Better Eldo/Toro approach?

[Forrest McCanless]

New here; want to establish my street cred. This pix are of an initial CAD model I've done to install a Caddy or BBC and Eldo/Toro TM-425 in my SBC/'vair Kelmark. I've looked at the various ways of getting weight forward, but none seemed particularly great.

The diff is removed, then a custom output shaft and plate is made. Short telescoping driveshaft goes back to a 4-link-suspended Winters Quick Change. I'm still noodling on the best way for axle transverse location - Watts or Woblink or Mumford.

Please note - this concept is supposed to be a '70s kit-car style build - what would have been thought of while I was in high school - not what a modern approach would be!

Forrest

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Welcome to the site. Interesting approach to pushing the weight further forward.

 

[Bob]

A KELMARK GT??
Haven't seen one of those since the 70's.
I recall seeing in a magazine (Hot Rod??) that Kelmark installled an aluminum 427 Chevy with injector stacks out of a CanAm car in one for demo purposes. I'm sure it used the Eldo/Toronado transaxle.
Looked mean as all hell. Wish I could find a photo of it.

Sorry, can't offer any ideas for your weight distribution problem.

 

[Leon]

Is this the car you are talking about, In the whole advert it says it is power by a Alloy ZL1 with Kinsler Injection, I imagine it was a bit of a hand full. In relation to you lay out, have you considered going the same route as the Lambo Contash (i know thats not spelt right) they had the engine/trans as per normal but faced it with the trans coming forward into the cabin and then used a drop gear to run the drive shaft back to the diff, This would be much simpler for gear linkage's and use less room and I think require less engineering than what you are currently thinking of, just my thoughts, Cheers Leon

 

[Leon]

Just having another look at your rear suspension lay out, If you go with the top links coming straight down the sides and triangulate the bottom links under or real close to the sump you won't need to use a watts or any kind of "panhard" rod to control your side movement. Use shorter trailing arms and triangulate at the middle of the engine, say just in front of the oil pan drop, that way it won't interfere with your trans if you have it on the side. another advantage you gain is the travel of the axle is straight up and down (you do get that with a watts) but a plain pan hard has an arc travel and a watts has a lot of parts and weight, I'm not familier with "Woblink or Mumford" again just my take on things, there are lots of guys on here that have far more knowledge than I. Cheers Leon.

 

[Bob]

Leon, that's the one.
The magazine it was featured in had photos of it with the rear clip off showing the engine and transaxle setup. As I rememebr it was billed as the first 200 MPH kitcar.
Thanks for finding it.

 

[Forrest McCanless]

Yes - I have that article from cutting it out in '77 in high school. I finally found a nice period Kelmark about seven years ago from the original builder. I've made lots of mods (tilt front and rear, 180° headers, modified rear suspension to run 335s, ets), but it needs more power!

Forrest