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Old Yesterday, 11:21 PM   #601
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blueovalz
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Re: M20 Dreaming

Quote:
Originally Posted by leonmac View Post
Thanks Terry, Heat hasn't been an issue so far but I will put a frame around the molds so they can sit on the floor and stay square when I lay up the body panels. I have put strengtheners the length of the fin and through the length of the fender so that should keep that stiff I'll put some photos up and you guys can tell me if I'm on the right track.
More interested to know how thick the mold needs to be, I only have 225g shopped strand and 12 layers thick at this point, How much more do I need to go???
We go by ounce (e.g. 2 ounce mat), so 225g would seem to be some pretty heavy stuff, and at 12 layers, I would think you've got a pretty rigid mold. Guessing your somewhere in the 10-12mm range on thickness, which would be pretty rigid, especially with the proper bracing/reinforcement.
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Old Today, 12:58 AM   #602
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jac mac
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Re: M20 Dreaming

IIRC its not that simple, apparently 2oz might be per sq foot for csm & per yard for weave in USA whereas 225g is per sq meter everywhere else.
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Old Today, 03:55 AM   #603
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russell keach
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Re: M20 Dreaming

Leon
As per my phone call, I use scales and weigh out my resin in yoghurt containers....eat lotsa yoghurt. That way you know exactly what you are dealing with and I always weigh out the same amount, often have a row of pre weighed amounts and then I use a syringe to measure out the hardner exactly. The mold is constructed mainly with 3 layers of 450gram chopped strand mat and I put on a fourth layer with the white 2 or 3mm filler matt that really holds its shape. Yes outside edges are tricky so always pre wet them and tear up some cloth, you can even fold it as encouragment, do these tight spots first when you start molding so that by the time you get there with the bulk sheeting, those corners have really gone jelly like and you will have whacked them into submission a few times. When you are doing tight corners on the final mold, using the very thin tissue cloth first, even chuck a few layers of that in because it will go into impossibly tight corners. Roll your first laminate with the grooved roller and then use a 100mm fluffy roller for the resin application and cloth placement as it melds the cloth together. Tear the cloth sheets when making the final body patterns and the joins will also be invisable. I have put small returns on most of the mold to add a little strength to the shape along with strengthening gussets and a steel tube across the top of the gaurds. There is also quite a lot of fuss in doing gel coat, and waiting for the correct cure before laminating. The idea of the gel coat is to prevent print thru of the cloth. I feel that as we are going to epoxy under coat before we do any paint work, why not just use thin tissue cloth first and then lay in the chopped strand matt. My first car was done this way and the surface is perfect with no print thru...certainly a lot less hassle.
When the temp is lower, correct hardener ratio is very important, along with only mixing smaller quantities 3 to 400 grams as there is less heat build up in the bulk mixed. If it starts to gel up whilst laminating, just spread it out on you laminating area and you can still work it for a lot longer. Do not crank up the heat until you have completed your laminating.
Hope that`s some help.
Attached Thumbnails
M20 Dreaming-dscn3740-jpg   M20 Dreaming-dscn3742-jpg   M20 Dreaming-dscn3739-jpg   M20 Dreaming-dscn3607-jpg  
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Old Today, 04:00 AM   #604
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russell keach
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Re: M20 Dreaming

Leon
As per my phone call, I use scales and weigh out my resin in yoghurt containers....eat lotsa yoghurt. That way you know exactly what you are dealing with and I always weigh out the same amount, often have a row of pre weighed amounts and the I use a syringe to measure out the hardner exactly. The mold is constructed mainly with 3 layers of 450gram chopped strand mat and put on a fourth layer with the white 2 or 3mm filler matt that really holds its shape. Yes outside edges are tricky so always pre wet and tear up some cloth and you can even fold it as encouragment, do these tight spots first when you start molding so that by the time you get there with the bulk sheeting, those corners have really gone jelly like and you will have whacked them into submission a few times. When you are doing tight corners on the final mold, using the very thin tissue cloth first, even chuck a few layers of that in because it will go into impossibly tight corners. Roll you first with the grooved roller and then use a 100mm fluffy roller for the resin application as it melds the cloth together. Tear the cloth sheets when making the final body and the joins will also be invisable. I have put small returns on most of the mold to add a little strength to the shape along with strengthening gussets and a steel tube across the top of the gaurds. There is also quite a lot of fuss in doing gel coat, and waiting for the correct cure before laminating. The idea of the gel coat is to prevent print thru of the cloth. I feel that as we are going to epoxy under coat before we do any paint work, why not just use thin tissue cloth first and the lay in the chopped strand matt. My first car was done this way and the surface is perfect with no print thru...certainly a lot less hassle.
When the temp is lower, correct hardener ration is very important, along with only mixing smaller quantities 3 to 400 grams as there is less heat build up in the bulk mixed. If it starts to gel up whilst laminating, just spread it out on you laminating area and you can still work it for a lot longer. Do not crank up the heat until you have completed your laminating.
Hope that`s some help.
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