Recent content by MrNoo

Very interesting! A lot of work but I would just say it's 100% easier polishing the buck before you take the mold than taking the mould and then polishing that. I know as have done it on my build, rubbed a part down with 400, waxed and then took the mould. I only did it once!!

This is what I used, it is important to let the polished wax coat fully harden off before applying your next coat, so take your time building the layers up. I would leave it 6-12hrs before I gave it the next coat (but I wasn't in a hurry!) I, like you, had parts of the buck come away with the...

Hi Clayton, The chassis has been shot blasted and epoxy primed/painted and I am on final assembly, the sills/front clam and most inner panels have been bonded in place, have done a mould for the door closing panels and have hinged/fitted one door, I am happy with the fit. Fuel tank, pump...

So we'll have to meet Tier 6 regs then with old engines, can't see that happening. Not good at all for the homebuilders or kit car industry. We will be forced to use more modern engines (which I suppose is fine) but some of these modern Direct Injection engines etc will cost a lot to get running...

I would be inclined to take moulds from what you have, that way you can repeat/remake bodies for others (they will find you!!) and also you will be able to make parts exactly how you want them, i.e. thicker/thinner, bit of strengthening here or there. Where as if you just glass over what you...

Hi Mike, I PM'd you, not sure if you got it? I assume you are referring about the cast alloy ones, I still have them.

And finally where I am today, just having put the rear shocks and springs in situ and all the rear suspension on, it even moves!!!! As I found out as the thing nearly rolled off the steel level framework!!! Anyway, none of this would have been possible to achieve without the dedicated time and...

Eventually the uprights came back and I had amassed all the parts needed to build them up. [/url]Rear Upright by ChrisHE8, on Flickr[/IMG] As you can imagine I had to re-do all the suspension mounts again, thoughtfully re-designed also but where my chassis is effectively an old one, certain...

Well at long last an update for you all, I do apologize for for such a delay. I will describe what we have done to the car since my last post and chuck a few pictures in and then probably follow this up with a couple more posts as all the modifications took place. Firstly I received a very...

Still a work in progress Mike but the end is nearly in sight, we have re-done the suspension/uprights and rear chassis frame but I will do an update very soon!

Yes, this does happen, I have found that you need to let the paint fully cure and this seems to stop it happening. I have also found that on quite "tricky" parts, paint and then sand wet with 1200 grit paper, this seems to give the wax something to key to, have had good results but then you...

Mike re coatings prior to taking a mould, I used 2k paint on mine and then plenty of wax. This always has given me a good mould surface. I have tried just using 2k primer, flatted and then polished up with a mop to a good finish but it never seems to release as nicely as it does with 2k paint...

Morning all, on the scrounge!! Does anyone know or have any Geze catches they would be willing to sell or point me in the right direction to obtain some? I have scoured the vintage ski sections of E-bay, tried Gunner (no reply) and I did have a lead on a chap in the States who used to make them...

Yes, you could very easily! Graham's car has an air cooled flat 6 in it, I am putting a 3.4ltr Direct Injection flat 6 in mine (from a Cayman S)and transaxle too. I think with an air cooled engine you'd be looking at using a G50 transaxle. You could fit any engine in to be honest as there is a...

Almost one more here, hope to have mine fired up this Spring all being well.