Pat Buckley
GT40s Supporter
Did the temp come back down to 190?
Loss of Coolant and Running Hot - Cure
- Thread starter Barrett-Jackson-GT-40
- Start date
Pat Buckley
GT40s Supporter
And you said the coolant level didn't drop?
Pat:
Took a couple of thirty mile drives this evening. I drove it like a Buick for the first drive. Ryan drove it like, well, like a teenager with his dad in the car for the second drive. A bit more brisk, shall we say but nothing crazy.
Temp held steady around 190 for more than 30 miles of highway and interstate driving - twice. Then as we were coming home driving through town, below 30 mph, stop lights, for a couple of miles, it inched its way up to 210 or so. Air temp of 90 degrees. AC running. Did not lose a drop of coolant. Expansion tank level rises when its hot and drops when it cools.
Radiator fans kick on right on schedule and runs continously since the AC was on.
I wonder if we are searching for a problem where none exists. 90 degrees, AC running. Perhaps we can blame it on global warming?
Took a couple of thirty mile drives this evening. I drove it like a Buick for the first drive. Ryan drove it like, well, like a teenager with his dad in the car for the second drive. A bit more brisk, shall we say but nothing crazy.
Temp held steady around 190 for more than 30 miles of highway and interstate driving - twice. Then as we were coming home driving through town, below 30 mph, stop lights, for a couple of miles, it inched its way up to 210 or so. Air temp of 90 degrees. AC running. Did not lose a drop of coolant. Expansion tank level rises when its hot and drops when it cools.
Radiator fans kick on right on schedule and runs continously since the AC was on.
I wonder if we are searching for a problem where none exists. 90 degrees, AC running. Perhaps we can blame it on global warming?
Hi Chuck,
It doesn't sound like you have any cooling problems in normal driving. Cavitation and the sucking flat of the lower rad hose (inlet to the water pump) only occurs at sustained high RPM and occasionally when stomping on it, really accelerating hard. Still best to have the coil reinforcement in the lower hose to be safe.
As for 210 with the A/C on, in traffic, 90 outside, that's good performance, nothing to worry about. You can always flick on the fan overide to put the rad fans on before the sensor temp kicks too.
It's generally recognized below 30mph the rad fans will pull more air than areodynamic pressure in front of the car. So around town or on the highway in someones draft, you might as well put the fans on early.
Have fun out there!
Cheers
It doesn't sound like you have any cooling problems in normal driving. Cavitation and the sucking flat of the lower rad hose (inlet to the water pump) only occurs at sustained high RPM and occasionally when stomping on it, really accelerating hard. Still best to have the coil reinforcement in the lower hose to be safe.
As for 210 with the A/C on, in traffic, 90 outside, that's good performance, nothing to worry about. You can always flick on the fan overide to put the rad fans on before the sensor temp kicks too.
It's generally recognized below 30mph the rad fans will pull more air than areodynamic pressure in front of the car. So around town or on the highway in someones draft, you might as well put the fans on early.
Have fun out there!
Cheers
Ian:
Thanks. Sometimes we go looking for issues where none exist. Nice to know that is a non issue.
Now if I could do something to get rid of the heat build up under the rear clip that makes the fiberglass feel like putty. Especially after shut down on a hot day when lifting the clip just isn't practical . . . . . always something !
Thanks. Sometimes we go looking for issues where none exist. Nice to know that is a non issue.
Now if I could do something to get rid of the heat build up under the rear clip that makes the fiberglass feel like putty. Especially after shut down on a hot day when lifting the clip just isn't practical . . . . . always something !
I've seen photos where MKII owners have mounted electric exhaust fans at the rear of the car, to both sides of the area where the exhaust exits. I know you drive a MKI....there are "grills" there that might be useful for that, I'd suppose.
I'd suppose it might help with the "heat soak" from the engine.
Doug
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
There's a great picture in one of the GT40 books of a Mk II (in the day) from the front with the rear clip up. Covering most of the underside of the clip is clearly recogizabe "Johns Manville" fiberglas insulation.
See this thread for some good ideas:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/30983-engine-bay-heat.html
Alan, Doug:
Good thoughts, considering both. The idea of a couple of fans blowing up from the sponson opening is simple and might work. We are trying to avoid large fans at the rear vent openings if possible. May also explore an aluminum heat shield over the entire area above the engine with an air space, covered with the usual reflective insulation.
Of course if it weren't in the mid ninties with humidity to match things might be running a bit cooler . . . .
Thanks
Good thoughts, considering both. The idea of a couple of fans blowing up from the sponson opening is simple and might work. We are trying to avoid large fans at the rear vent openings if possible. May also explore an aluminum heat shield over the entire area above the engine with an air space, covered with the usual reflective insulation.
Of course if it weren't in the mid ninties with humidity to match things might be running a bit cooler . . . .
Thanks
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
I fitted 2 of these in the Dax (One either side)
Marine boat bilge air blower fan 4 inch in line NEW 2pc: eBay Motors (item 310237103129 end time Aug-03-10 21:22:58 PDT)
I put them on top of the side sill angled slightly inwards so "blow" against the blocl exhaust etc.
They are rated at 250cfm and I reconed they would move all the air under the clip many times a minute (Never did the calc but calculate the vilume inside the clip and subtract the volume of engine gearbox tyres and exhaust and you're not left with much!)
Result is good (other than noise)
In traffic the fiberglass bulkhead would get so hot you could not hold your hand on it
After about a minute of the fans running you can hold your hand on the bulkhead - another couple of minutes and the cabin temp also seems to drop
Ian
Marine boat bilge air blower fan 4 inch in line NEW 2pc: eBay Motors (item 310237103129 end time Aug-03-10 21:22:58 PDT)
I put them on top of the side sill angled slightly inwards so "blow" against the blocl exhaust etc.
They are rated at 250cfm and I reconed they would move all the air under the clip many times a minute (Never did the calc but calculate the vilume inside the clip and subtract the volume of engine gearbox tyres and exhaust and you're not left with much!)
Result is good (other than noise)
In traffic the fiberglass bulkhead would get so hot you could not hold your hand on it
After about a minute of the fans running you can hold your hand on the bulkhead - another couple of minutes and the cabin temp also seems to drop
Ian
Dimi Terleckyj
Lifetime Supporter
One of the things that a lot of people make the mistake on with cooling is to allow the heat level to get high before switching on the fans.
Once the heat has reached a high level it is very difficult to get it to come down easily.
It is much better to get the fans to switch in earlier before the heat has risen to a high level.
In other words prevent the heat rise before it has a chance to get out of control.
The thermostat will not allow the motor to cool too far and also use a thermostat that opens earlier.
I run a 5.4lt Boss motor in my 40 and it comes with a thermostat that opens at 92'c which in the stock donor car is fine but in the 40 I had to go back to a thermostat that opens at 72'c and set the fans to come on earlier and so now the engine runs at a steady 80'c to 90'c and doesn't overheat.
Dimi
Once the heat has reached a high level it is very difficult to get it to come down easily.
It is much better to get the fans to switch in earlier before the heat has risen to a high level.
In other words prevent the heat rise before it has a chance to get out of control.
The thermostat will not allow the motor to cool too far and also use a thermostat that opens earlier.
I run a 5.4lt Boss motor in my 40 and it comes with a thermostat that opens at 92'c which in the stock donor car is fine but in the 40 I had to go back to a thermostat that opens at 72'c and set the fans to come on earlier and so now the engine runs at a steady 80'c to 90'c and doesn't overheat.
Dimi
