Quaife and SubFrame Interference

Can someone please confirm that I have to modify the rear subframe in order to fit it over/around the Quaife gearbox? I believe I have to cut the top, horizontal crossbar away between the two rails. See pic.

I have measured the distance between the top and bottom crossbars and they are clearly too close together to clear the Quaife.

Thanks,
Tim
 

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You're right Tim you have to cut the top horizontal crossbar.

No choice.. It's impossible to install the ZF quaife otherwise.

OliveR
 
Tim don't forget to install the Quaife oil pump at the rear of the gearbox... or in 6500/7000 miles you'll have to replace the crown wheel + pinion (3500$)

I had the problem.... (thanks Quaife !)

OliveR
 
For added support and once you are cutting, you may want to add a lower cross member with a urethane trans mount on the clamshell support to support the transaxle. That way, it is not just hanging from the top. I don't have a Quaife but rather a ZF.....
 
Mark, do you have a photograph of your suggestion? I AM concerned about the stiffness of the sub-frame after I remove the cross piece.
 
Oliver, I appreciate your advice on the pump and recall you mentioning that before. You're the only one I have read to say that. I don't plan to track the car. Are you saying there is some kind of design flaw and the transaxle really needs the pump? I haven't read or heard anything to indicate the need. I'm just trying to understand.

Thank you.
 
Hi Tim,

For the crossbar that you're going to cut to install the ZFQ, I didn't add any additional support and nothing has moved since I've done it.

The rear frame just support the rear body which is not heavy and the luggage box (if you have them).

Concerning the oil pump on the ZFQ.. I use my car either on roads and on race tracks but I'm not hard with mechanical parts when driving.
My car has currently 15000 miles so as you can see I use it and don't let it in my garage (I drive it 3000/4000 miles / year since I bought it).
When I had the problem with the crown wheel and pinion damaged I called Quaife in England and they told me that it's a typical probem about lubrication as I don't have the oil pump... My mechanic told me the same thing.
I've drove the car 6000 miles since I replaced these 2 parts and when I disassembled again the gearbox to replace the 3rd synchro I've checked the crown wheel and pinion and all was in perfect condition (like new).

Driving your ZFQ without oil pump is a risk that could cost much money to repair (3500$ for parts not including labor...).

OliveR
 
That's interesting insight, OliveR. When I spoke with the parts guy at Hillbank Motorsports (headquarters of Superformance), he hadn't even heard that the Quaife has an available pump. I found that a little odd, if in fact the pump was recommended for our use in these cars.

Tim
 
That's interesting insight, OliveR. When I spoke with the parts guy at Hillbank Motorsports (headquarters of Superformance), he hadn't even heard that the Quaife has an available pump. I found that a little odd, if in fact the pump was recommended for our use in these cars.

Tim

Humm I went to Irvine in 2014 and met all the team of Hillbank.

I understood that they well know selling cars... but technically ????

If you want call Geoff Booth or Simon McCann at Quaife in England (00 44 1732 741144) they work at the Technical Sales and can give you details/info about the need of the gearbox oil.

OliveR
 
Tim, I don't have a decent picture of what I did but I can effectively describe it to you. I see the problem you are having that will require you cutting the top brace to clear the Quaife. I ran a 1/4" thick plate from side to side underneath the tail of the transaxle and welded it to the two tubes going towards the back of the car. I then created a bracket that made a u shape underneath and up each side of the transaxle. Between those two pieces of steel, I installed an Energy Suspension urethane mount. Olthoff does this on his race cars. On the top between the shock towers, I have a billet aluminum cross member to hang the transaxle from. As for the clamshell support, I stiffened it by putting gussets in the corners where it bolts to the rear sub frame and on my Mark 2, I reconfigured the strut that goes along the inner side of the luggage box to be straight and still left the one that has the curves. I also used Energy suspension urethane engine mounts.
 
Tim,

I am running a lot of weight in the back of the car because my motor is longer than most to the extent that the back of my gear box is about an inch from the end of the clamshell support. I fee confident that the clamshell support is rigid enough and your reconfiguration coupled with what I did will be up to the task. Oliver's point about the structure not carrying much weight is correct, but I needed to use the structure to pick up some of the load so that is why I reinforced it. I hope that helps.
 
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