Recent content by muttsjet

Installed braided stainless steel brake and clutch lines from double junction (top clutch, bottom brakes) to the left at the bottom of clutch pedal. Fittings were entertaining. At this double junction, installed two male 3an to male M10 x 1.0 inverted flare (convex cone at bottom of fitting)...

wrt to fittings above, anyone already know the size/thread of the fittings attached to the clutch and brake lines running along the drivers seat in the pictures?

Thanx for data on braided lines rubbing...will watch for that during install... Looks like it is the top steel line after all that is the clutch line...will remove hard line at the fittings on either end...measure the fittings and find a braided steel hyd line with appropriate size male...

Will verify, but looks like the bottom/lower of the two metal hyd lines belongs to the clutch. Assuming it's the one leaking, seems to me simply replacing that line with a braided stainless steel line would be the way to go.

1st pic dry coming from pedals. 2nd pic dry entering bulkhead. Leak somewhere in last three pics. Will refill res and pump clutch pedal to see if I can identify exactly where leak is.

Well, bled clutch with Motive pressure bleeder, and it worked. Must have been air in the line...right? Nope, too easy. Got car up and running and drove it around a bit. When I cranked it to put into garage, pedal went dead. Bled it again and was able to get about halfway into garage when it...

Disregard question on what's below cans, spatially, it appears no way to get to masters from there. Looks like taking the a/c, plate off again.

After taking motive bleeder hose off the Girling brake fluid can that SPF uses, the can was spilling fluid over the top of the can. It was as if the can was blocked. Has anyone had an instance where Girling can became blocked? Haven't ever removed plate that the brake and clutch fluid cans are...

Car's been sitting awhile due to dead clutch issue (no leaks anywhere, but pedal pressure gone). Ultimately, power motive bleed of clutch and fluid change got the clutch back up and running. Decided since I had nose off after working in pedal area, I'd change the brake fluid and bleed the...

That's exactly what happened with mine. Were you able to get to and replace master from above without loosening the entire pedal assembly?

Clutch pedal totally dead (happened real fast) with no leaks at all around clutch slave or along clutch line to master (as far as I could tell). Clutch reservoir checked and was almost empty. So, before I start pulling apart A/C housing to get to pedal assembly (note: have changed throttle...

Absolutely!

Shelby's and friend ready for summer. GT40 cranked right up but needed a little increase in idle. Ready to run distributor installed during the winter works well.

May have at least partially answered my own question. Found a thread where Jay Cushman indicated the aluminum heads I mention were for Cobras whereas the C6 aluminum heads were for the GT-40s. However, Mustangtek site shows the heads I mention were for the Shelby GT-40 program, but who knows...

Had oil blowing out the valve cover gaskets on my Contemporary Cobra on to #5 and #1 plugs. So, I decided to clean the mess up, and replaced the valve cover gaskets on both sides. I had been told by the person who sold me the Cobra that his father, a racer, had bought the motor (have receipt)...