Recent content by PhillipM

I made mine like you did 22.5 degree increments, I know what the centreline lengths are for each part so you just sum them up when you're done and tweak your straight sections as needed. For TIG I but up tight, no gap anywhere, mig I don't care so much an 1/8" gap is nothing if it needs to be...

The long boots are good if you're using a lot of plunge to. I can't use the aero boots for that reason.

For me, yes, I don't know about you guys, you might be okay - I give them a lot more abuse and have split stars before hence running the uprated ones.

I wouldn't touch the EMPI's. I had a set that were so badly made I took one look at them and returned them. I run GKN outers with 300M race cages and chromoly stars.

I've been looking at the Mclaren units lately, but I haven't found an off the shelf controller yet.

As everyone else said, use a tender spring, this is a standard thing for us rally guys - don't be tempted to run it, your suspension goes to completely unloaded more than you'd imagine even on the road. If you want to be really fancy you can use lockrings and secondary springs to set the point...

RBF600, I can't stand the slightly spongy pedal DOT5 gives and I don't like that it doesn't absorb water as any that gets into the system through the hoses and seals and breathers then just collects in the calipers as they're usually the lowest part.

Had the Tilton on for years, still going strong, no issues at all.

Honda engines are similar, this is the S2000 engine when I was mid rebuild, think it's fairly common for anything relatively high revving. They even have steel inserts cast into the aluminium ladder for local stiffness around the bearings.

I use Nord Locks all over the place on the racer, they're the only thing that reliably keeps the CV bolts tight, and I've tried a lot of threadlockers, threadlockers with schnorr washers, even bearing fit adhesives and primers. In the end I used to just retorque them every 20-30 miles. (yes...

As above, looking for anyone that either has an idea's, pointers or even a diff around for a UN transaxle. Basically I fitted an Elite plate diff but it lasted about 3 days and just grenaded itself and took the gearbox out with it - it just wasn't up to the job with the smaller spiders it has...

No, just filled 'em and left it at that.

As above they are worn - had the same issue with our UN5 once, just welded and refiled them, been great since.

The worst of it is if you have low traction and no diff and keep spinning one wheel up - you'll overheat the oil in the diff area very quickly indeed then. That's the way we munched a crownwheel because one wheel was spinning on grass.

I've never had that issue, are you sure you didn't just get a flawed fork? I've used it even with 2800lb clamping pressure plates, no problem.