Recent content by jlwdvm

  1. J

    Active Power - New Owner?

    I had heard that the new owners were going to tweak the chassis a little. This is my 3rd car project, with my previous builds being frame-off street/track builds (1969 Firebird and a 1966 Mustang FB). I was so frustrated with this thing a few months ago that I actually put it up for sale! A...
  2. J

    Active Power - New Owner?

    I bought mine 18 months ago from Chris (the original owner). He had mine done in 6 months.
  3. J

    Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

    I am finding there are lots of things with the AP body that need to be re engineered!
  4. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Refitting the rockers…the underside of the lip will need to be worked down a little since it is now fatter than shipped due to the extra epoxy and 1708 layer. The alignment pins now sit below the top of the rocker. The receiver on the clam now dictates the panel gap. I came up with a simple way...
  5. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Rear curves in about 3/8”…front appears straight.
  6. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Correct, at least this side curves in at the rear tire end (I'll have to check the front tire end). I noticed this when I was trying to mark it to cut off the excess epoxy. I realized that the area over the frame will need to be straight, but the outside top of the rocker isn't.
  7. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Final trim isn’t done yet, but much better than before….since it will be visible when the rear clam is lifted.
  8. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    I’m pleased with how this turned out. Once it gets trimmed down evenly, it will cover the frame rail underneath.
  9. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Fortified epoxy and a layer of 1708. I’ll be able to trim down to 2 1/16” when I pull it off the mold.
  10. J

    David G 69 Gulf SPF build begins.

    What are your panel gaps set at? Those look great!
  11. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    It looks like a 3rd grader trimmed and installed my rockers prior to shipping. The top edge was terribly uneven, too narrow, and warped in the rear clam-spider area. In order to widen the tops, I thought it would be best to remove the warpage so that the extended edge would be as flat as...
  12. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    As delivered, the front clam locating pin would only be attached to the top of the rocker (1/8” of fiberglass). I decided to weld a mounting tab extension to the frame for a more ridged mount for the pin.
  13. J

    MDA body fitting questions...

    Fran at RCR explaining a few things that may apply.
  14. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    2nd side always goes faster and better. The 2” angle iron is used to establish a flat level surface the same width as the eventual gap.
  15. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    My OCD won’t tolerate this, so the rocker lip will be extended and flush with the frame. I’ll weld up the hole that AP used for the original locator pin. There may be a 1/16” close out panel in this area, like the one furnished for the door area over the gas tank. If I put them under the rocker...
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