference in sound. Good thing that you did an isolation mount on the Carter or the scream from it would easily pierce the firewall and your ear drums. The Holley HP pumps are not silent, but pretty close in comparison.
I've not yet had the experience in the failure of a Holley HP pump - although that day may yet be coming.
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Old 9th July 2017, 12:27 PM   #57
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Re: p2348

Quote:
Originally Posted by jammin man View Post
Mike/Dave: what did you use for supply and return coolant hoses to your engine, the ones supplied? What did you use to connect to the 2 rubber hoses seen in the pic under the passenger seat?
I used the hoses and pipes supplied, but you have RHD with different firewall holes. Also your dry sump pulleys and belt may dictate a custom arrangement.
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Old 9th July 2017, 01:30 PM   #58
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Re: p2348

Hoses were supplied but no tubes. I may go this route:

Spectre 6818: Steel-Flex Radiator Hose 1-3/4" diameter | JEGS

The hose is flexible and, once I have the engine in place, I can purchase the length I need and bend to fit.

Next problem is the alternator/AC mount. The 2 studs are 5/16" and the threads in the block are 3/8". I've found some thread inserts but they're a bit short (could put 2 end to end on the stud and then thread into the block). More importantly, the only inserts I can find are 5/16" inner and 1/2" outer.

This may be my best bet: Key Locking Thread Repair C-Kit Includes: 5/16-18 Heavy Duty Inserts, Tap, Drill & Installation Tool

Last edited by jammin man; 9th July 2017 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 20th July 2017, 08:25 AM   #59
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Re: p2348

Does anyone have a photo of Olthoff's serpentine belt system from the back side of the alternator? All I have is pics from the front and there is a bracket that attaches to the back of the alternator and (I believe) the engine block that I want to make sure I have oriented correctly.
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